Stihl 044 chain saw problems

[r0858]

Thanks Bob. I was searching post, but didnt make it to that one yet.
The post that you and others make have saved lots of people thousands of dollars. Keep posting please.

Sometimes I wonder why I even bother to post. Here's a link to show you how to fit the 460bb. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=89083&highlight=worklog

 

[jd548esco72]

if the old saw is starting,cutting and pulling good reconsider the compression test as it could be off buy a number of lbs.

the 044 series of saws are great for rebuilding and general hot-rodding.they really respond to a mild port job and a more open muffler/exhaust.

if the compression is a bit low --the 044s do very well with just a ring replacement that is if the piston & bore are not scuffed. many times one can just hone the jug and replace the piston & rings for a economical rebuild.

if you got to have more cc's the 046/460 jug& piston can be made to fit with minimal fitting.

the aftermarket big bore kit is a bolt on deal for the same displacement as the 046.

and if you really want big cc's the 460 aftermarket big bore can be made to work without too much extra work. you will however have to clearance the piston to the crankcase. this takes some cutting on the crankcase--not much 2mm or so has to be trimmed.


i have one 044 that is running the factory 460 piston and jug with a mild port. and am in the process of building another with the same used 046/460 parts.

one of these days when i have to tear down a 044 all the way i'll try the 460 BB 83.4 cc kit.

but the ported opened muffler stihl 460 jug& piston swap is making more than enough power for me. so it will be a while before i do the 83cc bit.

the 044 is flexible --it just is more about what you want. the 044 can do it.

 

[flyboy]

You might want to get the saw functioning properly 1st.

Next do incramental steps like MOD the muffler. Polish the ports. Lower the squish. Widen, and polish the ports. Put on a big bore. Polish the big bore. Widen and polish the big bore. Change the port timing. Put on a tuned pipe.

Doing things incramentally, you may find the gains you desire at a simple no-cost step (like muffler mod) and it will give you more time to get aquainted with working on your saw.

If you are looking for a wild saw, it may be cheaper to sell the 044 (to me cheap, since it isn't working ) and go buy an MS880.....

 

[r0858]

Yes your suggestion will help me to learn to work on my own saw. I hate to think what the labor rate is at a Stihl dealer is now days, lol

You might want to get the saw functioning properly 1st.

Next do incramental steps like MOD the muffler. Polish the ports. Lower the squish. Widen, and polish the ports. Put on a big bore. Polish the big bore. Widen and polish the big bore. Change the port timing. Put on a tuned pipe.

Doing things incramentally, you may find the gains you desire at a simple no-cost step (like muffler mod) and it will give you more time to get aquainted with working on your saw.

If you are looking for a wild saw, it may be cheaper to sell the 044 (to me cheap, since it isn't working ) and go buy an MS880.....

 

[r0858]

I dont have to have all those cc, but just thought Id do it while I had it torn down. Any problems or tricky things I should look out for while Im doing this?

if the old saw is starting,cutting and pulling good reconsider the compression test as it could be off buy a number of lbs.

the 044 series of saws are great for rebuilding and general hot-rodding.they really respond to a mild port job and a more open muffler/exhaust.

if the compression is a bit low --the 044s do very well with just a ring replacement that is if the piston & bore are not scuffed. many times one can just hone the jug and replace the piston & rings for a economical rebuild.

if you got to have more cc's the 046/460 jug& piston can be made to fit with minimal fitting.

the aftermarket big bore kit is a bolt on deal for the same displacement as the 046.

and if you really want big cc's the 460 aftermarket big bore can be made to work without too much extra work. you will however have to clearance the piston to the crankcase. this takes some cutting on the crankcase--not much 2mm or so has to be trimmed.


i have one 044 that is running the factory 460 piston and jug with a mild port. and am in the process of building another with the same used 046/460 parts.

one of these days when i have to tear down a 044 all the way i'll try the 460 BB 83.4 cc kit.

but the ported opened muffler stihl 460 jug& piston swap is making more than enough power for me. so it will be a while before i do the 83cc bit.

the 044 is flexible --it just is more about what you want. the 044 can do it.

 

[GPETER]

Any problems or tricky things I should look out for while Im doing this?

Yeah watch out because it may cost more to do all these mods than you expect!

Just remember to search here and read up before diving into a particular procedure. There is literally tons of info on the 044 here - you have come to the right place!

 

[bitzer]

Thanks Bob. I was searching post, but didnt make it to that one yet.
The post that you and others make have saved lots of people thousands of dollars. Keep posting please.

