Splitter Build...I-Beam size??

[Mich4x4]

Guys...

Need some help here.

I am slowly trying to gather materials for a splitter build. I have a friend that owns a steel company. I asked if he could get me an I-beam for my splitter build and he said he could get anything I want.... FREE!! So I need some specifics.

For the basis of my splitter I intend on using a M416 Military trailer frame (1/4 ton trailer from the vietnam era).

Regarding the I-beam size what is ideal? I want something stout, but I am not trying to split stone.. So I really don't know what to tell him. I have never bought an I-beam before so I am not sure what would work best. The splitter will be used for personal use only and not for any commercial type use. I was thinking of something that is 8 foot long, 1/2" thick steel, 12" tall, with an 8" flange? Is this overkill? Let me know. Also is there a reference for the size of the I-beam other than just "explaining" the measurements?

Thanks for the Help.
Jeff

 

[chaikwa]

Guys...

Need some help here.

I am slowly trying to gather materials for a splitter build. I have a friend that owns a steel company. I asked if he could get me an I-beam for my splitter build and he said he could get anything I want.... FREE!! So I need some specifics.

For the basis of my splitter I intend on using a M416 Military trailer frame (1/4 ton trailer from the vietnam era).

Regarding the I-beam size what is ideal? I want something stout, but I am not trying to split stone.. So I really don't know what to tell him. I have never bought an I-beam before so I am not sure what would work best. The splitter will be used for personal use only and not for any commercial type use. I was thinking of something that is 8 foot long, 1/2" thick steel, 12" tall, with an 8" flange? Is this overkill? Let me know. Also is there a reference for the size of the I-beam other than just "explaining" the measurements?

Thanks for the Help.
Jeff

Well, you can just guess, or you can get technical and use a beam calculation chart. Here's a link:|
American Wide Flange Beams - W Beam

And here's something that was sent to me explaining how to USE that chart:

Here are the basics of finding a beam.

I take the force in pounds you want to deliver times the height of your splitting wedge. So for your 5" cylinder x 3000 psi gives you approx 30 tons so 60000 lbs. Say you build a 12" tall wedge.

60000 x 12" = 720000 in lbs <-- This is the max moment (torque) you will place on the beam.

Divide this number by 21600, this is the max tensile stress we want to put on the beam. It is basically a 1.5 safety factor on an A36 beam.

720000 / 21600 = 33.3 in^3 This is the section modulus that you have to have greater than to assure your beam is strong enough to resist the moment (torque) you could put on it.

Now you need to find a chart that lists the section modulus for W-beams. Here is one:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...ms-d_1319.html

The section modulus is labeled "W" in this chart. ASIC labels it "S" if you look it up in the back sections of a machinery's handbook for example.

Look through the chart (I printed the pages out) and go hunting for your beam. The chart I linked to does not have the flange thickness listed. You can get the dimensional info from a steel supplier stocklist Ryerson - Server Error

For example my splitter has a 5" cylinder 3000 psi system pressure and a 12" tall wedge. My beam is a W8 x 48 -- 8.5 H x 8.110 w x .685 flange thick. The section modulus in the x-x direction is 43.3 so I am good.

A word of caution: be careful of tall skinny beams! They will show strong enough but they will twist!! When designing steel structures, there are additional calculations done to be sure that the beam does not twist under load and whether supports are needed to prevent this. Most log splitters use 1 beam (ie no buddies to support from) so keep your beam shape pretty square. I wouldn't get any narrower top flange than 6".

This is a conservative approach. Some could argue to use half the height of the wedge or the pin height of the cylinder mount instead of the entire height of the wedge. This will give you a smaller needed number to beat but your splitter may have more spring to it when pushing it to its limits.

You should be able to plate the top, bottom and both ends of the beam you have and get something that will work. Otherwise print out a chart grab a tape and start hunting.

 

[Rodburner04]

An 8x31 is stronger than you'll ever need for a wood splitter.

