@deepwoodbigbear I'm a certified arborist and tree climber. Avoid higher-upping your cuts and keep the power head close to your hip. If you really need to go up and have the awareness to do so without being thrown off balance, the 440 has a longer reach. I hope you're not using a ladder, which is very dangerous for me even as a professional. I don't use ladders except to access a roof.
If you are climbing, the ms250 is a fully professional saw used for blocking down 18" diameter spar wood onto rigging, bombing 18" diameter limbs without rigging, and taking 18" diameter crane picks.
At the base of a tree, you can drop a 36" diameter tree with an ms250, but the accuracy will be sh*t.
Do not get the ms250 c-be stihl homeowner saw. Instead, learn how to check and adjust chain tension throughout a work session using a scrench. The c-be is a hawt mess - it tends to slack the chain while cutting. It tends to break at the plastic tension adjuster. It's hard to put back together when the chain comes off.
As with all saws (and especially those that sit for weeks and months), use a gas additive to protect rubber gaskets and other parts from the ethanol in modern gasoline.
Buy the dealer, not the saw. Dolmars are great. I have one with a 61cc powerhead. I have no closeby dealer. It sucks, and the dolmar sits. It has a throaty growl and rips wood when it's working. It is also not quite as finely engineered as my stihl saws. It is more like a forester saw, imho. I love dolmars, but I use Stihls. I would use huskies, echos, and jonsereds. Everyone knows that modern saws are great. The price of the saw is not the main issue. It's the price of sustained ownership of the saw. Buy the dealer, not the saw. Make sure the dealer is close, and good.
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