Flippy caps only came on the MS designated saws, the 0 designated saws did not come with flippy caps. It was part and parcel of the MS series changeover that the flippy caps came standard on most models, the MS660 being the one that didn`t.
Stihl 046
- Thread starter a. palmer jr.
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If you are feeling adventurous the flywheel could be set a bit toward the spark retarded direction by moving the flywheel clockwise a few degrees, that would lessen the snap back a good bit.
buttercup
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And the grunt and coughing that makes engines so cool, I had a blood trimmed Ford escort 1,6 with double dellorto carbs and it stood coughing and spitting a couple of minutes after I turned of the ignition 
Sorry for the off topic... I'll make it right some day.
Sorry for the off topic... I'll make it right some day.
That';s why I was surprised that he said this "046" saw had flippy caps. You will find them with MS460 tank housings, I'm now working on an 026 with a fuel tank flippy cap. That tank housing must have come from an MS260.
Stihl likes to change numbers and a few parts just to confuse us older guys...
I'll see if one or two of the healthier guys can pull the saw over before I mess with the timing and compression but something probably will have to be done...
Can you see the numbers on the coil? OEM or AM ?
It is quite common for these saws to be called out incorrectly as little changed on them between the changeover other than the flippy caps and seeing the older 0 series saws with a replaced rear tank with flippy caps gets even more people confused to what they have.
drf255
BAD CAD
Is the flywheel a poly flywheel?
Does the coil have numbers on it’s side, viewable as you look at the flywheel/coil combo assembled?
The proper coil should have 1128 stamped on it and XXXX under that number (can’t recall right now-?1314). That’s the coil with the start retard feature. If it has a standard “dummy coil”, it will be a Beoch to start.
The poly flywheel should have a 1128 PN cast into it on the rear side. Is the key sheared?
Which “new” top end did you put on the saw?
If all is working well, grab a Husky Blue button 395 decomp valve. Worth every penny. They don’t pop nearly as fast as the Stihl ones do. I ported an 044/46 hybrid with around 200 PSI and was ready to put a D handle on that fugger it bit me so badly. The 044 come with the 1300 dummy coils.
Does the coil have numbers on it’s side, viewable as you look at the flywheel/coil combo assembled?
The proper coil should have 1128 stamped on it and XXXX under that number (can’t recall right now-?1314). That’s the coil with the start retard feature. If it has a standard “dummy coil”, it will be a Beoch to start.
The poly flywheel should have a 1128 PN cast into it on the rear side. Is the key sheared?
Which “new” top end did you put on the saw?
If all is working well, grab a Husky Blue button 395 decomp valve. Worth every penny. They don’t pop nearly as fast as the Stihl ones do. I ported an 044/46 hybrid with around 200 PSI and was ready to put a D handle on that fugger it bit me so badly. The 044 come with the 1300 dummy coils.
It's an AM module. I ordered the replacement for the 1314 after I mistakenly ordered the 1300 module. I have a feeling they may have sent me a 1300 and called it a replacement for the 1314 because they look just alike and I can't find any numbers on either one. I may take your earlier advice and try turning the flywheel clockwise about the width of the key and seeing if that helps any..Usually when I do this to a bigger saw it ends up slipping without the key and going out of time..
Yes, it does have the correct pt. # poly flywheel and last I checked the key wasn't sheared. I put the standard 52mm top end on it which was AM as the customer wanted. And it is a Beoch to start...
Have you tried cranking it with the ignition turned off?
I tried it when checking compression, seemed high in compression with release pulled out but I was unable to get a reading because it was so hard to pull...
Crank that nut down to at least 33 - 35 ft lbs, the flywheel won`t move after as long as the crank and wheel taper are clean and dry. Use a torque wrench if possible, its difficult for most to tighten a nut that tight as it feels like one is over tightening it with any other driver.
Did this to my o64 a while ago, still running keyless!
I have 44 of my 45 Stihl chainsaws running without keys, everything from 026`s through to the 070 and 090. The taper will hold a flywheel if its true, not scored up, and was put together clean and dry. Have used every type of solvent before assembly, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, acetone , white gas and even alcohol. As long as those tapers are clean and dry and the nut torqued down properly they won`t move.
You could actually take this advice one step further. The key only positions the flywheel and contributes almost nothing to holding it in place. The tapered shaft and the tightness of the nut do it all. I use a socket wrench along with an 18" pipe extension.
One time I tried dong it with the socket only and no pipe extension for added torque leverage. That's the only time the flywheel ever stripped the key and moved around on me. I learned my lesson after that.
Also running keyless on an 064-all good.
Previous post#34 mentions the torque required, a torque wrench is often long enough on its own without an extension added.
Agreed. But, if you have no torque wrench handy and instead a length of pipe, that is better than nothing. I learned that the hard way.
