Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
Put it together, started it, the chain won't turn. Is there a trick to it?
Stupid Chainsaw Question-Chain Won't Turn
- Thread starter Hoping4Heat
- Start date
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KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you checked the chain brake. The lever/guard in front of the handle for your left hand. Pull it back till it clicks and it should release the brake.
Stupid safety gadgets anyway ! LOL
I guess they arent a bad idea. The first real kickback I had it was headed directly for my forehead. Once was all it took to respect the no touch zone at the tip.
Stupid safety gadgets anyway ! LOL
I guess they arent a bad idea. The first real kickback I had it was headed directly for my forehead. Once was all it took to respect the no touch zone at the tip.
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Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
Tried that. I can't get it to click. I'm wondering if it's me or the refurbished saw?
KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Will it click if you push the brake lever forward ?
Missing shoes in the clutch ?
Something jammed inside the brake, chain or bar guide rails ?
Chain too tight ?
Missing shoes in the clutch ?
Something jammed inside the brake, chain or bar guide rails ?
Chain too tight ?
skid row
ArboristSite Guru
Chain might be too tight. Take the sproket cover off and check what is binding.
Mkarlson
ArboristSite Operative
maybe the sprocket in the nose is jammed .
Try taking clutch cover off and turn it by gloved hand. This would tell you if its the chain brake or not. If it doesnt turn I'd check for proper chain tension if its ok try removing chain and look the bar rails over for an obstruction.
Try taking clutch cover off and turn it by gloved hand. This would tell you if its the chain brake or not. If it doesnt turn I'd check for proper chain tension if its ok try removing chain and look the bar rails over for an obstruction.
JBinKC
ArboristSite Operative
Could the chain you are using happen to be non OEM on a OEM bar? I recently purchased a replacement chain for my MS170 which was non OEM where the chain fit too tight (snapped into place on the bar) and the saw wouldn't turn.
Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
Is there something in the bar that could be the problem? The saw came with the chain on backwards, I didn't notice and put it together that way. The chain broke and I was sent a new replacement saw with a new chain and bar, but I used the old bar and not the replacement. Could this one have been damaged when the chain was on backwards?
I don't think the chain itself is the problem.
I don't think the chain itself is the problem.
avalancher
Arboristsite Raconteur
Had a very ignorant neighbor bring his saw over a few months ago, he bought a new Husky455 and made the mistake of pulling the sprocket cover off while the chain brake was engaged. When he went to put the cover back on with the brake engaged, the brake wouldnt ride back on top of the clutch.Instead of investigating, he "TAPPED" the cover repeatedly with a mallet trying to force the brake back over the clutch and mangled the brake.Eventually got the cover back on but the saw wouldnt turn the chain.
After I managed to get the cover back off, discovered the brake was mangled, the cover was cracked in two places, and it ended up costing him 80 bucks in parts to repair the thing.
As was suggested, pull the sprocket cover off and check the ride of the chain on the bar, and make sure you didnt mangle the brake when assembling it.
What make and model of saw is it?
After I managed to get the cover back off, discovered the brake was mangled, the cover was cracked in two places, and it ended up costing him 80 bucks in parts to repair the thing.
As was suggested, pull the sprocket cover off and check the ride of the chain on the bar, and make sure you didnt mangle the brake when assembling it.
What make and model of saw is it?
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KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
The chain tensioner is only supposed to take thte slack out of the chain. Enough so the chain doesnt droop below the bottom of the bar.
Never use a screwdriver to pry the chain onto the bar.
We need more information from you about the problem to help you correct it.
Other wise we are only taking potshots in the dark sending you on a wild goose chase. Neither is productive for any of us.
How did the first chain break ?
What caused it to break ?
What were you or the sw or both doing when it broke ?
Have you taken it back apart to confirm that it will move freely with no binding by running a drive link through the entire rail of the bar, top and bottom ?
Does the roller on the tip of the bar spin freely ?
When you ordered a new chain after the old one broke is it the correct chain ?
In the words of Jerry McGuire "Help me help you."
Never use a screwdriver to pry the chain onto the bar.
