Sachs-Dolmar Chainsaw Identification

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Benji

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Hello everyone. New guy here just signed up today, and I was hoping to get some help identifying my late grandfathers chainsaw that has come into my possession. I have searched everywhere and come to the conclusion that it is missing its data plate. Im pretty sure its either a 116si or 120si just based off pictures I have seen and I think I can see whats left of a "SI" on the sticker. If someone could help I would appreciate it. I would like to restore it so I could use it again. I have gotten it to start and run shortly, but I had to use a cordless drill on the flywheel to get it to start. Also if anyone knows the compression it should have? I would like to check it as the engine seems to turn over a little too easily. Thanks for your time.
 

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Im sorry Rupedoggy i didn't clarify i cant find a serial number on this chainsaw anywhere unless i overlooked it somehow im pretty sure the data plate is missing unless this is the serial number?
 

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The serial number is stamped into the saw. It is never cast into a part. Look closely around the clutch side. I haven't messed with those for years but if I remember it was near the handle bar. If not there then look at the front. It is going to be on the case. Tell me the first three numbers.
 
Rupedoggy I looked over it again and still can’t seem to find the serial number I have seen a picture of a saw similar to this one that had a data plate riveted to the case between the handle and the clutch my saw has the rivets but is missing the data plate and Braintree the choke looks like a twist type it’s missing the actual handle for it unfortunately but I will post a picture of the choke at the carbureator.
 

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I went ahead and took the cylinder off and measured it and it came out to 49mm so I’m guessing it’s a 120si unless there is another saw that has a 49mm bore I also found that the piston skirt is broken could this be causing low compression?
 

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Indeed you have a 120SI, You the 49mm bore and the SI carb, The carb doesn't have
a choke. It is an enrichening valve that you turn with a lever that your missing. Those
are great saws. I have a few and use them for all my firewood cutting.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone guess I need to start looking for parts then
 
Whoever owned that saw originally sure got their money`s worth out of it. I have seen many with the totally worn out pistons in them, skirts worn razor thin on many high hour SD saws.
 
Yes sir my grandfather used to do some logging, he worked in a saw mill pretty much his whole life. after he passed away my grandmother had us tear down his old shop and I found it in there. The cylinder head looks good so I think I’ll just throw a new piston in it and rebuild the carb then see if I can track down the missing parts for it maybe get rid of a few nuisance trees around the house in his honor lol I haven’t figured out where the pieces of the skirts went though I looked in the crankcase and I don’t see any big chunks in there I guess I’ll flush it with some brake cleaner before I start it up I was hoping to not have to pull the case apart
 
Yes sir my grandfather used to do some logging, he worked in a saw mill pretty much his whole life. after he passed away my grandmother had us tear down his old shop and I found it in there. The cylinder head looks good so I think I’ll just throw a new piston in it and rebuild the carb then see if I can track down the missing parts for it maybe get rid of a few nuisance trees around the house in his honor lol I haven’t figured out where the pieces of the skirts went though I looked in the crankcase and I don’t see any big chunks in there I guess I’ll flush it with some brake cleaner before I start it up I was hoping to not have to pull the case apart
Just flush it with regular fuel mix, oil the bottom end after to prevent rust forming after. I ran the SD saws for many years in the woods here, production cutting pulp and saw logs. The 120 was my favorite while my dad ran the 116 series saws.
 
Definitely do, make sure after cleaning the bottom end up to feel for any grittiness in the bearings, both radial and the big end crank bearing. That piston parts may have been ground up and entered the bearings, don`t take a chance if they do have rough or gritty spots. The seals can be popped out and flush the side bearings but if the big end bearing is affected its time to split the case and replace the crank.
 
Definitely do, make sure after cleaning the bottom end up to feel for any grittiness in the bearings, both radial and the big end crank bearing. That piston parts may have been ground up and entered the bearings, don`t take a chance if they do have rough or gritty spots. The seals can be popped out and flush the side bearings but if the big end bearing is affected its time to split the case and replace the crank.
Yeah I was going to ask about the rod and the rod bearing how the heck would I replace that do you have to replace the whole crank?
 
Ok so i got the new piston installed and the "choke" lever is on the way. I bought some gasket material today for the intake and exhaust because i couldn't find them in stock anywhere and i also bought a 20 gal parts cleaner today so hopefully next time y'all see the saw it will be squeaky clean i still need a pull cord cover or a new pull spring then i should be able to fire it up. pictures coming soon.
 
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