Hey not trying to single you out. It happens a lot. Hopefully the problem is in your tester. Even if the p&c look immaculate, throw a new ring on the piston and you can try your hand at a muff mod. Just make sure you pull the limiter caps and richen it up to a good four stroke. You can also use a sealant instead of the base gasket to get more compression. Make sure you check the squish though and that the piston will turn over without the gasket. I suggest doing a lot of reading in the saw building 101 forum. Porting of the saw will give it an extra 10-15ccs+ in power, even more can be had than that though.

 

[r0858]

Ive printed out 50 pages on the subject so far, so I will have a pretty good start[

QUOTE=bitzercreek1;1945744]Hey not trying to single you out. It happens a lot. Hopefully the problem is in your tester. Even if the p&c look immaculate, throw a new ring on the piston and you can try your hand at a muff mod. Just make sure you pull the limiter caps and richen it up to a good four stroke. You can also use a sealant instead of the base gasket to get more compression. Make sure you check the squish though and that the piston will turn over without the gasket. I suggest doing a lot of reading in the saw building 101 forum. Porting of the saw will give it an extra 10-15ccs+ in power, even more can be had than that though.[/QUOTE]

 

[Djbaker044]

Hi. I just joined this site so I don't know exactly how this works. I recently purchased an 044 stihl and was trying to figure out if it has the 10mm or 12mm wrist pin. The serial number is 134958383 any help with this would be great

 

[flyboy]

Hi. I just joined this site so I don't know exactly how this works. I recently purchased an 044 stihl and was trying to figure out if it has the 10mm or 12mm wrist pin. The serial number is 134958383 any help with this would be great

12mm started with serial number x29 382 283, you have a 12mm wrist pin (unless someone previously changed the crank to the older style).

 

[Adirondackstihl]

So am I assuming correctly that my 044 with serial # 129355769 is a 10mm?
Someone here(cant remember who) also said that if the cooling fins were "angled" (mine are) on top of the cylinder that it was an indication of a 10mm pin

 

[kr5258]

So am I assuming correctly that my 044 with serial # 129355769 is a 10mm?
Someone here(cant remember who) also said that if the cooling fins were "angled" (mine are) on top of the cylinder that it was an indication of a 10mm pin

Yes, 12mm pins started with s/n X29382283.

This is what happens when you read only the last post. Question was already answered by flyboy and now I look/feel stupid.

 

[Djbaker044]

12mm started with serial number x29 382 283, you have a 12mm wrist pin (unless someone previously changed the crank to the older style).

Thanks. I'm kinda new to the stihl chainsaws. My dad has an 064 but it's just a little heavy to be carrying through the woods so recently I've been using a Makita 5200i and the stihl 044 is a great saw

 

[Aled rees]

Thanks Bob. I was searching post, but didnt make it to that one yet.
The post that you and others make have saved lots of people thousands of dollars. Keep posting please.

Hi I'm now to this sight and have a problem. I was given a stihl 044 with a 10mm pin and the cranck bearings are shoot and was thinking of having a play with the engine is there something I can do. Or do I need to just replace what I got. I do a lot of work on my saws but normally fit like for like. Any info would b gratefully appreciate

 

[ncsawguy]

well if I were you buy a new one. I just did what you did to my 044. once it was tore down a lot of thing where bad. if you are going to do all that bearings would need to be replaced. I used all oem parts on mine. you might spend a little more on the new saw but you know what your getting. I was lucky and found a new crankcase w/bearings from my dealer. but I got new rings, bearings,hoses, filter,clutch, tank housing, gasket set, manifold.. when mine was tore into the tank housing was broke. my cylinder was bad to. I myself are not to found of aftermarket parts. mastermind did mine he did an awesome job. if you want some pic I can send you some. but I used all oem parts it was rather costly even on ebay. I even got lucky on a new crankshaft.

 

[Slosh Posh]

I have an 044 that runs like a top, but the chain spins at idle speed, its been tuned properly so I took it apart to look at the clutch and 2 springs were gone, I bought a brand new clutch slapped it in an its no different, what else could make it do that? thanks much

 

[fearofpavement]

I have an 044 that runs like a top, but the chain spins at idle speed, its been tuned properly so I took it apart to look at the clutch and 2 springs were gone, I bought a brand new clutch slapped it in an its no different, what else could make it do that? thanks much

IF the chain is spinning at idle, it is because:

1. the clutch shoes are contacting the drum because the springs are weak, the clutch or drum are the incorrect ones or the idle speed is high enough to move the clutch shoes out from the retracted position.
2. The bearing is dry and or dragging causing the clutch drum to turn.
3. There is debris in between the clutch shoes and clutch drum making contact.