Roller Nose Bars!

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Homelite Super 1050
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Homelite 1130G
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Another in Stihl mount. I've got a couple of these.
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I've got a 36er I just picked up for the 101 kart saw I'm building.
 
Great thread. I love the vintage bars. I have a nice 36''er on a Mall 1MG. what year did them come out with the sprocket nose bars?

I don't know the exact year sprocket noses were introduced. I would have to say in the early 1970's.

1974 was the last year in which roller nosed bars appeared in Oregon's catalog. Oregon did sell replacement rollers for a number of years after that. They offered a 2-7/8" for .058 & .063 gauge bars (as Ray mentioned), & a 2-1/2" for .050 & .058 gauge bars.

General Chain Bar Company also offered 2 different sizes of roller noses. There was a 2-3/4" for .058 & .063 gauge bars, & a 2-3/8" for .050 & .058 gauge bars.

Sabre manufactured 2 sizes of rollers. There was a 2-3/8" for .050 gauge, a 2-3/8" for .058 & .063 gauge, a 2" for .050 gauge, & a 2" for .058 & .063 gauge.

McCulloch rollers came in 2 sizes. A 2-7/8" for .058 & .063 gauges, & a 2-1/2" for .050 & .058 gauges.
 
Vince-

That timeline sounds about right. My dad went to work in the woods in '67 and he said there
were still a lot of hardnose bars on landings and in the woods, but him and my grandpa had
the roller nose bars on their big McCullochs. Hard noses were prevalent on landings at that time
because of the harsh, dirty conditions. They ran 1/2" pitch full-comp semi-chisel on the larger saws.
 
A few extra roller noses for hotsaw bars, 2 7/8"Oregon sold McCulloch, 2 3/4"Torringtons, 2 1/2" Oregon, and a couple of odd ball rollers. Torrington also made 2 3/4" flat tip, as seen on the double slotted rotax hotsaw bar.

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Dennis could you explain the what makes a good hotsaw bar and why. Are they factory bars or all custom built? that CR500 saw looks mean as hell. any videos of it in action?
 
Dennis could you explain the what makes a good hotsaw bar and why. Are they factory bars or all custom built? that CR500 saw looks mean as hell. any videos of it in action?


jeepy......You want belly in a hotsaw bar to make your chain climb, coming right off the sprocket. The heal of the bar has to have a smooth rising transistion and should be close as possible to the sprocket. This will take the snake type whip out of the chain and let it ride flatter on the rails. A hotsaw like a 500 has ton of torque and it will make a chain rise and whip if the bar doesn't have enough belly or not properly setup, which can end up with chain derailment........and you really don't want the chain flying off.....although I've flicked many a chain.......Hahahahahahaha! I'll post some video when I get a chance.
 
I guess they made roller nose bars in all sizes. Not just large ones.;) This is the only roller nose bar I have. Its a 17" bar on a Poulan 203, which is the same as, or what became the 306. I don't know who made them. It is stamped Poulan on the bar, and Torrington on the tip. I only use it for fun cookie cutting. Don't know how well they work under working conditions.
:cheers:
Gregg,

That's right Gregg. I have an unmarked 20" RN bar that looks just like what's on your Poulan 203. It came to me on a tired Homelite SXL12. Was wearing a loop of 3/8" safety chain! I also have a super short 15-16" Remington type RN bar that came to me on a McCulloch 250. Got a 30" Cannon .063G bar that I got with a Homelite XP1020, and a 31" Cannon .063G bar that I bought from an ebay seller for my large frame Macs. I have a 25" RN (currently wearing a loop of 7/16"-.063g) on my Mono/Wards WD-60. I'm hoping it's a 'universal mount' (haven't taken it off yet) that I can run on my large frame Homelites.

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Here's a cute little 12" Remington RN that's on my Remington SL-9/Wards Power Kraft 2.8. The bar and saw will be heading to the Great White North soon.

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This McCulloch Super Pro branded 28" RN came to me mounted on my McCulloch SP-81 (which is wearing the 32" sprocket tip in these pics). In the pics it's on my McCulloch PM700. It will get cleaned up a bit and saved for GTG's. I need to shoot some pics of the other RN bars I mentioned for this thread...
 
jeepy......You want belly in a hotsaw bar to make your chain climb, coming right off the sprocket. The heal of the bar has to have a smooth rising transistion and should be close as possible to the sprocket. This will take the snake type whip out of the chain and let it ride flatter on the rails. A hotsaw like a 500 has ton of torque and it will make a chain rise and whip if the bar doesn't have enough belly or not properly setup, which can end up with chain derailment........and you really don't want the chain flying off.....although I've flicked many a chain.......Hahahahahahaha! I'll post some video when I get a chance.

thanks for the info. I always assumed the belly was so you could run the chain really loose to reduce drag. what kind of RPMs are you running?
 
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