Now we all know a 3120 is the saw to have.
Should I keep my saw.
- Thread starter creami
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Echo CS-590 way before 260 Stihl. Waaaaay before. But then, it's your money.
It's not that the Stihl is bad, but that, as in so many cases, it's just way behind compeitors in value. Stihl dealers are no bargain either, at least anywhere around me.
It's not that the Stihl is bad, but that, as in so many cases, it's just way behind compeitors in value. Stihl dealers are no bargain either, at least anywhere around me.
you could just take the 400 back and trade it for a 590 ?
i'm running the 590 quite a bit lately -- when i say it has gobs of power i ain't comparing it to a micky-mouse 250 neither, or any of those "laughable" home owner box store specials--
my other saws are 440s, 460 jugged 044s and 372s!
the echo timber wolf 590 is the deal of the month/year for $399 retail --hell mine even came with a good oregon chain.
if the 400 ain't enough just get the 590 the 590 is a "real" pro saw not a "badge it up" special.
my 590 is bone stock except for a dealer carb tune , no muffler mod , no nothing and it has no cat -- darned thing starts every time on the 2nd pull --stone cold . one pull hot. the more i run it the more i like it--
get ya a 590 before the sale is over!!! i know mine has enough grunt for a 20" bar-- and it may have enough to pull a 24" --we shall see when my new chain comes in!!!
if echo ever turns out a 70+cc version based on the 590,600,620 --- i am in for one. and i'm a old school stihl 440 and husky 372XP di-hard.
yea echo makes some good saws. next new saw i buy will probably be an echo.
i'm running the 590 quite a bit lately -- when i say it has gobs of power i ain't comparing it to a micky-mouse 250 neither, or any of those "laughable" home owner box store specials--
my other saws are 440s, 460 jugged 044s and 372s!
the echo timber wolf 590 is the deal of the month/year for $399 retail --hell mine even came with a good oregon chain.
if the 400 ain't enough just get the 590 the 590 is a "real" pro saw not a "badge it up" special.
my 590 is bone stock except for a dealer carb tune , no muffler mod , no nothing and it has no cat -- darned thing starts every time on the 2nd pull --stone cold . one pull hot. the more i run it the more i like it--
get ya a 590 before the sale is over!!! i know mine has enough grunt for a 20" bar-- and it may have enough to pull a 24" --we shall see when my new chain comes in!!!
if echo ever turns out a 70+cc version based on the 590,600,620 --- i am in for one. and i'm a old school stihl 440 and husky 372XP di-hard.
yea echo makes some good saws. next new saw i buy will probably be an echo.
creami
ArboristSite Lurker
I am going to take the advise on just keeping the Echo CS400. I got it for 240.00 so I'm happy about that. The time you all have taken to help me is really nice. I would like to get the muffler mod done eventually. Maybe I could end up doing it myself if I keep looking at it. Lolz. I might just take you up on your offer Jughead.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
dam now i really want a 590.....
Here is a thread that has pictures to help you mod your muffler.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/echo-cs-400-mods.271355/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/echo-cs-400-mods.271355/
the cs400 is one my "gonna get one day" list-- darn 440s and 372xp keep getting tin the way--LOL!
i figure about the time i'm ready for a 'small" saw echo will come out with that 720P version of the 620p-- and that will get my little chainsaw wad of green--
but yea-- except for the cat-muffler and the safety chain there ain't nothing wrong with a cs400-- other that it ain't a 590,600 or 620P-- that is.
i figure about the time i'm ready for a 'small" saw echo will come out with that 720P version of the 620p-- and that will get my little chainsaw wad of green--
but yea-- except for the cat-muffler and the safety chain there ain't nothing wrong with a cs400-- other that it ain't a 590,600 or 620P-- that is.
Nothing wrong with that Echo. Stihl makes a good product. I don't personally trust the new fangled M-Tronic stuff but that's a different thread. For what you described for work you could get by with a craftsman chainsaw. I think a lot of your buyers remorse is why I had a hard time accepting that I like husqvarna, that is that stihl is synonymous with chainsaw. I bet if I say pick up truck you automatically think of a Chevy 1500 or a ford f150 even though there's nothing wrong with a ram.
Btw I think an Echo is far superior to the above mentioned craftsman saw.
creami
ArboristSite Lurker
What do you think would be the best 14" to 16" chain and bar if I wanted to replace the 18" bar that's on it at some point?
I wouldn't get rid of the 18" bar and chain but a 40cc saw is gonna big down a good bit with an 18 unless you go to a full skip chain. Drop back to a 16" keep it sharp and greasy and let it eat. I've never had a new saw but I've always heard they get better and better as they break in so you may want to keep the 18 on there, but me I kinda baby stuff, I'd put a 16 on.
