Hundred Acre Wood
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I saw that you did, and I was agreeing with you.
But you also offered up .063 so I was just steering him towards the .325 .050 NK as the preferred choice for that saw, knowing that's what you meant.
Stihl MS 261 Vs. MS 362
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I saw that you did, and I was agreeing with you.
But you also offered up .063 so I was just steering him towards the .325 .050 NK as the preferred choice for that saw, knowing that's what you meant.
Post away, thats what we are all here for.
There are generally two types of cutters you can get on a chain, semi chisel or full chisel. Semi chisel will generally be on the "green" safety chain, and it will have a rounded corner. It cuts a little slower but will stay sharper longer.
Full chisel has a squared corner and cuts about 15% faster. It really wakes your saw up.
Then, for saws in your size range, they make some chains with narrower cutters (which is what they were talking about). This will also cut faster because you are removing less wood, but you have to be careful because the narrower kerf can pinch your bar more easily.
Over time try a few different things and see what you like. They often tell you that the yellow (faster cutting) chain is more dangerous, but if you pay attention and keep your chains sharp, I don't buy it! The possibility of kickback (if the tip of your bar touches something) is much greater if your chain is dull.
Full chisel has a squared corner and cuts about 15% faster. It really wakes your saw up.
Then, for saws in your size range, they make some chains with narrower cutters (which is what they were talking about). This will also cut faster because you are removing less wood, but you have to be careful because the narrower kerf can pinch your bar more easily.
Over time try a few different things and see what you like. They often tell you that the yellow (faster cutting) chain is more dangerous, but if you pay attention and keep your chains sharp, I don't buy it! The possibility of kickback (if the tip of your bar touches something) is much greater if your chain is dull.
The downfall of RSP is it's durability, it doesn't hold an edge as long as the standard .325..but it definitely cuts faster. I use both on the regular. It also pinches easier from it's narrow kerf and doesn't clear chips as good in bigger cuts..maybe not so great for someone with limited saw experience.
The more you cut, the more you will learn. We all had to go through the learning curve.
Same applies to sharpening the chain. So get out there and cut something already. lol
Same applies to sharpening the chain. So get out there and cut something already. lol
Amsoil here 40 to 1 no failures.
That saw also comes with one of the better air filter set ups vs my 362 or my 290
The advantage of pricey premix is when you store the saw for months because pump gas goes bad fast.
THIS is EXACTLY what I was looking for. All of the terminology had me confused. This was extremely helpful. Thank you for that very thorough explanation.
Im going to be different sence 70cc and 28-32" bars arent being conciderd and are the one saw plan to have im going to jump the other way.
Lets skip the 60cc class all together and get the 261 with 18 full 3/8 chain on it and just cut sone wood have 4 or 5 chains on hand and always have 2 sharp chains ready to go.
With the 18" you can limb willows to bucking nearly 40" wood.
Id also skip any quick chain tension gizmos thats just something to leave you broken and not cutting wood.
I see im alittle slow. You got the 18" great saw perfect bar size. The 20" if completly uneeded it is virtually the same as the 18" everything the 20 does so can the 18 with a couple less cutters to sharpen
Lets skip the 60cc class all together and get the 261 with 18 full 3/8 chain on it and just cut sone wood have 4 or 5 chains on hand and always have 2 sharp chains ready to go.
With the 18" you can limb willows to bucking nearly 40" wood.
Id also skip any quick chain tension gizmos thats just something to leave you broken and not cutting wood.
I see im alittle slow. You got the 18" great saw perfect bar size. The 20" if completly uneeded it is virtually the same as the 18" everything the 20 does so can the 18 with a couple less cutters to sharpen
Think you meant to quote me lol. Chasing a back cut, faster production.. same reason I wouldn't run the 400 with a 32" bar. Thats what the 90+cc saws are for.
As normal your bias toward a specific class of saw is evident.
Good choice on the 261. It's an excellent saw to start out on. In reality, its an excellent "small" saw for any 2 or 3 saw plan, or even great for a 1 saw plan depending on what you're normally cutting. It CAN cut wood that's 36" if you HAVE to, but you won't enjoy doing that. Even in hardwood, it's great for cutting "firewood" size stuff that's 12" and under. If you are commonly finding yourself in wood that's over 12", you will eventually want to add at least 1 bigger saw. If you end up needing to cut a fair amount of wood that's over 24", you will really want to look into a saw that's 70cc or bigger.
As far as why someone would be willing to spend more money for a faster saw, obviously felling trees is one application. The other thing to consider is when you're cutting for hours on end (especially if it's not what you normally do), the more it wears you out, the more prone you are to get distracted, make a mistake, and put your PPE to the test. Not as big of a deal if you're just cleaning up a few limbs after a storm, but if you're cutting firewood, or clearing land, it makes a noticeable difference in how much work you get done in a day, and how worn out you are at the end of it.
As far as why someone would be willing to spend more money for a faster saw, obviously felling trees is one application. The other thing to consider is when you're cutting for hours on end (especially if it's not what you normally do), the more it wears you out, the more prone you are to get distracted, make a mistake, and put your PPE to the test. Not as big of a deal if you're just cleaning up a few limbs after a storm, but if you're cutting firewood, or clearing land, it makes a noticeable difference in how much work you get done in a day, and how worn out you are at the end of it.
Exactly! And, the olderer you get the more you will agree with this!
Simple (but I'm sure that's subjective) question. Is there a hand file brand you recommend? I looked on Amazon and saw mixed reviews. I'm more of a buy once, cry once kinda guy so I'd prefer something that's going to last over the china stuff, if there's a better option. Thanks in advance
Speaking of ppe, I grabbed some of these for myself and my friend that will be helping me. I also got some carhartt overalls but the waist size doesn't factor in the gut so I'm getting a size bigger. I would post a pic but I don't wanna scare y'all off...
Chaps, since I don't have anything else cool to show
Speaking of ppe, I grabbed some of these for myself and my friend that will be helping me. I also got some carhartt overalls but the waist size doesn't factor in the gut so I'm getting a size bigger. I would post a pic but I don't wanna scare y'all off...
Chaps, since I don't have anything else cool to show
Save Edge was good but I think they stopped making them look around for any old stock.
What? i chose the smaller one isnt my norm, saw color doesnt matter..
I dont realy think a 2 3 4 saw plan is needed with a pair of different length bar's for each.
Im keeping the CAD real trying to keep to many from getting infected
Files are something that are just gonna wear out before we are ever satisfied with how long they last. I have been using Stihl brand files. I buy them by the dozen. The trick to good file life is using a wire brush to keep them clean of chips.
I don't like coveralls because they ride up your back side when you bend over.
I have the noassatall disease so riding up is better than down
Yeah, files are consumable. Id recommend using what ever your local shop carries. Stihl, Oregon, or Husky are fine. Pfred are probably just as good as well. Are there differences? Yes. Do they really make a difference? No.
