Split Racks - Need to build some storage racks

[flashhole]

I have split all the rounds I had cut to length over the fall and winter. According my estimates I have about 5 cords of wood, maybe a bit more. In past years I've been stacking it on pallets ... I hate them. Time to make some racks.

Pretty much dedided on using 12' two by sixes as the horizontal runners (2 of them standing on edge per rack) with ground contact supports in the center as well as the ends. I'm thinking I will raise the runners 12" - 16" off the ground. I'm looking for ideas on the vertical uprights at the ends that don't consume the length of the 2x6 for attachment. I want the full 12' length of the runners for stacking.

Pics would be great. I haven't purchased any material yet but I have to get the split piles out of the way so I can continue wood quest 2013. I have at least 10 more trees to process and no room to work. I debated building a covered bin but decided against it. I don't want anything I can't move to another spot. The racks will sit on an asphalt pad.

Any ideas?

 

[deepsouth]

What length do you cut to?

I live on the side of a ridge, so have nowhere flat to stack wood.

My dodgy racks consist of a 4" concrete block on its side on the ground and two recycled hardwood fence rails or railing timber on top, with 6' star pickets driven into the ground in pairs for the ends and a single at about 7' for stack stability.

Overall stack is about 4' high.

 

[deepsouth]

View attachment 288870

That's a pic of my latest stack

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And the messy stack that is two rows deep (and currently has wire mesh sheets propped against it).

Can't actually see much as its 10pm and the second stack is basically in the dark.

 

[T. Mainus]

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This is what I use. I can build them for about 25-30$ a piece.

 

[flashhole]

deepsouth - I cut lengths 16" - 24". I'm not real consistent with the length.

 

[deepsouth]

All I would do is treat it like framing for a house over those spans, make sure you fix noggins of say 10" between the two timber pieces at regular intervals do they don't twist. And use some 2x6 PT under the two pieces as the posts, as well as attaching 2x6 at the ends for the uprights.

 

[jthornton]

This is what I use. I can build them for about 25-30$ a piece.

I do something like that but just use high tensile fence wire instead of chain. I stand 2x on edge and drive a fence post at each end about 6-9" deep and tie the fence wire across the top.

John

 

[philoshop]

View attachment 288877
Would something like this work for you? As stated above you would need to add cross-members to prevent twisting. This drawing came from Dek-Block brand concrete pier system. Do a search for "Dek-Block" for more info. Most home improvement stores carry them for about $5 each. I've used them for small decks like stair landings before and they're pretty slick. Hope it helps.

I misunderstood your question. Thought you were asking about supporting the base.

 

[triptester]

Because I have access to free pipe this is what I made. The second pic is of end supports that are attached to 4x6's with 2 short lag bolts.
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[flashhole]

triptester, I like your pipe racks. Maybe I will have to rethink my approach. I have a welder that I have been wanting to hook up. Haven't used it in several years. I can run it off my portable generator. Made lots of pipe corrals at one time so I know how to deal with the pipe. Still have my cutter and notcher. Hmmmmmmmm!

 

[triptester]

triptester, I like your pipe racks. Maybe I will have to rethink my approach. I have a welder that I have been wanting to hook up. Haven't used it in several years. I can run it off my portable generator. Made lots of pipe corrals at one time so I know how to deal with the pipe. Still have my cutter and notcher. Hmmmmmmmm!

I made a little crimping press with a bottle jack to flatten the pipe ends.Found it quicker than notching and eazier to weld.I only flatten them about halfway.

 

[clarksvilleal]

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This is what I use. I can build them for about 25-30$ a piece.

T. - I like your rack design a lot, and I have enough lumber laying around to make several of them for free. What is the height of yours? I was thinking of going at least 6' - 7' high to make best use of my space, which is a covered building porch like yours, and still be able to stack and pull the wood without getting on a ladder or stool.

 

[T. Mainus]

My racks are 4' high x 8' long. Exactly one face cord. We sell firewood, our customers want to see exactly what they are getting. No pick-up loads, that kind of thing.

Tom

 

[dave_dj1]

You could always bolt the upright to the end of the horizontals.
If you put the uprights on edge and uses say, 2 x 4's with some 6" timberlocks and add a brace at the top, even if it's just some rope to help control the pushing.

 

[deepsouth]

I wouldnt just bolt onto the ends.... It needs extra timber under the rails.

Put it this way, my first rack pictured is about 3.9m long, 1.15m high and the wood is cut to 325mm or 13".

That is about 1.5m3 of wood, and weighs probably up to 1200kg..... Bolts into the end grain probably won't hold. Even a truss bracket or similar isnt going to work.

 

[flashhole]

I agree and that is exactly the reason I started this thread. If I go the metal tubing route with my "design" I need 23 pieces of 24' long 1.25" diameter 1/8" thick pipe to hold 6 cords of wood. I don't know how much pipe tubing costs. I'm thinking galvanized heavy wall tubing used for chain link fence.

 

[dave_dj1]

Maybe build something like these, use your 2 x 6 bottoms and 2 x 4 sides.
2x4 Basics Firewood Rack Bracket Kit, Model# 90142 | Wood Storage| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I've used treated 2"x4"x16' as rails with four kleats or spreaders on top. For the ends a treated 4'x4'x8' post set in the ground 30" or so. Cheap, can be moved easily when done. When I use a row of wood up the base gets hung on the wall for better access to the next row. If the post is in the way, it gets pull it out and the hole filled.