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I usually climb to top of 24 foot ladder and buck in. I then proceed to climb up the tree if there are limbs to climb up on. If there are no limbs to climb up on, I set my rope above me with a 12 foot pruner. That usually gets me up to where there are limbs to climb up on again.Climbing with a 12 foot pruner is admitting a pain sometimes but that is how I learned. I will admit to free climbing at times when it feels comfortable to me. It was taught to me as 3 point climbing. 2 hands, 1 foot. or 1 hand, 2 feet. I realize this is not the teachings of todays time and maybe shouldnt even be brought up here, but nonetheless it is the way I do it.
 
The bean bags are god for rope placement at the start.

The only time I've seen my father us a rope and (not) free climb before getting tyed in was if the tree was to thick to hold on to. When needed he just makes a small coil and throws it.
 
DBH to big to hug?

What do you mean to big to hold onto?

What do you mean free climb?
 
Re: DBH to big to hug?

Originally posted by xtremetrees
What do you mean to big to hold onto?

What do you mean free climb?

His Dad's a gaffer. It don't hurt the trees!:rolleyes:

I use a throwbag on almost every ascention.

Another good way to traverce to another stem/tree is to make a monkey fist on oyur tail, and use it as a jamknot in a tight crotch. The use a prussik or ascender to transfer over and clear the MF.

It is a PITA if the knot slips out when your almost there:eek:
 
I think the main reason why spiking is so damaging to trees is becasue each wound is compartmentalized... All that compartmentalization interferes with the normal flow of the tree....
Anyone know the science on this???
 
Not just the normal flow, but the reserves for the immidiate area. walls 1,2 and 3 need to chemically alter, and wall 4 is the rapid regrowth to enclose the wound.

These wounds being in long areas with little or no photosynthetic material have very little local reserve to start with.
 
I just got got to reading this thread. I spend too much time over on the chainsaw forum.

I was told that what separates them men from the boys in this industry are the ones that can prune properly. Meaning that when you prune correctly you are not wearing spikes. In order to get thru a tree without spikes you have to learn how to climb. In other words, if you can climb without spikes chances are you can be pretty good on removals with them. Hope this made sense.
 
quote:
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Originally posted by JonnyHart
Oh yeah, what trees handle spike trimming best?
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Originally posted by netree
None. That's why it's FROWNED upon.


Call me crazy, but I can think of a couple of instances where climbing with spikes for pruning is acceptable.
1) If the tree's bark is incredibly thick and would keep the spike from reaching the cambium.
2) If spiking is the safest way to climb it, after considering all other options.

How hypocritical it would be to prune a tree poorly without spikes and say it was professional because no spikes were used. Essentially, don't use spikes to prune, but don't miss the greater picture and be sure the actually pruning being performed is properly done.
 
Originally posted by Nickrosis
quote:
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1) If the tree's bark is incredibly thick and would keep the spike from reaching the cambium.

What about Phelogen Nick? That is living tissue.

How hypocritical it would be to prune a tree poorly without spikes and say it was professional because no spikes were used. Essentially, don't use spikes to prune, but don't miss the greater picture and be sure the actually pruning being performed is properly done.

I think that the point is moot, how can it be proper pruning if you are wounding the tree with fgaffs?

If you climb without gaffs and just od a raise and gut, then your still just a hack anyways.

I've worked trees where it would have been way easier to have put gaffs on, to get out to do the work properly. Should I have done so and saved the company I was workign for some more money? Not I!
 
Originally posted by Nickrosis

2) If spiking is the safest way to climb it, after considering all other options.


That pertains to the safety of the climber, not what's best for the tree itself. Go back and read the question.
 
netree Incorrect as usual, Nick.

Hey, I appreciate the baseless bashing. Always nice to get here when voicing an opinion.

netree Go back and read the question.

I re-read the original question which asked if he's an inconsiderate jerk for spiking. I was not changing the subject.

I'll start at the top, rather, the outside. The outermost layer of a tree's trunk or branch system is called phellem, produced to the outside by the phellogen zone. The phellem becomes functional upon death. The phellogen is protected by the phellem and remains living to continue to produce the bark we see. I'm taking this directly from Dr. Alex Shigo's landmark book, A New Tree Biology.

My direct interpretation of that would lead me to believe that if the phellem layer is thick enough, spurs could be jabbed into a tree without touching the living phellogen layer (I referred to it in my inital post as cambium, bark cambium). I remember hearing John Hendricksen talk about his brother who was spiking a tree because the bark was so thick, it was standard operating procedure to do so.

So to summarize the defense of my first point, if the bark is thick enough, spurs can be used without reaching the phellogen.

netree That pertains to the safety of the climber, not what's best for the tree itself.
Yes to the first part; no to the second. We choose climbing practices based on the safety for the climber all the time. That's my point, if there is no safer way, let's not put the person in danger. I say so also from a legal defense viewpoint. What would you say to the jury if a person died removing a dangerous hanger because spurs were immediately ruled out.

JonnyHart Something tells me these guys ain't trimming trees "poorly without spikes" Nick.
People climb without friction savers all the time. People make bad cuts all the time. I make bad cuts all the time. My point is that we have armchair arborists sitting around saying that spurs are bad without looking at any exceptions. Saying topping is bad without looking at any exceptions.