As far as brand of chain Stihl chains are nice because they're pre stretched but I run oregon chains on my stuff because I get them for a real good deal. As for the bar oregon bars seem kinda heavy compared to my rollomatic but once again I get a good deal on them. I done think you need to fret over wheat her or not to get a replaceable sprocket bar or not for your uses just make sure it'll work properly on your saw.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
I was cutting wood last Saturday for our heating assistance program alongside an older guy (72 I think) with a brand new Echo. I was impressed at how well it was working for him. I took on the bigger and dirtier stuff with my Stihl 046 and he took care of the smaller trunks. So when we had a break, I started talking to him and told him how impressed I was with his saw....and it was a CS400. That saw was all he needed, and he was probably cutting rounds up maybe 12" with no issues. All morning.
I'm not familiar with Echo saws, but I have had a backpack blower and a strimmer from Echo for 17 years and they have never let me down.
I'm not familiar with Echo saws, but I have had a backpack blower and a strimmer from Echo for 17 years and they have never let me down.
Best chain will be a sharp one. No I'm not being a smart a$$. Get a jig or find someone to sharpen your chains. Try to have 3 chains for the length bar you will use the most. All kidding aside that 400 will be a fine saw for you.
I have both the cs400 and cs590 As well as a cs352.
They are all awesome saws.
However, when you get into any kind of hardwood in the 18 inch or bigger range, you really should use the cs590. This thing is well made, reasonably priced and works HARD.
The 400 is a great saw, and will do 22 inch oak, but not fast with the lopro chain.
I bought a cs590 because a job i was on was going to take all day if i didn't get a bigger saw with 3/8 full chain. Took me a couple hours to cut a few cords worth and load it.
I wouldnt hesitate to recommend echo saws over stihl.
These things start up right away, every time, are easy to modify and tune and are easy to work on. Very high quality at reasonable prices. the cs590 motor is made in japan 100%
They are all awesome saws.
However, when you get into any kind of hardwood in the 18 inch or bigger range, you really should use the cs590. This thing is well made, reasonably priced and works HARD.
The 400 is a great saw, and will do 22 inch oak, but not fast with the lopro chain.
I bought a cs590 because a job i was on was going to take all day if i didn't get a bigger saw with 3/8 full chain. Took me a couple hours to cut a few cords worth and load it.
I wouldnt hesitate to recommend echo saws over stihl.
These things start up right away, every time, are easy to modify and tune and are easy to work on. Very high quality at reasonable prices. the cs590 motor is made in japan 100%
creami
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, just an update. I've been cutting with my new saw and it's really nice. I have been doing tons of reading on Arboristsite as well. I am still working on getting my muffler somewhat modded, and my limiter caps pulled off to cut the tabs off of them so I can put them back on to be able to have full adjustment. I actually ended up taking it to a local guy here to see if he could help me but it didn't turn out exactly as I was hoping. He didn't pull the limiter tabs off. He just tuned it with the amount given without the limiter caps being pulled. He didn't use a tachometer, and he took the spark arrestor off, but he didn't modify the muffler at all. It was a little frustrating not getting what I asked for when he said he could.
I'm not trying to go to bananas with the muffler mod, but I do feel I would be able to cut a larger opening in the deflector to open it up a bit more. I am very tempted to take the limiter caps off myself with the drywall screw trick. I understand the principle of it, but I am scared I might mess it up some how.
It really sucks not knowing anyone around here that's able to do any of this.
I'm not trying to go to bananas with the muffler mod, but I do feel I would be able to cut a larger opening in the deflector to open it up a bit more. I am very tempted to take the limiter caps off myself with the drywall screw trick. I understand the principle of it, but I am scared I might mess it up some how.
It really sucks not knowing anyone around here that's able to do any of this.
Fear not! We have your back....
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Another method for cutting those tabs of is to use a knife or screwdriver heated up with a propane torch. Once dull red it will cut the tab right off of the side of the plastic limiter sleeve. Red fir's post shows you the basics. I use a dremel on mine with the little cutting discs, then clean up with the sanding drum. You can always post up and I and others I'm certain will help you thru the process. It is well worth the results. Your welcome to pm me as well.
P.S. dont use your gal's nice butter knifes, she will not appreciate it.
P.S. dont use your gal's nice butter knifes, she will not appreciate it.
I really think the best way to get the tabs off is to screw a drywall (or any screw really ) just partially into the limiter tab then pull that with pliers.
Hot knives around all that plastic on the saw sounds dangerous.
Also, remove the top and side covers to give yourself space. Makes things easier.
Hot knives around all that plastic on the saw sounds dangerous.
Also, remove the top and side covers to give yourself space. Makes things easier.
