Stihl 028 AV Super repair

[BuckthornBonnie]

Oem, only. My dealer was able to get a couple for me 2-3 years back. They’re sometimes on eBay, too.

My parts deal had a few along with the 024 filters. They turn up.

 

[acarpenterdad]

I may have some time tonight to mess with it. If not, it will be next week before anything else gets done. All of my kids and grandkids are coming home for a reunion, minus 1 daughter in law and 2 week old grand daughter. So i'm gonna be busy for a bit.

 

[Mad Professor]

One more thing. The AM replacement air filters often have problems with the choke working properly. The either not closing on choke, or closing when should be open.

Would like to hear from others what is a good AM filter for stihls with built in chokes?

 

[HarleyT]

1118 120 1601 AIR FILTER/REAR/FLOCKED $10.97


1118 120 1606 AIR FILTER/FRONT/FLOCKED $11.02

1118 120 1611 AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY $30.00

Still in the price list.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yep. A decent dealer will also probably have em in stock.

 

[Mad Professor]

1118 120 1601 AIR FILTER/REAR/FLOCKED $10.97


1118 120 1606 AIR FILTER/FRONT/FLOCKED $11.02

1118 120 1611 AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY $30.00

Still in the price list.

Hmmm???? Stihl dealer a few years back said discontinued He is a long time dealer and by far the best for service.

I have your price list Harley, thanks. But I've not needed 028 parts in a while.

 

[acarpenterdad]

1118 120 1601 AIR FILTER/REAR/FLOCKED $10.97


1118 120 1606 AIR FILTER/FRONT/FLOCKED $11.02

1118 120 1611 AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY $30.00

Still in the price list.

Cool! Ill se if my dealer hasem.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That is a worn out flocked filter. OEM is NLA from stihl. I purchased a spare for mine a few years back. And I saved the old one that was marginal.

Might be able to find NOS/OEM on ebay? Or good used.

Don't scub them or use high pressure air to clean. Some dish detergent and your fingers/warm water will clean them. Then dry like laundry in air.

What are others using for 028 these days?

I have used these filters from Stens on 028`s without a hitch,
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-STENS-A...041497?hash=item2857f00c99:g:kp8AAOSwpeFa1~Lr

 

[acarpenterdad]

I have used these filters from Stens on 028`s without a hitch,
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-STENS-A...041497?hash=item2857f00c99:g:kp8AAOSwpeFa1~Lr

Thanks!

 

[acarpenterdad]

Update and a question. Just took my last kid to the airport and im going to a rally thursday . So it will be saturday before i can mess with the saw. Is there a process of elimination that i can do to pinpoint the real problem ? Granted it needs a new filter regardless. But i also dont like the idea of buying parts bit by bit and still come out with a lemon of a saw. Capiche? My husky 44 just crapped out on me. It dies once it gets hot. So im down to my husky 576 and it sucks for clearing brush. Like using a sledge to drive a tack.! All of you gentlemen have been very helpful and i appreciate it very much! I will keep you posted, its just taking longer than i was hoping for.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Are you asking about the 44?

If so, sounds like a spark issue. Replace the plug. Quick easy and cheap. A bad coil and low compression will also give these symptoms. I suppose the gas tank not venting properly could mimic these symptoms.

 

[acarpenterdad]

Are you asking about the 44?

If so, sounds like a spark issue. Replace the plug. Quick easy and cheap. A bad coil and low compression will also give these symptoms. I suppose the gas tank not venting properly could mimic these symptoms.

I plan to work on it next. I will start a new post on it. But i want fix the 028 first. I'm not good at doing more than 1 thing at a time, especially when i'm not very knowledgeable about it!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Where you at on the 028, anything put back together?

 

[acarpenterdad]

Where you at on the 028, anything put back together?

