Rollomatic E bar jam

[Rockjock]

I have had this issue on a MS 170 and a MS 250. The 170 was cutting some sappy pine and they guy had cut some wood, out it down and when he picked up the saw it was locked tight. Cleaned the sprocket and he reported it never happened again. His chain was a little loose as well. The MS 250 came in on my day off and the sprocket was lucked up tight. Took some work to free it up and it too was used for cutting some sappy wood and I believe the chain was also loose. The bar was replaced under warranty, he was given one off the shelf and we were told to bin the bar and got a credit for the bar. The bar now resides on my 025 and works beautifully.

 

[leeper]

I also have had the roller tip on my sthil 18" ms250 bar lock up after running the saw with the tip burred in a large tree trunk which cost me an hour of cutting time to get it clean and moving free.
the tip hasent spread and barrings feel tight. sense there are no grease holes I lubed the tip with penetrating oil and then submerged the bar tip in 90w lucas gear oil until I could make it sing when sprayed with an air compressor.
It is a shame sthil dosent have grease holes in there laminated bars this makes them prone to
tip failure and wouldn’t cost but a few cents per bar to drill the holes.

 

[Philbert]

It is a shame sthil dosent have grease holes in there laminated bars this makes them prone to
tip failure and wouldn’t cost but a few cents per bar to drill the holes.

If you disassemble a STHIL guidebar you will find that there are thin, metal discs along both sides of the sprocket to reduce friction.These discs cannot be used with a lubrication hole.

It is not done to save money. A lubrication hole also would not force the debris out, since the bearings are surrounded by the sprocket or the center disc.

Philbert

 

[SCHallenger]

I recently had the same problem with MS261 (regular carb) & MS200 on the same day & in the same tree species which I think was ash. After getting them freed up, which took a lot of WD40 & some very hard rubbing of the sprocket nose on a log, I figured that I had not properly lubed the sprocket before cutting by running the chain a bit at a "fast idle" before starting to cut. When I followed this procedure, I had no more freeze-ups. This was the first & only time it has happened to me, & the MS261 has 30-35 tanks through it. Both oilers were turned up all the way. I also think that the Stihl oilers are a little too stingy.

 

[SCHallenger]

Fixing this issue is usually as simple as putting the chain on a log and pushing/pulling until it moves.

It wasn't that easy in my case. I had to remove the bar & give it several squirts with WD40 (see my post above) before I could even begin to make any headway.

 

[leeper]

thanks for the info on how the tip sprocket is assembled on a Sthil laminated bar philbert. have you noticed that there is no es bar with a replaceable tip made by Sthil for the ms250?
my next bar will be an Origon power-match with a replaceable tip and grease holes for the tip bearings.

 

[Philbert]

STIHL, Oregon, etc., sometimes make some repair parts for things that are not always easy to get. My STIHL has a shop rate of $75 per hour. So, if it takes them 20 minutes to repair a $40 bar, plus the $15 part . . . they are not going to stock those things. They might be available by special order if you do it yourself - your dealer might not even realize this and have to look it up! Same thing with Oregon, although, they publish info on how to do it on their 'pro' bars with 'non-replaceable' nose sections!

There are often replacement sprockets listed on eBay, but there are so many types that it is hard to know what will fit.



Philbert

 

[SCHallenger]

thanks for the info on how the tip sprocket is assembled on a Sthil laminated bar philbert. have you noticed that there is no es bar with a replaceable tip made by Sthil for the ms250?
my next bar will be an Origon power-match with a replaceable tip and grease holes for the tip bearings.

Based on this post & Philbert's very helpful information, I'm thinking Tsumura or Sugihara when the time comes for replacement. I do have a Tsumura 24in on my 562XP which has been trouble free, so far.

 

[7sleeper]

I am astonished no one has mentioned raker height sofar! If your rakers are not at the correct height, your chain will be making too much dust! And that is the problem! Just because a chain is brand new means NOTHING if it is at the right dimensions!

7

 

[Rockjock]

I am astonished no one has mentioned raker height sofar! If your rakers are not at the correct height, your chain will be making too much dust! And that is the problem! Just because a chain is brand new means NOTHING if it is at the right dimensions!

7

In my cases it was brand new Stihl chain, and the rakers were spot on. It was sappy wood and a loose chain that was the issue in my examples. As a note once I cleans the sprockets out, and the chains were done stretching no issues at all.