stihl ms 661 or husqvarna 390xp for a new saw

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I'd rather run a 390XP than an MS660 day after day......but like Mr M&R Tree said. The 661 is a cat of a different color.
The 661 is a unique saw, I've been using 372's and 390's for the last 10+ years, they are strong saws, love to be ported but ran every day, they fall apart.
Almost every day your losing bolts, coil wires screwing up and God knows what else.
So I decided to change colors and see what the 661 is all about. It is NOT the screaming beast Husky builds, but I've beat this saw for quite a while now and no loss of bolts, now brake levers falling off, no coil wire issues.
I haven't needed to put a new jug and slug on in camp yet either.
I guess it boils down to if you like maintenance, either will work, if you do not like to be inside your saw every other day, I really think Stihl has done good this time.
As far as weight, who really cares, the terrain we log here, the last thing we worry about is a pound or two.
 
Hi guys, I found this thread looking for comparisons on the 661 vs the 390xp as I'm going to be picking up a new saw in the next few weeks. I'm looking at a big saw as I'm going to be doing a fair bit of milling with cedar and don't want to be working the saw too hard (RIP my husky 55 because of that). I am also now considering the 395xp. These saws will not be used for any falling, just bucking and ripping/milling beams up to 20ft in length. Any recommendations on the 3 would be appreciated, especially the differences between the 390/395. I have been leaning towards the husky but the talk of loose bolts in some posts now has me considering the Stihl.


I'm going to be using this saw for volunteer trail building efforts and have been able to get about 15% off list from the dealer. However, if anyone happens to know the Husky or Stihl reps and if they could get them to send me a pm regarding pricing I would really appreciate it.
 
They all loose screws and what not, if you don't look after the saw properly. For milling the 395 will be more durable than the 390, and it will out torque a 661. Keep in mind you can't tune the carb on the 661 for milling, is this an issue? I really don't know, but I prefer to tune my saws, myself.
 
The extra oiler capacity and an outboard clutch would be enough to sway me towards a 395 over the other two for milling. I will admit the clutch thing is more paranoia than reality, but I like that there is less heat soak into the power head. There are enough 660's with a load of milling hours to show its not a huge problem.
 
I use a 3120 for milling, and haven't had any screws come loose. At work I run a stihl 362, and it kept loosing two recoil screws and the badge on the recoil. After the second time the screws fell out I put some blue locktight on them and any other fastener that didn't need to come off regularly. All those saws are good, if you are concerned about screws coming out, just locktight and check the torque on them when you buy it. That ten minutes of preventative maintenance will save a lot of cursing in the woods.
 
I bought a 661 on ebay represented as having been used for only a month in the woods. I doubt the air filter was ever cleaned and the bar wear indicated at least 6 months usage. Seemed to run ok after servicing but piston and rings are pretty scored. Cylinder doesnt look too bad as viewed from the exhaust port. Given the condition I'm considering having it ported by a pro but have no idea what it would cost. Can anyone help me out with some info? This is one of my retirement saws and sees only occassional use. I'd love to do it myself but I'm sure I'd still end up paying a pro to fix my screw ups.
 
Good advise I'm sure and I may end up doing just that. But I raced motorcycles for many years and have found that there is no such thing as too much HP. I may or may not get much practical advice on this forum but WTF.
 
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