Stihl 039 Good deal?

[muncybob]

Locally there is a Stihl 039 with a case and 7 extra chains(2 like new according to the ad)....$250. Seller states nothing wrong with it and runs great. If all is as stated it seems to me that this is a decent deal?

I plan to be cutting maybe 5 to 6 cords per year....probably up to medium sized tress since I don;t feel I have the experience to cut anything huge at this point. I have used a friends Jonesred 632 Super II and while I like the saw it's too heavy for me.

Is the 039 a good fit for a good price for me?

 

[HittinSteel]

Seems like a decent fit for your application. I owned an 039 at one time and it ran a 20" bar very well, especially after opening up the muffler. I believe I sold mine for $250 and it looked like this

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=102141&highlight=craigslist+039.

If everything checks out and it runs strong (I'd do a compression test if you have the ability, which should be 145 or better) I'd offer $200.

 

[Saw Dr.]

:agree2:

If he has good quality chains, they're $20 each. Some are probably ready for the scrap bin. I bet there is at least $60 worth of chains there.

I would check a few things on that saw:

1. Look at the orange rear handle where it meets the flat bottom plate. Just in front of where the handle meets the bottom plate, those handles can crack there if dropped. If it is cracked it will break off eventually. That handle is replaceable so this is not a deal breaker, but good ammo for negotiating the price down. I have 3 or 4 of those broken handles in my scrap bin right now.
2. Pull the bar cover, bar, and chain off. Have a look at the plastic case around the edges of the metal clutch drum. If it is deformed and black, the saw has been run with the brake on. Price should be considerably reduced if a melted case is found.
3. Take an 8mm or 5/16" 6 point socket with you and a little tube of oil. Before starting the saw, oil and remove the 3 nuts holding the muffler on, and remove the muffler. Have a look at the piston to check for scoring. Brown or black discoloration is not a deal breaker, but vertical gouges and rings sticking is. If the piston is scored, you are basically buying a bar and chain. Even if it runs now, it probably won't last long with a scored piston.
4. Start and run the saw. Once warmed up, it should idle as long as you want it to without fiddling on the trigger. The chain should have a very slight or no creep while at idle. Sometimes this series has a bit of a "jingle" from the clutch at idle. Retainers and springs are cheap and usually fix this problem, but again a good bargaining chip. While holding the saw with it running, briskly tip it left side up and let it sit for several seconds to see if it quits. Now tip it bar side up and wait. If it stalls on either side, I would suspect crank seals need replacing.
5. If you have the equipment to do a compression check, make sure the gauge has a schrader valve at the tip where it screws into the cylinder head. I always test the compression when hot on a saw I am considering purchasing. (the number will be lower when hot, possibly grounds for lowering the price)

Good luck. Post pics if you get it!

 

[HittinSteel]

Very nice B200......basically a step by step guide to buying a used saw.