So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

[North by Northwest]

I agree. No amount of tuning will fix the issues I have seen with it.
Plus Lucas is a snake oil company in the first place.

Well i have used both semi & full syn. LUCAS . Not my go to oil in any application , but for a all around oil for recreational use , have had no problems in Bikes , Snowmobiles , even air cooled hand held units when tuned properly . I have yrs of experience in 2t engines & can tune to the mix exceptionally well apparently .

 

[North by Northwest]

If it works for you. Run it. It’s been explained here for years and years. Not a mystery really. Some of these guys work on saws everyday. I work on my own. I’ll use something different

Hes running Ultra Hp , he's all good with it at 50:1 or 40:1 with stock tuning most likeky .

 

[North by Northwest]

I can't help but wonder why my saws, which have run Ultra exclusively for years don't look like this. "Ultra HP lol , thats better ! "

 

[North by Northwest]

I can’t speak for the full synthetic. The other I saw if for myself. Not in pictures. I took the pictures.

Ran the full syn in a 700 SKS for a yr out of necessity , no problems . Returned to my normal Dominator oil afterwards . Never ran it or the semi syn in a saw , however in a 2T Toro lawnmower & grass trimmers no problems . Not my go to oils but for the $$ no worries if mixed to the tune .

 

[jakethesnake]

Well i have used both semi & full syn. LUCAS . Not my go to oil in any application , but for a all around oil for recreational use , have had no problems in Bikes , Snowmobiles , even air cooled hand held units when tuned properly . I have yrs of experience in 2t engines & can tune to the mix exceptionally well apparently .

I’d be careful with the semi synthetic. That’s honestly the only oil I won’t run.
I strongly dislike the stihl oil but a gallon or few I’d burn.
I like my saws tuned well. It just didn’t lubricate efficiency for me. Rod bearing wire enough to let the piston touch the top of the cylinder. No piston scuff. Just wear.
I pulled the muffler off two other saws just to check the exhaust side. Very dry. Typically when one of my husky’s rattle a muffler loose
(Husky joke) the piston is at least shiny.
Considering the wear to the rod on a 346. And posting those pictures on the other forum. Well it was an easy thing to just switch to something with more protection.

I can be sure the saw was tuned. Also pulled mufflers after switching to just the cheap husky low smoke oil. Shiny on the exhaust. At least a trace of the oil was still there.

 

[North by Northwest]

I’d be careful with the semi synthetic. That’s honestly the only oil I won’t run.
I strongly dislike the stihl oil but a gallon or few I’d burn.
I like my saws tuned well. It just didn’t lubricate efficiency for me. Rod bearing wire enough to let the piston touch the top of the cylinder. No piston scuff. Just wear.
I pulled the muffler off two other saws just to check the exhaust side. Very dry. Typically when one of my husky’s rattle a muffler loose
(Husky joke) the piston is at least shiny.
Considering the wear to the rod on a 346. And posting those pictures on the other forum. Well it was an easy thing to just switch to something with more protection.

I can be sure the saw was tuned. Also pulled mufflers after switching to just the cheap husky low smoke oil. Shiny on the exhaust. At least a trace of the oil was still there.

Won't buy Stihl or Husky or any Manufacturers oils , just relabelled junk !

 

[jakethesnake]

Saw was a 346xp with mild port work. That specific saw needed more than the semi synthetic was giving it

 

[jakethesnake]

Won't buy Stihl or Husky or any Manufacturers oils , just relabelled junk !

Tend to agree.

 

[North by Northwest]

Won't buy Stihl or Husky or any Manufacturers oils , just relabelled junk !

Most semi oils are dino with a % of Pao or Ester . Safe enough for my FC oil req'd applications . A little smoke or smell is not a game breaker in most of my recreational units . In my 346 xp & 357 xp or 5105 H or 7910-HD or MS660 milling saw , only FD rated full syn @ 44:1 ratio with 91 octane .

 

[North by Northwest]

Saw was a 346xp with mild port work. That specific saw needed more than the semi synthetic was giving it

I would never run semi syn in a high compression saw application , yeah no FC or TCW-3 . Love my 346 xp last yr offered here up North , got it from a little ole lady in 2012 ! lol.

 

[North by Northwest]

That sure seems to play a large role. Which is why I don't understand why people don't follow the saw manufacturers mixture recommendations. I think the engineers that have put thousands of hours into R&D can make a stronger case for what they recomend than anyone else here that dreams up their own homebrew and then wonder why their saws look like hell, no offense intended.

The manufacturers recommendation is with their fish oil @ their recommended ratio for novice applications . Also , they love warranty work or refusal of warranty work eg: Echo . Anyhow , yes experienced owner operators , buy better oils & mix & tune to their application . I have seen numerous milling & commercial felling saws melt down with Manufacturers oil & ratio's over the yrs ! lol.

 

[North by Northwest]

That is why i prefer the V series and not the E series ( duraforce ).

Majority of coil failures were due to defective coil wires in the F Series Lawnboys & 1st gen E Series.The later E Series Duraforce did have a run of defective 2 stage coils . Oem #68048 could be replaced with a Sten's former F series 99-2911 or a newer E series 99-2916 replacement coil , end of problems . Lawnboy eventually changed coil suppliers to resolve the issue once & forever !

 

[North by Northwest]

Saw was a 346xp with mild port work. That specific saw needed more than the semi synthetic was giving it

My 357 xp I woods ported with a mild transfer port chamfer & intake / exhaust porting . I also opened up the muffler to enhance the port & transfer reworking . It competes with the 346 xp in the wood rpm . Its a screamer with semi chisel !

