Smoke Backdraft & Outside Air Kit

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deezle_dog

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On very windy days, my dad has trouble with smoke coming back into the house through the air intake on the stove. (Buck model 50 freestanding) I told him about doing an outside air kit, but after some reading, it seems the results are mixed and a lot of people say it reduces efficiency of the stove due to lower firebox temps. What would you recomend? Is there a termination cap that could help with this?

Thanks in advance,
Deezle
 
Air kits are usually not recommended, not even by the company who makes the stove unless their really needed.



Who installed the stove? Is the liner the proper size?





.
 
Is the chimney high enough above the peak? I believe 3' above any roofline 10' or closer is the "spec" but it can't hurt to be a little extra above that.
 
On very windy days, my dad has trouble with smoke coming back into the house through the air intake on the stove. (Buck model 50 freestanding) I told him about doing an outside air kit, but after some reading, it seems the results are mixed and a lot of people say it reduces efficiency of the stove due to lower firebox temps. What would you recomend? Is there a termination cap that could help with this?

Thanks in advance,
Deezle


Sounds to me like a chimney height issue.. but read on for ideas.

Here in CT the code calls for a 2-10 rule. You must be 2' higher than the point at which you are 10 feet from the roof on a horizontal plane. OR 2 feet above the roof ridge minimum if you cannot get the 10' on horizontal plane.

A higher chimney than that spec will create even better draft.


Other hints to check,

Smoke Problems
Here are some of the most common causes of smoke problems. Simply find the symptom that most fits your situation. It is possible, and even probable, your woodstove is suffering from more than one problem. Many times, where a single problem is not sufficient to cause backpuffing, several combined problems will. If this is the case, each problem will have to be tracked down and cured separately. Should none of these cures work, do not let the backpuffing continue! Contact a chimney sweep for further assistance in diagnosing the problem and prescribing the cure.

Problem: Constant Smoking
Solution A: If your woodstove is plagued by constant smoking, and no matter what you do seems to help, open a window as close to the woodstove as possible. If the smoking lessens or stops when the window is opened, the problem may be inadequate air supply or a pressure problem in the house. This may mean you'll need the window open when your stove is in use.

Solution B: Extinguish the fire and look for interior obstructions. A seldom used chimney may be clogged by a squirrel or bird nest. Soot and creosote can plug or restrict the airflow. If the chimney is older, the problem may be a structural failure. Fallen bricks, mortar, or metal may be obstructing the flue.

All obstructions must be removed. A blocked chimney is a fire hazard and should never be used until completely cleaned and inspected and repaired (if necessary) by your chimney sweep.

Solution C: If you have a woodstove and your chimney cap has a screen, there is a chance the screen is clogged with creosote. If this is the problem, consult your chimney sweep. It may mean there is a problem with your installation or that you need to change your woodburning habits.

Problem: Erratic Smoking
Solution A: What is the weather like outside? If the outside temperature is fairly close to the - inside temperature and there is a high pressure cell in the area, you probably don't have enough air pressure in the house to maintain a draft. The solution is to wait for the weather to change or address the pressure problems in your home.

Solution B: Check for the existence of competing vents. Kitchen and bathroom fans, furnace cold air returns, or chimneys for other stoves or fireplaces may overpower the chimney by drawing the air they need in through the chimney when you're wanting the smoke to go out.

If the house is two or more stories, hot air rising and escaping from the top story (due to an open window, poor insulation, major leaks, etc.) can reduce the air pressure of the ground floor and pull air in from the outside, even back down the chimney

Consult your chimney sweep for possible solutions.

Problem: Erratic Smoking With Hard-To Light Fires

Solution A: Check your wood. Excess moisture in the wood can be one problem. Dense woods which are hard to light can cause an initially cool fire and result in poor draft and excessive smoke.

Solution B: Check your damper opening or draft setting. An opening that is either too large or too small can result in incomplete combustion. Experiment to find the most effective settings.

While experimenting, don't make drastic changes. The key is consistency and moderation in making your adjustments. Make small adjustments spaced well apart. This gives the fire time to adapt to the new setting before you make any further adjustments.

