Stihl 028 WB Rebuild | Full Restoration

[Cardston]

OK, I stand corrected. Sometimes I'm too much of a pragmatist. It's a great hobby. I get a lot of enjoyment out of just taking a saw that does not run and/or has not run for years and bringing it back to life. The astonished look and smile on the owner's face (including my own) is almost reward enough on its own.

It was a valid question. I've always been curious about how things work. I rebuilt a Chevy 350 engine years ago in high school, but 2 strokes have always been an enigma to me. So I'll learn as I go. It ran great as I mentioned in the opening post, but that's not deterring me from a full tear down and rebuild/restore.

 

[rednecksawman]

I just built a couple of 028s the couple of things I would replace is the fuel line and filter impulse line and crankseals I just rebuilt 2 028 supers and now I have a 028wb to build

 

[rednecksawman]

one of the 028 supers has the side tensioner on it I haven't seen a lot of those.

 

[Cardston]

Here is last night's progress. I pulled the jar and the cylinder wall looks great-nice and shiny, no scoring or damage. Measured the cylinder, I've got the 42mm.

There was quite a bit of carbon build up on the piston head. I don't know if that is normal or indicative of a problem. In the images below I've already cleaned up a lot of the carbon, but there is still some pesky stuff that won't go away. Any recommendations on the best way to remove it?

I cleaned up the gasket mating surfaces on the jar with some 400 wet/dry stuck to a flat piece of granite.

Question-Does anybody have a source for an original service manual for an 028 WB? Since I'm going to be splitting the crankcase and I've already pulled the jar, I'll need specs. My local Stihl dealer told me they aren't available anymore. And a quick check on eBay shows quite a few of what look to be photocopied manuals. I'd rather not give $20 to someone who spent 50 cents at Kinkos making copies.

Serial # 6038845.

 

[Cardston]

Splitting the crankcase took some doing, but it didn't end up being as hard as I thought it would.

Now I have 3 pieces ready for dry ice blasting and then some new powder coating.

 

[Cardston]

I've contacted 2 different dry ice blasting since last Friday and both said they don't have very good success when trying to remove old powder coat. I think sandblasting the parts is not a good option due to the media residue that get's left behind. I wouldn't want anything in the crank case or oil reservoir to cause damage. So it looks like my only option at this point is soda blasting, but I can't get a hold of the only local guy that soda blasts. He never picks up the phone and hasn't returned my calls since last Saturday...

Anyone have experience re-powdercoating a saw?? Would love some advice...

I've stripped, cleaned and repainted 2 of the 3 parts of the muffler. Used Rust-Oleum High Heat paint.

Still in the process of cleaning up the third muffler part. I kind of like the bare metal look.

Flywheel is ready go. Spent nearly an hour cleaning it up with solvent, Q-tips and compressed air.

And the first of the replacement parts have begun to trickle in. I scored a find on the bar. One of my local Stihl dealers still had a Wood Boss logo bar. I don't think they are made anymore although I think it's just a Rollomatic E, with the different logo on it. But it should look good on a 028 WB, at least until it's cut a cord of wood or so

 

[Gravedigger]

love reading rebuilds

 

[HD2010]

Looks great man.

PM sent on manuals.

 

[Cardston]

Looks great man.

PM sent on manuals.

Thanks!

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Get ahold of glock37 (member here). He has a fleet of Stihls that he powder coated in his brother's shop. I saw them at the Pa. GTG and they are nice!

 

[Cardston]

Get ahold of glock37 (member here). He has a fleet of Stihls that he powder coated in his brother's shop. I saw them at the Pa. GTG and they are nice!

Right on... gracias!

 

[towingace]

Good thread! My first build was also a 028. I can't believe that saw of yours ran at all with that fuel line! Also, considering all that rolling around in the truck, it looks pretty darn good (truck had a plastic bedliner maybe)? The 42mm was the earliest version, then they increased the bore to 44mm, the Super's have a 46mm bore. I built my saw out of three donors plus a p/c off of evil-bay and, like has already been stated, there's lots of variations. For example, I almost didn't notice that the 42mm wrist pin was shorter than the 44mm one! I stihl run that saw, like was said, they are very reliable. I've got quite a few parts left over, actually parts are everywhere for them. As for that bar you found, if it was me, I wouldn't put a scratch on it! Most guys on here aren't into "Chip Foose" type appearance (I said most), but that bar would complement your powder coat job, nicely. Anyway, nice job of posting pics, and welcome.

 

[glock37]

Saw looks good You doing besrings seals gaskets rings Port it ?

 

[Cardston]

Duane(Pa) turned me on to glock37 for the powdercoating. Thanks Duane! Mike (nice guy) and I spoke on the phone last night about what I was looking for. The work he did on blsnelling's 041G is amazing. Take a look at the finished saw on page 6. It's exactly what I am looking for. So this morning I bubble wrapped all the parts and sent them off to lovely Pennsylvania. He'll be doing the tank/handle, crankcase, both the clutch and starter cover. I also sent the handle for some new glossy black PC. After looking at the muffler for awhile last night I decided I want to go with the bare metal look, or at least see what it looks like once bead blasted. So all three parts of the muffler went too.

In sending the parts, I wanted to make it as easy to blast and powder coat as possible, so I pulled off all the parts that can be replaced. It took some work to get the carburetor bolts off the fuel tank/handle. I added some heat with a torch and they finally came free. I also pulled the starter bushing out of the starter cover. Less stuff to mask off on the parts.

On the inside of the clutch cover I pulled the rivets and removed the parts there too. It may have been a mistake destroying the inner side plate. I don't see it on the IPL, and can't find a part #.

All of the pieces look pretty good for new powdercoat once they've been bead blasted except for the clutch cover. There were some pretty deep groove/gouges on the rim around the bar bolt holes and along the front and bottom edges. So I went to town with a file and 220 wet/dry and cleaned it up a little. I couldn't get rid of the gouges above the bolt holes completely without removing more material than I wanted, but once PC'd it should be barely noticeable.

Cleaned up the bottom of the handle a bit too

Starter cover is in very good shape.

The starter bushing is out.

 

[Cardston]

It will be a couple weeks before I get the parts back from powdercoating, so there won't be much happening in this thread for awhile. I've been able track down all but three of the replacement parts I need. I have an email in to Stihl to help me determine the correct part numbers. I'm working off an IPL that is dated 07/2004 and it doesn't show any of the 42mm bore parts or numbers that are specific to the early model that I have.

About 2/3 of the parts I need are still (amazingly) available from Stihl. It's taken some detective work to find the obsolete parts, I've tracked them down on eBay or from dealers that have old stock.

I've decided to replace most of the bolts & screws on the saw. The majority of the original bolts & screws are slotted. There are a few hex heads too, but I'm converting all to Torx for the sake of consistency.

New parts!

 

[glock37]

42 mm bore not 44 mm


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[Cardston]

42 mm bore not 44 mm

???

 

[glock37]

I m workin on a 028 and it 44 mm i didnt think 028 where 42 check piston and cyl again.


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[glock37]

I check there is a 42 mm 028 if cant find one go with a 44 or 46 mm jug and piston


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[Cardston]

Cleaning up some parts this morning.... While using a stainless wire wheel to clean up one of the AV mounts, I was struck by the quality of this part. 12 gauge steel, 34+ years old. Looks brand new and ready to go back on the saw with the new torx bolts.