Short lived happiness with my MS360

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Don't just randomly starts replacing parts, even the rubber ones. Vac/pressure test and visually inspect all rubber parts. Replace what's needed. Any used saw should be gone through entirely and EVERYTHING inspected.

Agree. On used saws with OEM rubber lines I draw full vacuum and bend them all around. Then the same with pressure. If they are supple and hold P&V, I would rather leave them in than put in aftermarket rubber. Especially with Stihl dealers charging $15+ for fuel lines.
 
You don't need a tach,you may want one because it is another tool to use to get to the end of a successful rebuild/tune.
But you can do the same by ear.You just can't brag about RPM's without a tach

Bragging I will lol My MS241 topped out at 13,500 rpms
 
I'm of the subjective opinion that the original problem/scoring wasn't caused by leaking or lean mixture , but by the engine drawing in flaked off carbon from the exhaust port? as you can clearly see where carbon has flaked off, this is a very common fault on stihls, and I put it down to the restricted exhausts, I have started drilling the ends out of the baffle to allow a better air flow which in turn, I hope, will keep the cylinder exhaust port clean of carbon build up ? it does release extra power also, but you will need to richen up the mixture . CD
 
I'm of the subjective opinion that the original problem/scoring wasn't caused by leaking or lean mixture , but by the engine drawing in flaked off carbon from the exhaust port? as you can clearly see where carbon has flaked off, this is a very common fault on stihls, and I put it down to the restricted exhausts, I have started drilling the ends out of the baffle to allow a better air flow which in turn, I hope, will keep the cylinder exhaust port clean of carbon build up ? it does release extra power also, but you will need to richen up the mixture . CD


I hadn't given any thought to the exhaust port carbon.
 

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