 

[SweetMK]

I have been reading the oil thread, and thought I would comment.
most dino oils are similar,, most synthetic oils are similar,,
(I say "most" because, there will always be an exception.)

What really is the difference between oil "A" and oil "B" is the polymers that modify the oil.

To visualize a polymer, think of a tow chain,, where the links of the chain are connected. BUT, weakly connected.
The polymers are long, relative to the diameter, like a tow chain.
Also, the polymers are coiled, like a coil spring.

The polymers vary from one manufacturer to another, but, are similar.
The longer the polymers, the stronger the links that are formed between polymers.
The stronger the links, the better the engine will be lubricated.

The BIGGEST factor pertaining to the polymers are the length of the polymers..
AND,, age of the polymer.
As the polymers get older, the bonds send to "fail" and the polymers are then shorter.
Shorter polymers can not interact with other polymers as much as long ones.

Short polymers simply can not protect an engine as well.

Why did I type all of this?? the AGE of the oil that is used!!
Many people find oil "A" to be superior, others find oil "A" to fail.
This could be explained simply by the age of the oil.

If your dealer has too much oil in stock, or does not rotate stock of the oil,,
your old oil could fail to protect your engine.

If you have 2 cycle oil that is over 3 years old, toss it.
ONLY buy as much oil as you can use in a year or two.
Check the date on the oil that you buy,, if it is over two years old, leave it on the shelf.

I ONLY buy a small container of oil at a time, sometimes on the way to buy fresh gas,,
I would NEVER consider buying a quart, the oil would last FAR beyond the age limit of the polymers,, for me.

ALSO, once you mix the gas and oil,, the gasoline starts to break the polymer chains,,
YEP, you guessed it, old oil/gas mix does a horrible job of protecting your engine.

No one ever advertises this info,,
it would be like telling you that there might be a monster in your cereal box!!
NO ONE would buy a cereal that might have a monster in the box,,,,,,,,,,,

Keep the monster out of your chainsaw, use fresh oil, and fresh gas,,,

 

[huskihl]

I have, and almost every one of them admit to using a different mixture than is recommended by the manufacturer. All Stihl products have been tuned to 50:1 for years, don't we think the oil is part of that equation? Do the same people put 15w40 in an engine that calls for 0w20, cuz more is better?
Again I ask the question, why don't my saws look like that after years of running Stihl oil exclusively. Judging by the comments on here its a real mystery.

Mostly, because when I modify a saw, I take on the responsibility of guaranteeing the motor. If I add 30 lbs of compression and force a 50cc saw to cut like a 70cc saw, I’d like to make sure the bearings have enough oil being thrown at them. And 50:1 doesn’t leave enough cushion when the replacement parts alone add up to more than the cost of the modifications.

 

[bwalker]

Won't buy Stihl or Husky or any Manufacturers oils , just relabelled junk !

Husky oil isn't bad, echo oil has always been good. Stihl is the only one with chronically ****** oil. Worth noting Canadian stihl Orange bottle is made by Castrol and isn't the same stuff we get in the states. No experience with it.

 

[jellyroll]

Husky oil isn't bad, echo oil has always been good. Stihl is the only one with chronicle ****** oil. Worth noting Canadian stihl Orange bottle is made by Castrol and isn't the same stuff we get in the states. No expiereance with it.

If i only had a choice of using stihl oil i would chose orange bottle. I just can't stand the headaches from running stihl ultra.

 

[bwalker]

I have been reading the oil thread, and thought I would comment.
most dino oils are similar,, most synthetic oils are similar,,
(I say "most" because, there will always be an exception.)

What really is the difference between oil "A" and oil "B" is the polymers that modify the oil.

To visualize a polymer, think of a tow chain,, where the links of the chain are connected. BUT, weakly connected.
The polymers are long, relative to the diameter, like a tow chain.
Also, the polymers are coiled, like a coil spring.

The polymers vary from one manufacturer to another, but, are similar.
The longer the polymers, the stronger the links that are formed between polymers.
The stronger the links, the better the engine will be lubricated.

The BIGGEST factor pertaining to the polymers are the length of the polymers..
AND,, age of the polymer.
As the polymers get older, the bonds send to "fail" and the polymers are then shorter.
Shorter polymers can not interact with other polymers as much as long ones.

Short polymers simply can not protect an engine as well.

Why did I type all of this?? the AGE of the oil that is used!!
Many people find oil "A" to be superior, others find oil "A" to fail.
This could be explained simply by the age of the oil.

If your dealer has too much oil in stock, or does not rotate stock of the oil,,
your old oil could fail to protect your engine.

If you have 2 cycle oil that is over 3 years old, toss it.
ONLY buy as much oil as you can use in a year or two.
Check the date on the oil that you buy,, if it is over two years old, leave it on the shelf.

I ONLY buy a small container of oil at a time, sometimes on the way to buy fresh gas,,
I would NEVER consider buying a quart, the oil would last FAR beyond the age limit of the polymers,, for me.

ALSO, once you mix the gas and oil,, the gasoline starts to break the polymer chains,,
YEP, you guessed it, old oil/gas mix does a horrible job of protecting your engine.

No one ever advertises this info,,
it would be like telling you that there might be a monster in your cereal box!!
NO ONE would buy a cereal that might have a monster in the box,,,,,,,,,,,

Keep the monster out of your chainsaw, use fresh oil, and fresh gas,,,

What a load of crap.

 

[bwalker]

Still waiting for evidence of this....

It's been posted. You have any evidence that suggests different?

 

[jellyroll]

What a load of crap.

I was waiting on you to chime in Ben.