Hello to all,
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner been busy around the house.
The ignitions I use are from C & H Ignition, Unfortunately the guy (Bill Carpenter) an automobile mechanic who designed & started this business many years ago has retired, what a great guy! Someone did buy his company out so you can still buy his ignitions; I have not really had any correspondence with him yet-per website can give you some in-site.
About us - CH Ignitions
http://ch-ignitions.com/index.php?id_product=28&controller=product
I will try to explain the best I can, basically what I do with the engines via ignition is chuck up the chainsaw flywheel on an old Sachs crank shaft stub in my lathe, your end product will be a disc approx 3.5” in diameter. Needless to say you must be very careful doing this!!!! You must use a live center via tool post side for stability. Gingerly you must reach in with your tool post and bit and remove the inside area right before the cooling fins, it takes time and patience, depending on the engine sometimes I remove the fins first for clearance, I try to avoid the fin remove because it raises hell, like a card in the spokes of a bicycle. I do not cut into any of the center ferrous metal crank shaft mounting area were the aluminum is casted. I keep plunging into the inside fin/ magnet area until you here the magnets and counter balance scraping the tool bit, then move in towards the center to clear magnets etc.
When all said and done on the back of this disc a small rare earth magnet is epoxy mounted into a bore, on the crank case a mounting bracket is made to hold a hall sensor. I set the ignition timing at 28 ‘ BTDC, C&H ignitions have auto retarded timing, when you flip the prop the ignition retard to 0’ auto and is linear to advance with RPM to 28’, a good primed engine will start with half a flip of the prop. The ignition box is powered by a 4 cell-4.8v DC, 1000 mah minimum AA rechargeable battery. The ignition box is approx 2.5” x 2.5”x 1.25” and now I think smaller. The Ignition has 3 leads via spark plug boot & lead around 12” long , battery lead and 3 conductor Hall sensor connector of your choice. I’ve never tried it but you can probably get around 2 hours straight running time out of a battery.
I have thought of doing the same thing to one of my saws, the only problem I see is a saw needs a full flywheel with the OEM magnets via balance, pull start dogs etc, these magnets would have to be isolated not to interrupt the hall senor, or figure out timing using the OEM magnets new Hall sensor, also having clearance to mount the sensor, it can be done just takes time to figure out. Remember I do this with the crank case cut down to nothing, you can see the photo from my post page 157 #2344 I have plenty of room to work. Someone would have to figure out where to mount the battery, ignition box, switch etc. I would make the battery easily removed for quick replacement.
It can work, like any motor- that motor don't care were the spark is coming from, only cares about at the right time.
Hope this helps, anyone feel free to discuss, PM me and I will shoot you my phone #, I'm not to good at writing these forums,
Vinny,
