Yeah many of the group III oils were very good , just no additive package benefit . Not a biggy if your service your engines accordingly . I have used Yamalube , its been around forever in one form or another it has evolved to a very respected recreational vehicle oil that is often used also in competition usage . I have buddy that has 70 's vintage Dt-1 & Big Bear Scrambler Twin , Yamalube from day one .
All modern two cycle oils have an additive package. Not so back in the day of Castrol R30 and the like, but that was 50 years ago.
Yeah , that's about the time I was referring to lmao . Remember the Lawnboy & TCW-3 & M-Series conversation brother !
More correctly , all Modern FD Jaso rated oils have additive packages !
And TCW3, FC, FB, TC, etc. Litteraly every two cycle oil for sale today has additives and its been that way for quit a few decades.
Castrol or motomaster should be fine for you.
Yes i just ordered 24 bottles of LB oil for the lawn boys. The new formulation burns the best and it is nice and clean.
Yeah , I'am referring to newer low smoke / odour dispersent & detergency packages & anti oxidizer advanced packages . Not the basic low ash & viscosity modifier packages of the FB/ FC oils . Group III oils although extremely refined to the point of being "synthetic" still smoke & contribute to some carbon & residue . Anyhow that's my opinion , I truly believe much of the oil related issues described is a combination of poor fuel quality and improper tuning to the mix & intended use or performance ( recreational vs extreme service - racing) of the engine .
Ran Castrol Super 2T- Injector in my Kawasaki Mach-III Triple in 1971 . Lots of smoke ! Never run any Motomaster product but as a FC rated oil it may be close to Shell 2T oil , which is a quality product .I am happy with my current Interceptor in my recreational Bike & Sled applications , tried & proven & clean !
Wow , your good to go for a few yrs lol. Good oil for any OMC Product . I forget , what Series LB are you still mowing with ?
Smoke and odor is reduced by substitution of PIB from bright stock. Helps smell as well, but much of the nasty smell from two cycle oils comes from the amine used in the ashless dispersent technology used in marine oils and Stihl Ultra.
Just checked it out same Ashless composition probably with viscosity modifiers in the new Gen II that is now rated as "All Season" formula . The old formula @ 40:1 use to require muffler decarbonizing every 2-3 yrs , I decarbonize the head on my old C-Series twice & current M-Series every other yr . I may switch them to interceptor at a later date !
Ok , "Pour point depressents" ( aka ) reduce the viscosity factor to enable cold weather pouring which is the norm within numerous injector oils .
Outboards or Marine grade oils are Ashless by design due to the low rpm & heat & have a dispersent additive which prevents corrosion (liquid cooled) Air cooled engines dependant on application can utilize Low Ash oil , for additional lubricity at leaner oil ratio's if the heat is capable of burning off any residual residue effectively .
7263 D600 engine and a 7229 F100 engine.
The lawn boys i have run clean on it and the exhaust ports stay clear but that might have something to do with the fuel i burn though.
Skidoo engines are liquid cooled and require low ash FC,FD oils use of TCW3 oils with cause harm in those engines.
Yes, marine oils are ashless, but they also have a heavier base oil blend because they are under more load. This fact and the fact ashless dispersents don't work over 300 degrees is the reason they can be dirty in a air cooled engine or something like a MX bike, snowmobile etc.. the dispersent technology marine oils use have no inherent corrosion inhibiting ability, while low ash oils have some corrosion inhibiting ability by virtue of the buffering effect of the magnesium and calcium sufonates used as detergents.
