Stihl ms250 clutch damage

[Car-guy2]

A coworker brought me his saw cause it wouldn't start. Dumped the old gas and in a couple minutes had it going. I noticed two things; it seemed lean on top, and the chain didn't want to stop at idle. I pulled the clutch cover and found the bearing and retainer missing from the drum. Removed it and the clutch had a broken shoe. Removed that and found that a piece had broken off one of the clutch guides and gotten under the large washer. Here's some pics of the parts and the case damage.

 

[Car-guy2]

My main question is do I need to replace this case? I don't know where the oil passages are at or if they've been damaged. The saw was oiling, but the tank was empty when he brought the saw. I've worked on a lot of saws, but this is my first experience with a clamshell. How difficult is this case half to remove?

 

[tickhound93]

The oil passage could very well be affected. I just did a case swap on a 250 last weekend with the same exact damage. The oil passage is directly in line with the oil pump. If the clutch drum did not rub all the way through, I would jb weld over the passage. If you need pics or held I can get them for you tomorrow. Its an easy fix.

 

[Car-guy2]

The oil passage could very well be affected. I just did a case swap on a 250 last weekend with the same exact damage. The oil passage is directly in line with the oil pump. If the clutch drum did not rub all the way through, I would jb weld over the passage. If you need pics or held I can get them for you tomorrow. Its an easy fix.

Thanks. Yeah I would like a pic showing where that oil passage is at. I'm gonna clean the case up after work tomorrow so I can get a better look.
Have you used the Chinese aftermarket clutch and sprocket? I don't like using chinese , but eBay has a kit that includes all the parts I need for around $16.00! Or maybe use the OEM clutch and aftermarket sprocket and bearing?
Also I'm a little worried about the crank seal under there. What's the best way to pull that seal without damaging anything else?

 

[tomdcoker]

The seal should not be damaged but, I am not there looking at the saw and you have to complete disassemble the saw to remove the seal. If you get the saw back together and it runs (idles, opens up and idles down) ok the seal is most likely good. Normally a saw will not idle consistently or return to idle as it should when it has an air leak. I can usually tell if a saw has an air leak without pressure testing but I have been repairing 2 cycle equipment for 12 years and I am still not right all the time.
I have a 028 Sthil that I rebuilt with a new piston and pressure/vacuum test (held 10 pounds) and it acts as if it has an air leak. The only thing I did not check was the fuel line and I will do that tomorrow. If that is not the trouble I will check the carb. again ( passages forum height and passages). I have rebuilt several 025/250 saws and have a couple to rebuild if I get to them. If you have any more questions and do not get an answer her message me and I will try to help. Tom

 

[tickhound93]

I will get a pic today for you. Yes I have used the Chinese clutches, and had no issues. Crank seals on these little saws go out fairly frequently. I would run the saw is is (no clutch if course) and decide if it n3eds a new set of seals. Or pressure test

 

[HarleyT]

Sprocket looks OK. Don't buy that Chinese crap, I see an oem one for $14.99.

Here is his sprocket.

 

[Fishnuts2]

Looks to me that the case and oil passages are gone. Especially around the 5 ' oclock position of the clutch area. I had one just like this and tried JB weld over the holes in the oil passage. No luck. These saws do not put out much oil anyway and even a small leak in the passageway will affect it.

You'll spend a lot less time and money by just replacing the case from the start.

 

[HarleyT]

Here is his pic.

 

[HarleyT]

Here is a pic off another case from the inside. The passage is likely OK.

 

[Car-guy2]

Looks to me that the case and oil passages are gone. Especially around the 5 ' oclock position of the clutch area. I had one just like this and tried JB weld over the holes in the oil passage. No luck. These saws do not put out much oil anyway and even a small leak in the passageway will affect it.

You'll spend a lot less time and money by just replacing the case from the start.

OK. What's involved in changing the case? I've split engine cases on pro saws, but have never worked on a clamshell saw before. Do I start by removing the av mounts and handle?

 

[Car-guy2]

Was just looking at a case on eBay. Looks like both sides are one case and the motor bolts in from the bottom. Is that right?

 

[HarleyT]

Yes, the 4 bolts on the bottom go up and screw into the block., but why change unless you need to?

 

[HarleyT]

 

[Car-guy2]

Yes, the 4 bolts on the bottom go up and screw into the block., but why change unless you need to?

Just thinking ahead. Haven't had a chance to thoroughly inspect for damage to oil passage. If ok , will just replace clutch and drum bearing.
Thanks for the info

 

[Car-guy2]

Ok so I cleaned the case up and oil ran out below the pump. Gonna have to have a case. Got it stripped down this evening.

 

[Car-guy2]

Thinking I will put crank seals in while it's down this far. What seals the bottom pan to these clamshell motors? Seems odd that there's nothing holding the pan on when the bolts holding the motor in the case are removed.

 

[Chris-PA]

Thinking I will put crank seals in while it's down this far. What seals the bottom pan to these clamshell motors? Seems odd that there's nothing holding the pan on when the bolts holding the motor in the case are removed.

Some clamshells have a separate set of bolts to hold the engine in and to hold it together, some use one set for both functions. I use Yamabond4 on my Poulans but I don't know what Stihl recommends. I use spacers and the factory bolts to clamp it together until the sealant sets outside the chassis, and find it's plenty strong to hold together to transfer it into the chassis later - it's much easier to assemble the engine this way, and easier to be neat and careful with the sealant this way. Others put them together in the chassis.

 

[Car-guy2]

I was thinking of something like that. Thanks for the info.

 

[Car-guy2]

Ordered an OEM case off the bay and a tube of yamabond 4. HarletT hooked me up with an OEM clutch, bearing, and worm drive. Now I just have to wait for the parts to get here. Oh yeah, ordered crank seals too.