SawTroll
Information Collector
Looks like we are back to what I suggested in post #4.....
STIHL Mount Cannon Bar on a 288xp...... Pinching the chain???
- Thread starter LowVolt
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carldebjez
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi, I had the same issue with 2 new power match bars on 2 different 288's. But when using those same bars and chains on a 365 the chains spun freely. both 288's did not have the outer guide plate and I thought that was the issue, ie that I needed to shim the clutch cover out from the bar.
I had another 288 clutch cover that had a bit of wear on it where a loose chain had made its own relief, and that one did not bind the chain at all.
It was a while ago now but I think I touched up the other covers (that would bind the chains) with the dremel in one little spot to stop the binding.
Carl
I had another 288 clutch cover that had a bit of wear on it where a loose chain had made its own relief, and that one did not bind the chain at all.
It was a while ago now but I think I touched up the other covers (that would bind the chains) with the dremel in one little spot to stop the binding.
Carl
Homelite410
Hack with a CNC Mill
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Great thread fellaz!
Rx7man
Cattle Rubbing Post
Best way I could think of to determine where it's binding is to have a fairly slack chain, but tighten the bar nuts, then take a plier and find the exact location of the bind by pulling the drivers in and out, once you find out where the chain is binding, it'll help you find a solution to it.. Is the point where you have the correct tension on the chain fairly far out? That would make the pinch point where the cover clamps closer to the end of the bar, perhaps pinching it. Try clamping the bar down with the tension all the way released, lift one side of the chain until you have good tension, then try and roll it, swap sides and do it again.. a drive link less or bigger sprocket may fix it by pinching the bar in a different spot.. and after a while it'll wear in and won't matter anymore.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Another way to find friction points is to cover all suspect areas with ink from a non-permanent marker pen, and see where the ink gets rubbed away when moving the chain around the bar.
Looks like we are back to what I suggested in post #4.....
Winner winner!
I did not have any shim stock but I did have some stainless steel banding. We use it at work to mount speakers to poles. Anyways this stuff is .020 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide. I cut a small strip and drilled a couple holes in it.
Boom!
Boom!
I think you'll want to use a piece as large as the bar cover pad, except to not cover the bar rails. That way you'll have maximum clamping force.
That is the plan. I will just order another metal plate like the one that is between the bar and the case.
SawTroll
Information Collector
You could of course experiment with the thickness and/or leaving one of them out - but I don't think making them larger does any good.....
Or, you could just slightly relieve the bar cover.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
having that shim would not be acceptable to me. just another thing to lose or drop in the woods. thankfully for you that saw doesn't actually cut wood so it shouldn't be a problem LOL sorry rory. up early and saw the opportunity so just had to take it
LOL sorry rory. up early and saw the opportunity so just had to take it
having that shim would not be acceptable to me. just another thing to lose or drop in the woods. thankfully for you that saw doesn't actually cut wood so it shouldn't be a problem
Well that is a good point. If I would take one of these........
and trim it down where the bar grove starts, is that going to be adequate clamping force to hold the bar in place? Not ideal for sure. I also don't want to keep track of another piece while I am cutting but it is what it is at this point.
If it is pinching the chain I just wonder how this is happening? Is the case side or the clutch cover slightly concave causing the cover to be slightly tighter where the bar groove is?
As you mentioned, I would check to make sure it's flat. If so, I would simply relieve the bar cover outside that area by approximately .020" so that a plate isn't needed.
SawTroll
Information Collector
....or relieve what is needed.
As they said in the ol' days; There are several roads leading to Rome!
So take a dremel tool to the cover and remove material?
Put it on your Bridgeport
Oh yeah, it's right next to my Lamborghini.Put it on your Bridgeport
carldebjez
ArboristSite Lurker
I ended up ordering the outer bar guide which would have acted as the shim and given good contact between clutch cover and bar when it was tightened up. But in the time waiting for it, I did the relieving in the clutch cover.
But here is something else to consider. The same thing happened yesterday when putting the fairly new 28"power match bar on. What I think was happening was the rim sproket was floating on the shaft, too far off centre with the end of the guide bar. The chain was almost trying to go around a corner as it came off the end of the bar to the sproket.
But here is something else to consider. The same thing happened yesterday when putting the fairly new 28"power match bar on. What I think was happening was the rim sproket was floating on the shaft, too far off centre with the end of the guide bar. The chain was almost trying to go around a corner as it came off the end of the bar to the sproket.
bryanr2
Addicted to ArboristSite
From the pic, that saw looks mighty "clean". Got any better pics?