Solution C: Analyze your start-up procedure. Pay special attention to loading patterns and the kindling used.

Problem: Smoking Occurs in Light Breezes

Solution: This may mean your chimney flue is too large for your woodstove. Or, your chimney may not be high enough. Consult your chimney sweep for help.

Problem: Smoking Occurs In Heavy Winds

Solution: Check for obstructions that might form a downdraft. Roof lines, trees, hills, or nearby structures can all cause downdraft problems. When the wind blows over and down around them, the downdraft simply blows down the flue, sending the smoke into the house. A chimney cap will reduce the effect of these near vertical blasts of wind. Your chimney sweep can supply a cap designed to cure the smoking problem.


Problem: Smoking Occurs When Stove Door Is Opened

Solution: This is most often cured by simply opening the doors very slowly, allowing the airflow to adjust in the firebox. Opening the draft control several minutes prior to opening the doors will raise the temperature and eliminate a lot of the smoke, reducing chances of backpuffing when the door is opened.

Problem: Smoking Occurs When Household Doors Are Opened

Solution: A household door opened or closed too rapidly can result in a change in your home's air pressure, causing the draft to briefly stop or even reverse. This is more often a problem with fireplaces than with woodstoves. A temporary solution would be to use hydraulic door closers.

Another problem can result from inward opening doors fanning the air, resulting in momentary backpuffing. A high-backed chair or screen placed between the door and wood burner may cure this problem. Check with your chimney sweep for a permanent solution.

http://www.safesidechimney.com/woodstove.htm#Anchor-TROUBLESHOOTING-37516

Hope this helps a bit.
 
Last edited:
Thanks to all for the replies. I am thinking that Dads chimney is not tall enough. I think if he was to check the 10-2 rule, it would be several feet low. The chimney is masonary, and before he would have it raised, he would stop burning wood. Is there a cap he can add that would help? I think his has just a simple cap with a screen right now and he keeps it all clean.

Thanks,
Deezle
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I am thinking that Dads chimney is not tall enough. I think if he was to check the 10-2 rule, it would be several feet low. The chimney is masonary, and before he would have it raised, he would stop burning wood. Is there a cap he can add that would help? I think his has just a simple cap with a screen right now and he keeps it all clean.

Thanks,
Deezle

One thing for him to consider is if he has a furnace hooked to that same chimney for use when the woodstove isn't burning or hot water. A wood stove needs it's own flue, you cannot and must not connect a woodstove or any other appliance to a flue that is used by a furnace as it will affect the draft for the furnace also causing an extemely dangerous condition that may allow carbon monoxide to back draft into the house potentially causing sickness and/or death in sufficient quantities. If this is the case stop using that wood stove right now.
If it is on it's own flue and it does not reach these requirements then that chimney must be extended as a wood stove can do the same thing. The situation must be corrected to be safe. as far as extending a masonry chimney, I am not sure if a pipe can be added safely, I have in fact seen this done, but how safe it is would be the question here. The right way would be to have the chimney re-topped.

More reading for you, please read before your father takes any chances as it is not worth a life to burn wood for heat.

http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/indoorair/co/index.html

hope this helps you.
 
Does your chimney have a properly sized liner?




Im only asking to try and help.


.

As far as proper size, I think it is OK. It is a masonary chimney that is lined with flue tiles and the only thing that goes to it is the stove.

In relation to the 10-2 rule, there is a serious problem. If you come down 2 feet from the top, and go horizontally toward the roof, you will hit the roof in a couple feet or less. I talked to Dad about that, and it seemed that knocking the top off the chimney, and building it up isn't out of the question.

Thank you for your help,
Deezle
 
As far as proper size, I think it is OK. It is a masonary chimney that is lined with flue tiles and the only thing that goes to it is the stove.

In relation to the 10-2 rule, there is a serious problem. If you come down 2 feet from the top, and go horizontally toward the roof, you will hit the roof in a couple feet or less. I talked to Dad about that, and it seemed that knocking the top off the chimney, and building it up isn't out of the question.

Thank you for your help,
Deezle


That would most likely be your problem.. the wind coming down the roof line that close to the chimney causes the issues...
 
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