Stihl Ultra oil in a new saw

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Bowtie

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Hey experts, I heard that you shouldnt use Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil during break in of a new saw because it is so slick it causes the rings to not seat in like they should. Any truth to that? I started using it in my 441 and wonder what you guys think.
 
Hey experts, I heard that you shouldnt use Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil during break in of a new saw because it is so slick it causes the rings to not seat in like they should. Any truth to that? I started using it in my 441 and wonder what you guys think.

My 441 is on it, runs just fine. All my saws are on it, all run just fine. I was told by Stihl to run it, the saws will run just fine,lol, messing with ya.

Naaaaaaaaa what you've been hearing come from the automotive feild. Alot of people firmly believe to use reg oil in a new car till the rings seat and then switch to the good stuff.

I say run Ultra oil in that new saw and keep sawing....
 
All my saws been run in with synthetic oil with no problem ,,
They run strong and the pis/cyl looks like new :)
 
Was at the good 'ol Stihl dealer the other day and asked if they had any HP Ultra. It was behind the counter because he wanted to sell the HP orange bottle before the Ultra white bottle! Anyway, after talking a little more about the Ultra he then pulled out his big dealer binder and showed me a 500 hour test on the 4-mix backpack blowers. The pictures of the crank, piston head, exhaust port, everything were sparkling. The dino oils left a sticky looking residue tho! I had to buy a 6 pack of it.

They ran synthetic Ams-oil and that seemed to be just as clean as the Ultra.
 
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No truth to that!!!!

Hey experts, I heard that you shouldnt use Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil during break in of a new saw because it is so slick it causes the rings to not seat in like they should. Any truth to that? I started using it in my 441 and wonder what you guys think.

We push them out the door all day long (brand new) with a full tank of ultra and fresh 89 octane and if I get to talk to them I show the the comparison photos of the other brand oils (Including Stihl Dino) after 500 hours,,,,

They usually grab an 8 pack of the Ultra,,,,, Run it,,,, Like ya stole it!!!!!

As far as break in,,,,,
to paraphrase the manual,,, for the first three tanks,,, a factory new machine should not be run @ high revs (Full throttle OFF LOAD) in other words dont check your H setting out of wood for the first three tanks,,,
5 would be better,,,,, but if you have the bar in the wood loaded,,,

WOT bubba ,,, it also mentions that after long periods of Wot operation to let the engine idle for a short period to cool it down,,,

Break in is covered in detail in the operators manual BTW,,,,:givebeer:

Happy cutting!!!!!!
 
It is just as clean,,,,

Was at the good 'ol Stihl dealer the other day and asked if they had any HP Ultra. It was behind the counter because he wanted to sell the HP orange bottle before the Ultra white bottle! Anyway, after talking a little more about the Ultra he then pulled out his big dealer binder and showed me a 500 hour test on the 4-mix backpack blowers. The pictures of the crank, piston head, exhaust port, everything were sparkling. The dino oils left a sticky looking residue tho! I had to buy a 6 pack of it.

They ran synthetic Ams-oil and that seemed to be just as clean as the Ultra.

The Amsoil is just more expensive,,,,,,
 
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The whole rings not seating because synthetic oil is to slick is BS [/QUOT
+1

The idea that synthetics are slicker is not based on any sort of facts.


Amsoil. unless they have had major changes in the last two years does not make a product thats in the same league as Ultra.
 
Ultra is fine for use from day one, and that's direct from Stihl.

Also.. Stihl rings have microgrooves around them that wear in the first few hours of use to assist the break in.
 
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I had a muffler bolt back out on my 346 yesterday. Went to a dealer and got a new one, but I managed to bugger the threads installing it. As a result I had to pull the jug to helicoil it.
I will snap some pics of the piston before it goes back together.
This pisotn was run on Ultra only BTW.
 
I went to my Stihl shop looking for some Ultra. He didn't have it and said he didn't think it would mix well with California gas:dizzy:
 
I had a muffler bolt back out on my 346 yesterday. Went to a dealer and got a new one, but I managed to bugger the threads installing it. As a result I had to pull the jug to helicoil it.
I will snap some pics of the piston before it goes back together.
This pisotn was run on Ultra only BTW.

Leave it to Ben to have to pull the jug to change a muffler bolt. :jester:
 
I had heard this too in my short time messing with saws about dont break in with 100% synthetic, imo it has been a BS rumor too.
Because my 357 after build was ran with 100% Klotz during break in and it has great compression and all is well. I run the 80/20 for now, but will go back to 100% when found in the future.
 
I went to my Stihl shop looking for some Ultra. He didn't have it and said he didn't think it would mix well with California gas:dizzy:

Sounds like he wants to push the dino on you eh.

Is there only 3 different 2 cycle oil stihl sales? when at the dealer he had dino, a blend of both S&D, and Ultra 100%.
 
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I had a muffler bolt back out on my 346 yesterday. Went to a dealer and got a new one, but I managed to bugger the threads installing it. As a result I had to pull the jug to helicoil it.
I will snap some pics of the piston before it goes back together.
This pisotn was run on Ultra only BTW.

Leave it to Ben to have to pull the jug to change a muffler bolt. :jester:

I was thinking the same thing. You should take better care of your tools and also learn how to thread a bolt into a hole.

"Resident HackSaw builder Exposer" and he can't even thread a muffler bolt into it's hole? Geezus.

:popcorn:

.
 
Ben glue some girlfriend or wifes hair around the muffler bolt holes before inserting new bolt and I bet you want have this problem in the future. :jester:
 
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I had a muffler bolt back out on my 346 yesterday. Went to a dealer and got a new one, but I managed to bugger the threads installing it. As a result I had to pull the jug to helicoil it.
I will snap some pics of the piston before it goes back together.
This pisotn was run on Ultra only BTW.



I have a 288xp lite that has the same problem with muffler bolts always coming loose..... Better check the rest of the bolts too... My top cover bolt's come loose a lot and starter screws fall out.


.
 
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[QUOTEI was thinking the same thing. You should take better care of your tools and also learn how to thread a bolt into a hole.

"Resident HackSaw builder Exposer" and he can't even thread a muffler bolt into it's hole? Geezus.

][/QUOTE]
Have you ever drilled and tapped a muffler mount on a 346 with the jog in place? I didnt think so.
There is no way to get a drill into the area in question, much less a tap handle. I also chucked the cylinder in a vise and drilled it using a drill press to make sure the holes for the helicoil where drilled straight.
Stripped bolts happen. Especialy when you have a loose, steel bolt vibrating around a set of magnesium threads.


I have a 288xp lite that has the same problem with muffler bolts always coming loose..... Better check the rest of the bolts too... My top cover bolt's come loose a lot and starter screws fall out.
Try loctite 246.
 
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