I would not make a practice of free revving it without B&C.
I would not make a practice of free revving it without B&C.
Yes. It sounds like it's 4-stroking but post another video with the B&C installed.Ok, did you watch the video though?
Yes. It sounds like it's 4-stroking but post another video with the B&C installed.
Don't just randomly starts replacing parts, even the rubber ones. Vac/pressure test and visually inspect all rubber parts. Replace what's needed. Any used saw should be gone through entirely and EVERYTHING inspected.
You don't need a tach,you may want one because it is another tool to use to get to the end of a successful rebuild/tune.Then why did I need one?
Definitely 4-stroking.
No, don't even start the saw again until you've repaired the new damage and fixed whatever is wrong. No amount of scoring is ok. It creates high spots and is even more likely to score the next time you run it. You have an issue if it won't 4-stroke at 1 1/2 turns out.
This.
You don't need a tach,you may want one because it is another tool to use to get to the end of a successful rebuild/tune.
But you can do the same by ear.You just can't brag about RPM's without a tach
I'm of the subjective opinion that the original problem/scoring wasn't caused by leaking or lean mixture , but by the engine drawing in flaked off carbon from the exhaust port? as you can clearly see where carbon has flaked off, this is a very common fault on stihls, and I put it down to the restricted exhausts, I have started drilling the ends out of the baffle to allow a better air flow which in turn, I hope, will keep the cylinder exhaust port clean of carbon build up ? it does release extra power also, but you will need to richen up the mixture . CD
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