Everything except the top cover is assembled. It runs when primed but no fuel through the carb.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Two things come to mind for that, the carb must be in good operating shape and the impulse line needs to be connected tight to the cylinder base and the nipple on the carb. The carb pumps fuel by the impulse signal from the crankcase, connections need to be airtight, passage to the crankcase must be clear. When using sealers between cylinders and the base it is easy to block the impulse channel , seen it many times by now. The carb must be functioning proper meaning good tight diaphragms, tight but not hard, cannot be stretched and wrinkly to pump fuel. I spray a few pumps of mix I have in a spray bottle through the carb throat to get the first startup, sometimes it takes a cycle or two to pull fuel through and fill the fuel bowl in the carb. If the engine will start and run a few seconds you know it has spark and compression, try a few cycles of spray through the carb, pull over and let the engine start and run, after 3-4 cycles of this and it will not keep running then further investigation is required to find why its not pulling fuel. Fuel line to the tank must also be air tight at the carb and all the way into the tank down at least below fuel level.

 

[acarpenterdad]

Two things come to mind for that, the carb must be in good operating shape and the impulse line needs to be connected tight to the cylinder base and the nipple on the carb. The carb pumps fuel by the impulse signal from the crankcase, connections need to be airtight, passage to the crankcase must be clear. When using sealers between cylinders and the base it is easy to block the impulse channel , seen it many times by now. The carb must be functioning proper meaning good tight diaphragms, tight but not hard, cannot be stretched and wrinkly to pump fuel. I spray a few pumps of mix I have in a spray bottle through the carb throat to get the first startup, sometimes it takes a cycle or two to pull fuel through and fill the fuel bowl in the carb. If the engine will start and run a few seconds you know it has spark and compression, try a few cycles of spray through the carb, pull over and let the engine start and run, after 3-4 cycles of this and it will not keep running then further investigation is required to find why its not pulling fuel. Fuel line to the tank must also be air tight at the carb and all the way into the tank down at least below fuel level.

The engine will start and run until the mix i sprayed in the carb runs out. Thats where i'm at.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Keep up the sleuthing, its in the fuel system somewhere.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yep.

Easiest thing to check is the fuel line. If you have some air, pull the line off the carb and pinch it off at the filter with forceps (or whatever) and pump a little air through it to check for leaks. Don't need much air pressure. You can even just attach another piece of fuel line (or whatever to avoid tasting fuel) and just blow through it. If the line is good, remove the carb and double check the diaphragms for condition and order of assembly. Also check the metering lever for proper function and adjustment and make sure the inlet screen isn't plugged with crap. Check the impulse barb on the carb for obstruction. If the carb looks good, you're on to inspecting the rest of the intake (which is easiest with the handle removed). Just leave the impulse hose in place where it pops through the handle and slide the other end off the barb at the cylinder. Check the hose for cracks or breaks. Also check the impulse connection at the cylinder base for obstruction or damage. Next would be the intake boot. Remove the clamp and carefully check for cracks or tears, particularly at the clamp location. If all good there, replace the boot ensuring the clamp is nice and snug, but not gorilla tight where the clamp may cut through the rubber.

You will most likely find your problem somewhere during that process.

 

[acarpenterdad]

Yep.

Easiest thing to check is the fuel line. If you have some air, pull the line off the carb and pinch it off at the filter with forceps (or whatever) and pump a little air through it to check for leaks. Don't need much air pressure. You can even just attach another piece of fuel line (or whatever to avoid tasting fuel) and just blow through it. If the line is good, remove the carb and double check the diaphragms for condition and order of assembly. Also check the metering lever for proper function and adjustment and make sure the inlet screen isn't plugged with crap. Check the impulse barb on the carb for obstruction. If the carb looks good, you're on to inspecting the rest of the intake (which is easiest with the handle removed). Just leave the impulse hose in place where it pops through the handle and slide the other end off the barb at the cylinder. Check the hose for cracks or breaks. Also check the impulse connection at the cylinder base for obstruction or damage. Next would be the intake boot. Remove the clamp and carefully check for cracks or tears, particularly at the clamp location. If all good there, replace the boot ensuring the clamp is nice and snug, but not gorilla tight where the clamp may cut through the rubber.

You will most likely find your problem somewhere during that process.

Thank you. That's exactly what I'll do!

 

[Mad Professor]

Did you clean carb?

If you get back into carb. May want to recheck all gaskets and diaphragms are in correct order/positioned properly/ and an "extra" in the carb kit used in a similar carb was not used.

Another member here, with a 028S, a bit back had the diaphragms/gaskets in wrong order.