Running out of seasoned wood

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It's a boxwood stove. It'll burn anything, just a lot of it. Once you get the fire going.

Take your remaining best wood and split it small -- two, maybe three inches across. Stack it inside to finish force seasoning it. Use a few pieces to get the green stuff going. Bring in a couple days supply of green wood at a time...a couple days, a couple weeks won't make a difference once you get to splits that are the largest you can handle comfortably with one hand. Some scrap lumber for kindling to get the small splits going to get the big stuff going works really well too.

The stoves were never airtight to begin with. Go looking through photos of the Civilian Conservation Corps from the 1930s, you'll often see these stoves in the buildings -- burning wood they cut that year when they built the camp. With a short chimney, you don't get much of creosote build up because they're shoving a god awful amount of heat and air up the chimney so the creosote never gets a chance to condense out of the smoke.

Burning green wood became a major fire hazard with the airtight stoves of the 1970s that reduced the airflow and gave the smoke plenty of time to linger in the chimney as the fire smouldered away.

Since EPA stoves came out, the boxwoods legal to sell have been designed deliberately to use so much air they qualify as fireplaces and not woodstoves under the regulations.

When you can get ahead and have seasoned wood supply built up and can switch to an EPA stove, the improvement in efficiency should cut your wood useage in half, with longer burn times per load.
 
Has any one tested live, winter cut black ash with a MM? I've got 4 to cut next week and was wondering if I could split and stack in my furnace room or wait till next year to burn...

I haven't tested fresh cut ash, but I do know cut in the winter. split small to at most medium and allowed to season a week or so in a hot basement, it should work. Test a few loads like that first, if it is good, finish splitting and stack it in there.
 
The red oak splits I stacked next to the stove are pretty dry today, so I think I can keep going just rotating the wood into the shop as I use a stack. I still have a bit of the oak an hickory I split last year. Me and the X27 are doing our best to fill the wood rack up.

JT
 
SVK, if you can put a box fan on the stacks in your 95 degree furnace room I'd think you'd be good to go pretty quickly.
 
Has any one tested live, winter cut black ash with a MM?

This is gonna' come as a huge surprise to many... but, not all Ash is created equal.
Black Ash is likely the "wettest" of the Ash trees; live (green) cut Black Ash has a moisture content 'round 95%... about the same as American Elm.
Yeah, that's correct, Black Ash is damn wet stuff...
 
I talked to my business partner who is a native of this area and he said we have lots of white ash and even has a few growing in his back yard... do you think he will miss them? At least I can be guided like a blind person and put my hands on a couple then hit the woods looking for some.

JT
 
I talked to my business partner who is a native of this area and he said we have lots of white ash and even has a few growing in his back yard... do you think he will miss them? At least I can be guided like a blind person and put my hands on a couple then hit the woods looking for some.

JT

It will make it a lot easier for you. Get the good 3-D look at it, the bark is "neat" as in orderly neat.
 
This is gonna' come as a huge surprise to many... but, not all Ash is created equal.
Black Ash is likely the "wettest" of the Ash trees; live (green) cut Black Ash has a moisture content 'round 95%... about the same as American Elm.
Yeah, that's correct, Black Ash is damn wet stuff...

If thats the case you are cutting different black ash then me. I cut a live one this summer and split it three weeks later and it was already bone dry. This tree was 20' from the waterline and only about 2' above the water level so the roots definitely had plenty of moisture.

I'll be cutting 4 black ash next week and will have a better idea then.
 
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If thats the case you are cutting different black ash then me.

I've never cut a Black Ash in my life. I pretty much draw the line at American Elm and don't cut anything with lesser density (BTU's)... and I only cut the elm because it's already dead. That 95% moisture content comes from engineering handbooks... and most BTU charts (not that I believe them to be definitive sources of information) list Black Ash at something less than American Elm. And, every lumber chart I've seen that shows "green" weight vs. air dried and/or oven dried weight works out to right 'round 95% when ya' do the math... and, they show Black Ash to be less dense (lighter) then American Elm at any comparative moisture content. Black Ash is somewhat softer, lighter and wetter than Green Ash, and whole bunch more than White Ash... there's a damn good reason why one of it's other names is Water Ash‼

One more thing... cut "green", sitting in rounds for a mere three weeks, and bone dry??
If that's the case you are handling different bones then me. I don't care what sort of wood it was.
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I'd tell you that your sources were wrong but have no interest in turning this into another Whitespider peeing contest that runs for 50 pages. ;)

I'll agree that black ash is one of the lightest, lowest BTU hardwoods out there but it splits easy and is naturally very dry (I havent put a MM to it yet but I know you don't believe in those anyhow...)

Around these parts an oak tree big enough to cut is rare. So birch, red maple, a very few scattered elms, and black ash is basically the pecking order of firewood unless you want to burn boatloads of aspen.
 
“The United States Dept. of Agriculture – Forest Service – Forest Products Laboratory” puts out a publication named “Wood Handbook – Wood as an Engineering Material”. I forget how often it comes out, but because my paper copy is from the mid 90’s I search for a newer version… I found this 2010 version…

http://www.woodweb.com/Resources/wood_eng_handbook/wood_handbook_fpl_2010.pdf

At one time I had a link to I believe a 2011 (or maybe a 2012) version, but I can’t find it. I think the lab has been publishing it since the 1930’s if I remember correctly.
Anyway, download and save the PDF file it’s a handy reference to the properties of wood.


But … hey… I’m sure your non-scientific observations of moisture content in Black Ash are much more accurate than this lab (who, by-the-way, has been doing it for near 100 years).
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But hey, you can quote science in book form to back your opinion. On the other hand something that takes measurable data and creates a mathematical output like a moisture meter is snake oil and should be dismissed????
 
Well I tossed the last piece of last years firewood in the fire today. Nothing left but the red oak I split in Nov/Dec last year. The wood I stacked next to the stove a few weeks ago feels very dry and burns well. Need to get another stack in...

JT
 
Well it turns out I have white ash trees all over the place. My business partner who grew up in these woods pointed out a dozen to me today. I now have a positive ID on the white ash tree. I'll cut a few smaller ones down this weekend and split them up for fire starter. I brought home a white oak that fell over and should be pretty dry as all the bark had fallen off before the winds blew it over a few weeks ago.

JT
 
If you have a place to store the wood inside you can put a fan on it. That really helps lower the moisture content. You will hear it snap and see it crack as it dries out.
 
If you have a place to store the wood inside you can put a fan on it. That really helps lower the moisture content. You will hear it snap and see it crack as it dries out.
I have one of those loop things behind my stove and I'll put the ash in that. It should dry pretty fast in there.

JT
 

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