Stihl 034 Ring End Gap.

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Don't underestimate how much I have learned from all the questions you ask --- You seem to get some very experienced members making some very informative answers.
AND THAT IS WHAT MAKES THIS SITE SO GREAT.
(Take that as a thanks for posting from me)
Thanks :) yes there are some incredibly helpful and kind people here that have been amazing in sharing! In fact one member I have met here, we chat daily and are on the phone for at least an hour and a half each time a few times a week. I’m honoured to call him my friend and very much indebted to him and how he has helped me so much with not just growth with chainsaws, but also personal growth too.
 
I Wasn't connecting the Mag rot from a different thread and this thread didn't explain why this saw does not warrant new parts...
Until now ....... connecting the dots ... helps.
I really like my 034 ( No rot) and I do consider it a "sought" after saw.
As for the sought after comment. I could be very wrong. I have just seen quite a few AV’s and I would love an 034 AV super but I can’t find them anywhere. That’s my basis for thinking it’s not really sought after. My thought process is lacking in substance there when I think about it! Take what I say with a pinch of salt!
 
Thank you @pioneerguy600 .

Early on, I always trusted Lakeside 53, aka Andy. He not only worked on more saws than any of us, but was a machinist too. His 0.005-0.008" seems right, except for really small/big saws.

Is your 0.006" safe zone for ~50-80cc?

I've done 2- 4- bikes , cars, tractors,...... But always want to know more....

That is a yes for all the saws I have worked on, 50 - 80 cc that have ring locating pins in the pistons. On the 100 cc and up saws I would move that up to .008 - .009 due to the heat buildup in the bigger saw barrels, they often run longer in the cut than smaller barrel saws. There is often much debate over ring construction materials and their expansion rates. I have stuck mostly with the limits of ductile iron rings but have been safe on all the rebuilds I have performed.
 
Excuse my ignorance - I’m pretty new to all this! If there is nothing wrong with the rings and they are within tolerance, why replace them, especially on a saw that isn’t worth investing new parts into?

Here is the deal, the old rings will have to re seat so they will wear some then. Rings are cheap, my time is not
 
Is the cylinder good if not make it a 036.
Haha nothing is good on this saw :p if I change to 036, then I have to change the top cover and muffler. Again, if the saw was in good shape originally I would, but not this one! Going to try and soften the step caused by the chipped nikasil using a dremel and sanding drum attachment and call it good I think.
 
having owned a cheap dremel for years and always found it fantastically useful, I brought a variable speed one with more power and the little flex shaft and some cutting bits to sort that chip out and know how useful it will be on so many other future projects47BE5F70-AADA-4C03-AB1E-76C0A2307FE6.jpeg
 
Rule of thumb is normally 4 thou for every inch of bore. I just did an ms 250, the rings showed a gap of 6 thou out of the package, I left them as they were. Compression was 150 psi before breaking in. A Husqvarna 50 showed a compression of only 120, I checked the gap, it was 20 thou, the ring was worn out. A new ring brought it back up to 150 as well. The gap on that one was around 7 thou.
 
That is a yes for all the saws I have worked on, 50 - 80 cc that have ring locating pins in the pistons. On the 100 cc and up saws I would move that up to .008 - .009 due to the heat buildup in the bigger saw barrels, they often run longer in the cut than smaller barrel saws. There is often much debate over ring construction materials and their expansion rates. I have stuck mostly with the limits of ductile iron rings but have been safe on all the rebuilds I have performed.

Thank you.

You are one of the "old" but not crusty, yet, people we count on.

best, MP
 
Thank you.

You are one of the "old" but not crusty, yet, people we count on.

best, MP

I can tell you what has made so many of the older members ,crusty. They see so much misinformation posted that they just don`t want to argue with others about it, become disillusioned and really don`t care any more, most just leave,move on but the ones left go quiet til they see something they just can`t let go, then the crustiness comes out. This problem often gets discussed among the old hands and we know there is no recourse, this is an open site where everyone can post, the info is worth what one pays for it.
 
Ok here are the ring gap results

Top Ring @ TDC = 0.40mm / 0.16”
Top Ring @ BDC = 0.45mm / 0.18”


Bottom Ring @ TDC = 0.40mm / 0.16”
Bottom Ring @ BDC = 0.40mm / 0.16”

seeing as this saw will see little or any use apart from starting and tuning as I have an ms 260 pro and an Stihl 039 both with brand new top ends and total rebuilds I did, I’ll probably push these rings out a touch further. I’m reusing all the bearings everywhere, a 4 corner scored piston (that I have very gently filed any high spots on) and as much as I can of the rest of the saw as the saw just isn’t worth it to me to invest in in the condition it was with mag rot etc, chipped cylinder, scored piston. I’ll likly learn to port on this saw one day, so I’ll pop a new piston and rings on then, maybe when an 034av super top end comes my way.
 
Ok here are the ring gap results

Top Ring @ TDC = 0.40mm / 0.16”
Top Ring @ BDC = 0.45mm / 0.18”


Bottom Ring @ TDC = 0.40mm / 0.16”
Bottom Ring @ BDC = 0.40mm / 0.16”

seeing as this saw will see little or any use apart from starting and tuning as I have an ms 260 pro and an Stihl 039 both with brand new top ends and total rebuilds I did, I’ll probably push these rings out a touch further. I’m reusing all the bearings everywhere, a 4 corner scored piston (that I have very gently filed any high spots on) and as much as I can of the rest of the saw as the saw just isn’t worth it to me to invest in in the condition it was with mag rot etc, chipped cylinder, scored piston. I’ll likly learn to port on this saw one day, so I’ll pop a new piston and rings on then, maybe when an 034av super top end comes my way.
Rings are cheap, new cabers for around $15, American, well worth the cost. JM HO.
 
Caber is out of stock here in OZ I can't find anyone. Could import, but would rather wait. I'm going into my dealer to discuss a deal on thursday, he hasn't gone into detail yet, but he may have some saws for me and has some vintage ones too. Will see what the deal is and what saws he has and make a final decision. Something awesome may pop into my lap or maybe some parts saws there that I could use.
 

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