There's still a few other things the 460 needs to be a viable chainsaw, not sure if the carburetor on it is any good, fuel was left in the saw and I don't know how fresh it is, etc..
Stihl 046
- Thread starter a. palmer jr.
- Start date
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FWIW, I am wondering if the two coil gaps are the same. I've been told that if they are really different, it could lead to a really rough cold engine start. You may wish to go back and check both gaps. Not sure if you have done that, but nothing was mentioned here. Both gaps should be set at about 0.010".
I skipped a page, so I might’ve missed it.
Is it an oem poly flywheel? Maybe it’s flooded and fuel in the case is making it tough to pull over.
A 372xp through 395 decomp has a larger hole and bleeds off more If all else fails
Is it an oem poly flywheel? Maybe it’s flooded and fuel in the case is making it tough to pull over.
A 372xp through 395 decomp has a larger hole and bleeds off more If all else fails
I was told by someone to set the coil to flywheel gap from about .010 to .014 so I set this one at .011.
Yes, it's the stock poly flywheel and I did put a Husqvarna decomp on it with a bigger hole than the Stihl had. I'll try to see how it does tomorrow, may have to have the wife hold the decomp down while I try to start it..
If the decomp is from the bigger XP saws, I don’t think you’ll have a problem with it holding itself open. I’ve seen high compression huskies that would shear the starter pawls off if you forgot to push the decomp in, but it would stay in throughout the initial pop on choke, and then would eventually close once the saw started on high idle. I suppose it could’ve been just the individual decomp, but I do know the ones larger huskies flow quite a bit more air in general
drf255
BAD CAD
I use a business card which is .020 I believe.
A tight coil cap is a cheater method to advance the timing slightly, and a bigger gap will retard it a bit.
Could have some relation to your starting problem, albeit minimal.
I'll widen it a hair before I try starting it today. If that fails I'll try the slight retard on the flywheel, if that also fails I may pile another base gasket on it...If all this fails then maybe a thief will break into my garage and it will magically disappear....I certainly don't want to pay the asking price for an OEM Stihl coil.
This one appears to be a 2 stage deal, it has a notch in between closed and open, or it could just be a factory defect
No, it looks like it went from one extreme to the other, not enough compression for it to start with the new valve, I pulled and pulled on it today with the valve open and it refused to fire or kick back. Guess I'm gonna have to look for another comp. release. I found a couple of new ones in the spare parts but they both have two holes and they're both kinda loose so it may or may not kick back when I try it, but I will.
Google outbushman here in Aust and see what his price is.
Great bloke to deal with and ships to usa.
I think the next thing I'm gonna do is try another decomp valve and see if it helps any. The mower shop had 2 more and I have 2 new ones and maybe one used one..I can always drill out the hole slightly in the original one, it seemed kinda cruddy inside, maybe it just needs cleaned out a bit..
Last 1314 coil I got Steal wanted $220.
Got it from OBM for $95.
I googled them and didn't see any coils for the 460. Maybe I didn't do it right?
Okay, I went out today and stayed with it until I got the thing to run! What I did was: changed the decomp valve to a two hole one I had in my spare parts, changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel line, adjusted the carb to about 1 1/4 turns out and set the timing back around 1/8" or so measured at the crankshaft, which is probably around 8-10 degrees? I pulled it several times, never did kick back but finally started and ran pretty good. Final adjustment of the carb and a hot start or two and I'm gonna consider it finished. I still have a cylinder cover coming so the customer isn't getting it back probably until next week. Thanks for the replies, guys!