 

[Mich4x4]

Thanks guys... The link and explanation really helps. Rodburner why do you say 8x31 is all I would need? According to the chart in the link, that is basically an 8"x8" beam?

 

[Mich4x4]

Seems as if the store bought models have beams that are bigger than 8" beam height. Anyone else have suggestions? What did you use?

 

[Zeus103363]

I built my splitter with a piece of w6x25. Works wonderful for me. I only have a 4" cylinder. Of corse there have been a few knotty pieces it wouldn't split...but then again they just mess up the stack. I would recommend Something, 6", 8", or 10" tall and say, 20ish-30ish lb per foot. Somewhere in there would be fine. Sure a big w12x50 looks cool, there is really no need for all that. I'm sure you are gonna add some gusset plates in the web of the beam so that will help stiffen it up. If you need some cad drawings I have some of the splitter I built. Good luck, and if I can help just let me know.

Photo of my splitter I built.

 

[Mich4x4]

Zeus... Nice splitter.. Thanks for the advice..

Looking at the chart via the link provided...
Considering the following:

W8x31
W8x35
W8x40


What length should I have the beam cut to? I would like to have enough power to split anything I put on it. Thinking of a 10-13 hp engine. I assume Ram length will dictate beam length. 6 foot? 8 foot?

Thanks

 

[triptester]

The beam lenght is determined by total of all components; rear cylinder mount, eye to eye cylinder diamension, push plate, cylinder stroke, and wedge depht. Approx. 8-9 feet.

For general specs Google the various comercial splitter manufacturers. Timber wolf, Split-rite , Iron&Oak.

You want a beam that will handle the job but remember you have to handle the beam first. A lifting device and a high amp welder are a must.

 

[blades]

Made my beam out of 2, 4'x6", 1/4" walled steel rectangular tubes. They are welded together all the way around. added angle iron for guide rails ( easy to replace if they mangled) makes a very strong beam. It far surpasses my original conventional beam for any type of deflection. I also installed a 3/8" thick top plate( likely never wear it out) which in addition to welded on the side is plug welded to the beam on the top side.

 

[Mich4x4]

Thanks for the responses...

My planning is in the "infancy" stages right now. I do have access to an arc welder and Mig welder capable of welding 1/2 plate. No problems there. I also have access to a chain fall crane and or bucket tractor that will lift the beam no problem. I do like the rectangular tube idea. Good work there!

I can get the beam any time I needs it. So, maybe I should hold off until I can get my hands on a cylinder and figure out lengths etc. I have been searching some other builds on this site and have some good ideas. It is just a matter of getting everything together and starting the build.

Jeff

 

[jthornton]

I built mine from some drops and scabbed them together. It has not been tested yet...

View attachment 307418

JT

 

[Preston]

I don't have my steel book in front of me, but I think the 8w x 31 is a half in thickness in web and flange. You've building a very heavy splitter. But to me, the wide flange beam is the way to go.

 

[sw18x]

I built a monster splitter last summer. I forget the size I-Beam I had, but looking at it you wouldn't think in a million years you could bend it. Well, we bent it on the first try. I ended up re-using the I-Beam, but welded a 3/4" plate on the top for the slide. We also welded a smaller I-Beam with the flanges turned up to the bottom for support. Regardless of what any chart says, assume the worst and build it as strong as possible. I'd recommend to anyone starting from scratch to weld a stronger plate on top, it's not that much more of an expense, it forces you to use a wider pusher, and it guarantees you'll never bend that slide.

Here's some pics of the rebuild and the finished product. In the first pic you can see where the beam bent. A large reason why it bent was the design of the original slide, and the fact I have such a long throw on the cylinder (36") which puts some ridiculous leverage on the beam. Still...you're doing the right thing by carefully planning things out ahead, take it from my experience nothing's worse than spending hours and hours on a project and having to start all over again when it fails.

View attachment 307420View attachment 307421View attachment 307422

 

[Mich4x4]

Preston... according to the Link in the first response a W8x31 has a web thickness of .285". That is just over a 1/4" if I am figuring right...