Trees are living, dynamic, unique, incredible beings. I would dare make a hard and fast rule to such things. Yet, urban trees are viewed as a resource and service to people, are they not? We quantify them in terms of energy savings to buildings and pleasant patio shade. We prune to let light in so grass can grow better. Don't you think such unnecessary pruning, from the tree's perspective, as raising limbs for clearance is detrimental to the tree? Of course it is. JPS, you agreed by saying, "If you climb without gaffs and just [do] a raise and gut, then your still just a hack anyways."

So why fuss over a few wounds from a set of spurs to remove a hazardous hanger? Lions tailing, clearance pruning, sail-effect pruning, and crown reduction pruning are the major wound inflicters! Don't kid yourself! It's far easier to close over a small wound than a large wound.

I'm not advocating the use of spurs for pruning. I'm challenging this automatic spurs-out-for-all-but-removals thinking. Challenge me back, but don't bash me.
 
Challenge me back, but don't bash me.

Yeah, I'm jumpin' on your bandwagon nick, I think the only problem here is going to be getting alot of our fellow A.S. addicts
to be able to differientiate between challenge and bash, and trying to learn by means of understanding different peoples ideas, with an open mind, rather than immediately expecting themselves to automatically have to define right/wrong, and then warship their primary teachings. heck, the way the tree care industry is evolving, it wouldn't surprise me to hear that we've discovered that spiking trees is good for them next week.
well, it would surprise me a little, but i think you could see my point.
 
There's a good point now I get bisey.

Probably never before in the history of mankind has such a informational exchange existed for trees,.
 
Nick, get rid of the book and spend 20 or so years in the REAL world.

The question asked was:

Originally posted by JonnyHart
Oh yeah, what trees handle spike trimming best?

Just because Shigo is the most published doesn't make him the bottom line. I've noticed your constant quotes from his books, and I have to wonder... do you know anything that DIDN'T come from his book?


Baseless bashing? Far from it. I have plenty of basis to bash you, aside from just not liking you.


"My direct interpretation of that would lead me to believe that if the phellem layer is thick enough, spurs could be jabbed into a tree without touching the living phellogen layer (I referred to it in my inital post as cambium, bark cambium). I remember hearing John Hendricksen talk about his brother who was spiking a tree because the bark was so thick, it was standard operating procedure to do so.

So to summarize the defense of my first point, if the bark is thick enough, spurs can be used without reaching the phellogen."

For one, being SOP doesn't mean it's good for the tree, even if you're not penetrating relatively deep.

and...
JonnyHart isn't going to be climbing trees big enough to have bark like that in HIS area, any more than I'm going to be climbing 250' tall redwoods in mine. And after all, isn't THAT kinda relevant?



quote:
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netree That pertains to the safety of the climber, not what's best for the tree itself.
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Nick:
"Yes to the first part; no to the second. We choose climbing practices based on the safety for the climber all the time. That's my point, if there is no safer way, let's not put the person in danger"

You just re-inforced the first part- it's still not what's best for the tree. It's ALL about the safety of the climber.
 
Sarcasm? I didn't get that.:confused:


Climbing with or without spurs are BOTH an art that is not easily mastered. You might think you can do it, until you see a true pro at work. Or YOU may be the pro.
 
Hardcore NEtree.
I get bisey no way bro. Where else can a pic of a tree we need to fix or a tree we took down get viewed by other folks who makin a living doing the same exact thing.

In groups, nations, and efforts insanity is the rule

:blob2:
 
So to summarize the defense of my first point, if the bark is thick enough, spurs can be used without reaching the phellogen.

So how do you determine if the bark is thick enough? Those people who I know using this excuse will assume by species that the it is OK.

Untill I see a peer reveiwed article that states that there are species with bark thick enough to gaff, I'll not use that argument any more.

So why fuss over a few wounds from a set of spurs to remove a hazardous hanger? Lions tailing, clearance pruning, sail-effect pruning, and crown reduction pruning are the major wound inflicters! Don't kid yourself! It's far easier to close over a small wound than a large wound.

The argument that pruning is wounding has been agreed to on many occasions. It is the nature and location of the wounding that causes the problems. To put NTP cuts on par with gaff wounds only plays into the hack argument.

There will allways be an exception to the general rule, that is a given. If there is a delineing tree that we need to reduce or remove some latterals on, and it is on a schedule for removal in a few years, I might concider using gaffs if it is eaiser and safer.



We prune to let light in so grass can grow better. Don't you think such unnecessary pruning, from the tree's perspective, as raising limbs for clearance is detrimental to the tree? Of course it is. JPS, you agreed by saying, "If you climb without gaffs and just [do] a raise and gut, then your still just a hack anyways."

I've said for years that we are specialized property maintinance technicians. The better ones will try to resolve the trees "needs" with the needs and wants of the owner.

My point is that we have armchair arborists sitting around saying that spurs are bad without looking at any exceptions. Saying topping is bad without looking at any exceptions.

I dont have any arms on my chair, and I've seen cankers in bark from gaffes used several years prior. I've also seen marks where they've closed up rather well. My view is that you cannot tell, and it is improper, needless wounding.

When is topping good? That is another thread you can start if you wish the debate.
 
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