We need more information from you about the problem to help you correct it.
Other wise we are only taking potshots in the dark sending you on a wild goose chase. Neither is productive for any of us.
How did the first chain break ?
What caused it to break ?
What were you or the sw or both doing when it broke ?
Have you taken it back apart to confirm that it will move freely with no binding by running a drive link through the entire rail of the bar, top and bottom ?
Does the roller on the tip of the bar spin freely ?
When you ordered a new chain after the old one broke is it the correct chain ?
In the words of Jerry McGuire "Help me help you."
Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
It's Husqvarna 142. When it came, the chain was on backwards. Having never owned a chainsaw, I didn't notice. Kept it that way and the chain broke. Instead of just sending a new chain, they sent a new saw. We just used the old bar and tried putting the new chain on. When we started the saw, it didn't move.
Coldfront
Addicted to ArboristSite
I remember you were the one who wanted to buy the cheap reman. saw off the internet, when most here suggested you buy a better saw from a local dealer.
.aspx
ArboristSite Operative
This happened to me once when I was cutting wet douglas fir and didn't bother revving the saw coming out of the cut.
Loosen your chain (or remove it completely) and run a toothpick / scrench to remove anything that's caked up in your guide.
Start revving the saw as you come out of the cut to prevent this as well as making sure your chain is plentity tight
Loosen your chain (or remove it completely) and run a toothpick / scrench to remove anything that's caked up in your guide.
Start revving the saw as you come out of the cut to prevent this as well as making sure your chain is plentity tight
Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks so much. I'm going to take it apart AGAIN tonight and do that-do you think if I still have both bars, I should try switching bars too? The other one hasn't been used (at least by us), so should be ok.
KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
I guess a 357, 372 or 3120 might have the brute force to overcome the friction of a chain that was over tightened. It would soon burn something else up though. A better saw wont overcome operator error.
Said it before and will say it again - Crawl, walk, run, there should be a natural progression for the uninitiated. Better to learn on an easily replacable saw than one you spend a weeks pay on.
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Hoping4heat, have you tried any of the posibilties in the replies to your original post ?
Knowing what you have tried so far will help us help you better. Post back each of the things that have been suggested that you checked and didn't find anything wrong.
Chain brake on.
Chain too tight.
Something jammed in the brake housing.
Damaged brake assembly.
Wrong chain thickness binding in the rails.
Wrong chain pitch binding on the sprocket or roller tip.
Rollertip on old bar binding.
Bent bar causing chain to bind.
Foreign matter in the guide rails.
Missing shoes in the clutch housing.
Bent chain from improper installation.
I hope I didn't forget any suggestions.
Push it it forward , it should pop as the spring loaded brake engages. Pull it back and it should pop again. If not this sounds like the first place to start looking.
Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
KSWoodman-I haven't done anything with it today-I've been running around and it's just easier to do once the kids go to bed. I did bring it in to a Stihl dealer (we use them for everything else, so I know them there) to make sure the chain was tight enough and he said it was. Unfortunately, I didn't try to start it up there. That should rule out the chain being too tight possibility. I am pretty sure it is not the brake, because we tried to get it to disengage, but then didn't hear a click. It was also really hard to get the tightening screw lined up with the bar. I don't know if that means anything?
jmcguiretree
ArboristSite Member
check to see if the cover was placed back on right.take it off and see if it works without cover*****NOT WHEN RUNNING***** IF IT MOVES FREELY THAN IT IS IN CHAIN BREAK
Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
I can check that now-I don't think it will move though. What does that mean?
Austin1
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 becarefull don't engage your brake if you have a outboard clutch husky wile the clutch cover is off. I think we have the same neighbor maybe he has a brother up here lol. Just trying to get that brake band to pop back into place wile the cover is off is a pain in the ***. is a whole thread about it in the chainsaw forum.Sorry don't now how to post a link.
Hoping4Heat
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok, I think it was the break. I don't think I ever heard that click before. Now, the 2nd saw they sent me looked really beat up and that is why I only switched the chain. Last night, in desperation, I switched to the beat up looking saw. This one won't start. It feels like I can only pull the choke half way.