SW18x... Nice Splitter you have there. Yes, I definitely want to build this ONE time. I would like it very stout, but not ridiculously overkill.

Thanks Guys!

Jeff

 

[Preston]

You have to understand the width and the flanges are all the same thickness with the wide flange beam. The width is the same as the height of the web. Personally, I would never use the 1/4. It will twist too easily. That is unless you plate the top pretty heavily.

I got my steel schedule book and it says the 8x31, which means 31 lbs per foot, has a flange thickness of 7/16 with the web being 5/16. If that helps you a little.

 

[chaikwa]

Here's another alternative for you. I used 2, 1" thick X 10" high flat bars and welded a 1" thick X 6" wide top plate onto the pair of flat bars. The wedge and wedge backer will go between the two flat bars, the wedge being able to be slid up and down and the backer being welded solidly in place.

 

[Preston]

Here's another alternative for you. I used 2, 1" thick X 10" high flat bars and welded a 1" thick X 6" wide top plate onto the pair of flat bars. The wedge and wedge backer will go between the two flat bars, the wedge being able to be slid up and down and the backer being welded solidly in place.

What in the world do you handle that material with. And what axle are you planning on using?

 

[nathon918]

You have to understand the width and the flanges are all the same thickness with the wide flange beam. The width is the same as the height of the web. Personally, I would never use the 1/4. It will twist too easily. That is unless you plate the top pretty heavily.

I got my steel schedule book and it says the 8x31, which means 31 lbs per foot, has a flange thickness of 7/16 with the web being 5/16. If that helps you a little.

you're measurements are accurate.... but only for a 8x35 beam.
a 8x31 is the only beam that is a true square 8" x 8" beam all of the heavier 8" beams have a larger section depth and flange width, and the lighter ones have a smaller section depth and flange width.
a 8x31 does have a .285-.288 web thickness, or roughly 9/32"

i wouldnt go any lighter than a 8x35, im personally running a 8x40 on my splitter, i work with a structural engineer and he ran stress analysis on the beam and how i wanted the wedge and cylinder anchor setup, and at 60 ton (double my output) between the top of my 14" tall wedge and my cylinder anchor (roughy 6' apart) the beam deflects only .016 (not even noticable), thats double my rated output of the cylinder and with no extra support on the beam. hopefully ill get to try it out soon, waiting for the generator to be rebuilt for my engine, finaly made my pump adaptor this weekend, then all i have to do is paint it, bring it to have the hoses fitted, and get some oil...:msp_w00t:
so really im just trying to say dont cheap out on the beam, its the "backbone" of the splitter or you'll be doing this:bang:espically since yu can get it "free"

 

[chaikwa]

What in the world do you handle that material with. And what axle are you planning on using?

LOL! I mainly move heavy things like that with my backhoe, but I have moved them a small amount by hand. It's all about leverage I guess! As far as axles go, right now I have a pair of 3500 pound Torflex axles under it. They don't LIKE it, but they do the job... kinda. I have no plans to transport that thing on the road, the axles just make it moveable around my woodlot. If they break, then I'll drag it. Eventually I may put a pair of 6000's under it, but I already have about 10 grand into it and I couldn't see spending the money to put the right axles under it just to move it a few feet every now and again.

 

[Preston]

LOL! I mainly move heavy things like that with my backhoe, but I have moved them a small amount by hand. It's all about leverage I guess! As far as axles go, right now I have a pair of 3500 pound Torflex axles under it. They don't LIKE it, but they do the job... kinda. I have no plans to transport that thing on the road, the axles just make it moveable around my woodlot. If they break, then I'll drag it. Eventually I may put a pair of 6000's under it, but I already have about 10 grand into it and I couldn't see spending the money to put the right axles under it just to move it a few feet every now and again.

I was thinking if you are moving that material by hand, you should be called, Big John, Big Bad John. :msp_w00t: