Stihl 036 Pro

[pgg]

036 is buzzy after running spring-loaded saws but they're indestructible workhorse type,

three extra holes drilled in the muffler adds more kick, 18" bar is best balance agility and weight,

unless you're forced to cut thru 20" logs all the time with only 60cc, the 20" bar better suits the 044.

036 will run longer stuff but a 16" log is where 60cc starts to drag a bit,

the 044 stomps the 036 on 16"+ logs and trees, the 70cc has heaps more grinding

torque when the going gets hard. 036 is perfect all-rounder that does anything the 70cc does(just a bit more effort required),

annihilates any 50cc and is about best power to weight ratio out there. (50cc hot-rodders no boasting OK) lol

 

[Brian_42]

I emailed the seller and asked how he knew it was a "Pro" model, he claimed it had the "Pro" sticker on it, but since has worn off... Did the older Stihl 036 Pro's not have the decompression valve? If not, what made them different? After a few emails back in forth with the seller, it appears that it's an older model, he's had it for a very long time, stated that it runs great, and I'll be very satisfied. I am VERY anxious to get this saw...

 

[William Balaska]

It's probably just an 036 if it dosen't have the decomp and compensating carb, but relax for $200 you can sell it for a profit if you don't like it, as a clean one is $350 all day long. A rebuildable 36 bring $150 they still have a loyal following.

 

[Brian_42]

From what I've learned on this site, I'll be just as happy with an 036, seller claims it runs great... I used an 034 all last fall/winter for firewood, and loved it, wanted to try Dolmar, and sold it. I liked the Dolmar, but not nearly as much as the 034. If I like this half as much as my 034, I'll take it to my grave....

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[Brian_42]

Not exactly as described

Well, it's not as pretty as I'd like it to be, but it starts, runs, and idles good. That being stated, I believe I've been taken on this one... The chain-brake doesn't work, it NEEDS the upgrade kit, as the bearing is shot, it is not the Pro model, and the handlebar is broken in two places. This sucks. I've contacted the buyer and asked why this was not listed as "parts or repair", and requested a partial refund. Maybe this won't end up as bad as I expect it to, but I'm not holding my breath on this one... I'll pics posted after I get it cleaned up and presentable, can't bring myself to take pics right now...

 

[Brian_42]

I contacted the seller, he is refunding some compensation money my way. Maybe it's not such a bad deal after all... The nice thing about tearing apart, repairing/upgrading, is you know exactly what you have. Upgrade kit for the bearing/sprocket/drum has been ordered (many thanks for the posting with the part number), used handle-bar ordered, and a new brake band ordered. When I get her presentable, pics will be posted...

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[Brian_42]

Got it together...

View attachment 242249View attachment 242250View attachment 242251View attachment 242252

Everything arrived today, the brake band, handle, upgrade kit (drum, rim sprocket, bearing, clip), and new rear cover. I got everything together in about fifteen minutes, spent the following thirty cutting cookies in the back yard, saw runs very strong, couldn't be happier... Great saw, even if it isn't a "Pro"... I spread a thin layer of epoxy accross the bottom of the rear handle where it was broken, drilled a few holes, and rivitted a piece of alluminium in place on the bottom, should outlast the rest of the saw...

 

[rwoods]

Happy that it worked out for you. Ron

 

[elwoodps]

Everything arrived today, the brake band, handle, upgrade kit (drum, rim sprocket, bearing, clip), and new rear cover. I got everything together in about fifteen minutes, spent the following thirty cutting cookies in the back yard, saw runs very strong, couldn't be happier... Great saw, even if it isn't a "Pro"... I spread a thin layer of epoxy accross the bottom of the rear handle where it was broken, drilled a few holes, and rivitted a piece of alluminium in place on the bottom, should outlast the rest of the saw...

That really cleaned up nice Brian.

That's a job you can be proud of. I think you'll feel sense of satisfaction every time that you use that saw, that would be lacking if you'd received it in that shape. And getting the seller to bear part of the cost is just the icing on the cake. :msp_thumbup:

 

[Brian_42]

That really cleaned up nice Brian.

That's a job you can be proud of. I think you'll feel sense of satisfaction every time that you use that saw, that would be lacking if you'd received it in that shape. And getting the seller to bear part of the cost is just the icing on the cake. :msp_thumbup:

Thanks, I have close to $250 in it now, even with the partial refund, but it starts easy, runs strong, and I get a smile when I'm cutting with it... going to hang on to this one for a while.

 

[roostersgt]

Thanks, I have close to $250 in it now, even with the partial refund, but it starts easy, runs strong, and I get a smile when I'm cutting with it... going to hang on to this one for a while.

You did well. Considering what a new comparable saw would cost you, not to mention the power / quality compared to what you just acquired. It's hard to beat an older Stihl 036 saw without stepping up to a 70+cc saw. Even then, there's a definite weight gain/power ratio to consider. Even at $250+ you did well. That saw will last you a long time and is capable of cutting most of the stuff firewood cutters encounter.

 

[Cantdog]

I have an 036 Pro sitting at the shop that I rebuilt for a client.....he paid me for the work quickly but did not pick up the saw..... before I could get to the bank with his check the gummint cleaned out his accounts for failure to pay certain payments that he was required to make....so it sits at my shop waiting as it has since the first of last Dec. This saw had a toasted P&C...I thought I would be able to save the cyl but after a lot of acid and rubbing it stihl had four tiny fingernail catching scratches above the Ex port. So I scrounged around Ebay and found a NOS P&C for $220.00 delivered (Bailey's wanted $340.00 plus shipping) I partially assembled the saw and did a pressure/vac test to make sure the seals were not the original issue.....the flywheel side seal was useless...couldn't even develop any vac at all!!! So here was the problem that killed this saw. For those who do not know, the flywheel side seal is a very tiny wimpy seal compared to the clutch side seal. (I replaced both). I am not a Stihl guy by any means but the saw cut good and pulled as strong as any stock pro series 60cc saw I have run and looked perhaps 90%. The bill is quite steep and if this guy can't come up with the cash by the end of the summer I am going to have him cut me a bill of sale and sell it. My only advise to the OP or any others who have these series saws....is...if they start to lean out...any..or start to run funny.....that can't be quickly traced to a fuel problem (line, filter carb kit) do a vac test and make sure the seals are good...believe me.. it will be time/money well spent.

 

[elwoodps]

... For those who do not know, the flywheel side seal is a very tiny wimpy seal compared to the clutch side seal...

I'd seen others warn about flywheel side seal leaks on certain Stihl models (026/MS 260 comes to mind). Now I understand the reason.

Thanks Cantdog! :msp_smile:

 

[morgaj1]

Good job on that saw. As someone else said, you will have more pride in that saw now that you returned it to working order. I did the same with an old Stihl stick edger. I bought it well-used from a pawn shop for cheap. I used it for several years and then it started losing power. A new set of rings, p/c clean up and it is now working as well as new. It is ugly and not as powerful as the new ones, but I smile everytime I use it.

 

[Brian_42]

Thanks for all the compliments, I normally put more time and effort into detail. Maybe I'll do a little more as cutting season approaches. I was surprised to see a plastic handle on the saw when it arrived... Much happier with the aluminium replacement.

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[nstueve]

From what I've learned on this site, I'll be just as happy with an 036, seller claims it runs great... I used an 034 all last fall/winter for firewood, and loved it, wanted to try Dolmar, and sold it. I liked the Dolmar, but not nearly as much as the 034. If I like this half as much as my 034, I'll take it to my grave....

Which dolmar did you have???? it must not have been a 6401... LOL... After reading all the hype for the 036/360 I was surprised someone didn't already kill the mood by saying the 6401 dolkita is better. Any way you want to look at it, having a 64cc saw with a possible $100 upgrade to 84cc is better IMHO. Don't get me wrong I do love a good Stihl... In fact I'm rebuilding the 036pro right now so I have a back up to my 6401 w/bb kit. Thus the reason to read the thread. I'll probably have $225 in my fully rebuilt 036pro once I'm done... $200-$250 is still a good deal on these saws in good running condition.

I have an 036 Pro sitting at the shop that I rebuilt for a client.....he paid me for the work quickly but did not pick up the saw..... before I could get to the bank with his check the gummint cleaned out his accounts for failure to pay certain payments that he was required to make....so it sits at my shop waiting as it has since the first of last Dec. This saw had a toasted P&C...I thought I would be able to save the cyl but after a lot of acid and rubbing it stihl had four tiny fingernail catching scratches above the Ex port. So I scrounged around Ebay and found a NOS P&C for $220.00 delivered (Bailey's wanted $340.00 plus shipping) I partially assembled the saw and did a pressure/vac test to make sure the seals were not the original issue.....the flywheel side seal was useless...couldn't even develop any vac at all!!! So here was the problem that killed this saw. For those who do not know, the flywheel side seal is a very tiny wimpy seal compared to the clutch side seal. (I replaced both). I am not a Stihl guy by any means but the saw cut good and pulled as strong as any stock pro series 60cc saw I have run and looked perhaps 90%. The bill is quite steep and if this guy can't come up with the cash by the end of the summer I am going to have him cut me a bill of sale and sell it. My only advise to the OP or any others who have these series saws....is...if they start to lean out...any..or start to run funny.....that can't be quickly traced to a fuel problem (line, filter carb kit) do a vac test and make sure the seals are good...believe me.. it will be time/money well spent.

What did you use to pull the tiny case seal on the flywheel side? I've been doing 026's and have had problems getting them out... I have a couple more 026's and my 036pro to rebuild so wondering how people are pulling them? On bigger seals a small drilled in hole and a screw usually works but the 026/036 seal is almost too small for that technique...


PS: To the OP,
Are you going to get the 360 cylinder cover to match the air filter cover? Don't know if anyone else spotted the mis-matched pair of covers...

 

[Brian_42]

Funny you should ask, as I'm watching ebay for a good deal on one as I write this... The Dolmar I had was a 5100S, sold that and kept my 346XP... kinda partial to that saw...

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[Brian_42]

Which dolmar did you have???? it must not have been a 6401... LOL... After reading all the hype for the 036/360 I was surprised someone didn't already kill the mood by saying the 6401 dolkita is better. Any way you want to look at it, having a 64cc saw with a possible $100 upgrade to 84cc is better IMHO. Don't get me wrong I do love a good Stihl... In fact I'm rebuilding the 036pro right now so I have a back up to my 6401 w/bb kit. Thus the reason to read the thread. I'll probably have $225 in my fully rebuilt 036pro once I'm done... $200-$250 is still a good deal on these saws in good running condition.



What did you use to pull the tiny case seal on the flywheel side? I've been doing 026's and have had problems getting them out... I have a couple more 026's and my 036pro to rebuild so wondering how people are pulling them? On bigger seals a small drilled in hole and a screw usually works but the 026/036 seal is almost too small for that technique...


PS: To the OP,
Are you going to get the 360 cylinder cover to match the air filter cover? Don't know if anyone else spotted the mis-matched pair of covers...

The issue I'm finding is all the MS360's have a place for a decomp valve, and my saw doesn't, it may just stay the way it is... Maybe I'll look for another 036 cover that's in better condition with less fading.

 

[Cantdog]

Which dolmar did you have???? it must not have been a 6401... LOL... After reading all the hype for the 036/360 I was surprised someone didn't already kill the mood by saying the 6401 dolkita is better. Any way you want to look at it, having a 64cc saw with a possible $100 upgrade to 84cc is better IMHO. Don't get me wrong I do love a good Stihl... In fact I'm rebuilding the 036pro right now so I have a back up to my 6401 w/bb kit. Thus the reason to read the thread. I'll probably have $225 in my fully rebuilt 036pro once I'm done... $200-$250 is still a good deal on these saws in good running condition.



What did you use to pull the tiny case seal on the flywheel side? I've been doing 026's and have had problems getting them out... I have a couple more 026's and my 036pro to rebuild so wondering how people are pulling them? On bigger seals a small drilled in hole and a screw usually works but the 026/036 seal is almost too small for that technique...


PS: To the OP,
Are you going to get the 360 cylinder cover to match the air filter cover? Don't know if anyone else spotted the mis-matched pair of covers...

Funny you should ask!! They are way down at the bottom a rather small. deep hole and very hard to get to without the special Stihl tool....I use a very long skinny screwdriver that I have made into numerous "special" tools over the yrs. I ground a nearly 90 degee tip on it and violate the seal so i can get behind the steel lip of the seal and pull that sucka out. It is a very tiny seal and very hard to get a hold on. If I were a Stihl guy I would definately buy the correct tool.

 

[Brian_42]

White and black caps

The next thing that is catching my eye, is the excessive wear on the oil and gas fill caps, what's the deal with the flip style white and black caps?
1: Will they work on my saw?
2: Do I want them or should I got with original style?
Thanks and have a great day, off to finish my chain-link fence...