That's an M8 nut with spec torque of 24 ft-lbs. Have you ever had any problems using 33-35 ft-lbs? The M10 crankshaft nut has a 33 ft-lbs spec torque.
Stihl 046
- Thread starter a. palmer jr.
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That's an M8 nut with spec torque of 24 ft-lbs. Have you ever had any problems using 33-35 ft-lbs? The M10 crankshaft nut has a 33 ft-lbs spec torque.
No problem.
How much set back should I give the flywheel?. I suggested about a key's thickness but should I set it back even further? I don't know how big and burly the guy is who will be starting this beast but I'd rather not take this apart too many times.
Guys I'm comfused. A lot of discusson here about retarding timing to get this thing to crank easier......but in post #33 he stated it was too hard to pull when taking a compression check. So, I'd be looking to determine if the cylinder has been decked and squish band machined or possibly the pull rope is too short. Sorry if I missed something here...but this is not sounding like a timing problem to me. Just sounds like crazy high compression.
drf255
BAD CAD
I use 26 ft/lbs on crank nuts. Never an issue.
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
Never an issue on Stihls, but I broke a 372 crank going for 30 once. That was a sad day.
Get a proper 1128 oem ignition and the Husky decomp like said above.
Get a proper 1128 oem ignition and the Husky decomp like said above.
A key`s width would tell you if its a timing issue that`s ripping the handle out of your hand. How it would run power wise after starting would be another question, might be alright but could lack power or even hamper reaching WOT.
I will agree with you that the saw has plenty of compression! I didn't know that high compression would make the rope snap back at you like this one does. I used to own an 044 without the de-comp valve and it kicked but you could drop-start it and get it going. Not true for this one. I'll try to find the Husqvarna 2 hole de-comp valve and see if it helps along with setting the timing back a bit..
BTW, the rope is plenty long, I just couldn't pull it enough to get a reading...the rope pulls easy with the spark plug out. I figured to get a good compression reading the de-comp valve must be pulled out, that's when I had trouble pulling it over. No machining has been done on the cylinder or case, at least by me...
Kinda what I thought. I figured it might also tell me if someone sold me the wrong coil...
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Would be nice to know the squish and compression and proper coil and also put in new elastostart with proper rope length, but if everything is correct, then sometimes you can adjust the distance from the coil to the flywheel to make it easier to start, use 2 business cards instead of one, and it will retard the spark just that tiny amount to get it to turn over instead of snap back....i had this with an old 066 and it was a bear to start, you would cringe in fear when pulling the rope
If it was mine it would already have the elasto start on it. I'll have to check today to see how much they want me to do to this bear...It has a new starter on it with a new rope, plenty long. I think the previous owner probably broke the old starter trying to start it..
Yes, that is my thinking also, best part is it costs nothing out of pocket and can be put back to original if wanting to. I try this kind of thing to prove to myself what is happening .
The Elasto Start helps but is not the cure all, I have 3 ripped through handles here that came off 066 and 064 saws, when these saws fire before the piston is up past 20 degrees BTDC they are nasty. A 394 with advanced timing is very nasty.
I just finished a Farmertec MS460. It had an extremely nasty kickback.
I ended up with an elastostart handle, the decomp bleed port drilled out to .060” and an OEM coil.
Piston crown clearance is .050” base gasket deleted.
It still has a strong kickback but manageable if one is determined enuff. [emoji2960]
I ended up with an elastostart handle, the decomp bleed port drilled out to .060” and an OEM coil.
Piston crown clearance is .050” base gasket deleted.
It still has a strong kickback but manageable if one is determined enuff. [emoji2960]
I went to the local mower shop and bought a new Husqvarna compression release valve, the one hole version, he only had those, not the two hole type. I installed it and pulled a few times easy and no kickback so I primed it through the carburetor and gave it a healthy drop-start and it kicked the crap out of me! It was better than the Stihl valve by a little so I'll keep it on for now but I may try measuring the hole on the valve and see if it needs drilled out. The Stihl one had a very tiny hole in the valve, the Husky much bigger. Someone needs to invent a manual comp release that the operator turns off like you do the choke.
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Hmm, not sure that's the best way to solve this, make sure the choke lever works, get a new plug so it starts, try the coil gap with 2 business cards its easy
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
I never use the compression release anyway
You would on this saw or you'd break the rope...I didn't spend much time on the 460 today, got another saw to rebuild, another 039 so I put the engine on it together while I'm figuring out the 460.
So can you tell a difference in the way it pulls with the ignition turned off vs turned on?
Yeah, it don't break your fingers with the ignition turned off! I'd send you a pic of my right hand but camera's batteries not working too good right now...I'll admit that last time (yesterday) I only gave it a token effort because I was working on something else at the time, just picked it up to see if new comp release was working and it kinda was. It pops back closed like the Stihl one but just not as quick...
