Stupid mistake just plain stupid

[JT78]

Well I was putting together this 575 Husky today and did the cylinder port work cleaned up the piston had everything going perfect even had the saw completely together and running. Then after a few seconds of running the saw just quit. I though about it for a minute and tried to restart the saw nothing not even turning the bottom end.
Well I forgot to torque the flywheel nut and it sheared the flywheel key and the nut came loose.

Does anybody have some of these mistakes or is it just me?

If I tighten the bolt really tight after lining it up where it needs to be in time will it be ok or do I have to invest even more and buy a new flywheel? I already had to buy a new case so I am not going to make any money on this one it is just turning into a nightmare saw.

 

[luvsaws]

Ouch
I would have to say ya need a new wheel.
On the bright side you probably won't make that mistake again.

 

[ironman_gq]

might be able to get away with locktite retaining compound. Its basically threadlocker but its made to keep bearing in their bores. Might work for a flywheel

 

[ol'homey]

The key is for alignment, the interference fit of the taper when torqued properly is what holds the flywheel in place. If you properly torque the flywheel nut it should stay put. Everybody (with the possible exception of Thall) that's worked on any type of mechanical equipment for long has made silly mistakes like this. I found out a long time ago that I make most of my mistakes when I'm in a hurry. Fortunately the only work I do is for myself and close friends so i don't need to rush. If they need it right away I tell them to take it somewhere else or buy another one so they will have a spare. I find it's faster to take my time and do it right the first time, than it is to rush through and then have to go back and fix mistakes, especially when a part gets broken that will have to be ordered. In your case I think you will be fine if you torque the flywheel to factory specs, so this one's a freebie!

 

[pgg]

Sheared flywheels are common, just bolt it down in the right position and don't worry about it, the key doesn't hold it, the torqued nut does

 

[Jtheo]

Well I was putting together this 575 Husky today and did the cylinder port work cleaned up the piston had everything going perfect even had the saw completely together and running. Then after a few seconds of running the saw just quit. I though about it for a minute and tried to restart the saw nothing not even turning the bottom end.
Well I forgot to torque the flywheel nut and it sheared the flywheel key and the nut came loose.

Does anybody have some of these mistakes or is it just me?

If I tighten the bolt really tight after lining it up where it needs to be in time will it be ok or do I have to invest even more and buy a new flywheel? I already had to buy a new case so I am not going to make any money on this one it is just turning into a nightmare saw.

Had a few nightmare saws myself. Got one now a snakebit 365 It just won't stay fixed.

 

[GlenM]

I did this once on a trimmer.
I put some coarse lapping compound on flywheel/crank taper, lilned it up, torqued it down.
Used trimmer for a while, gave it away, far's I know the guy is still using it.
fwiw

 

[Taxmantoo]

You may have damaged the taper. If so, it'll probably want to keep loosening up.
The two important parts, besides fit, are proper torque and not a hint of oil or grease on the crank or in the flywheel.

 

[epicklein22]

Sheared flywheels are common, just bolt it down in the right position and don't worry about it, the key doesn't hold it, the torqued nut does

+1, I have built a few saws with no flywheel key. It is all about the taper holding the flywheel (that's why we need flywheel pullers), which is seated by the nut.

 

[JT78]

Thanks fellas but I made a key and fixed it up and it works beautifully. I know the reason I made such a stupid mistake I got interrupted while putting the saw together, but I now have to healthy baby goats that were born so I guess it was a fair trade.

Let me add this saw sounds awesome I cant wait to see how my first ported strato runs!

 

[nomak]

dont know if it applies in chainsaws but I work in a machine shop and when we have to change out out drill chucks on our CNC tooling we always used pool cue chalk... works great and you just kinda rub it on best and evenly as u can... Been doing it for over 10 yrs now and never had one come undone yet and the chalk and the taper is only thing holds the arbor and the chuck together.. with a good tap of a soft or medium faced dead blow hammer to force the the chuck on to the tapor of the arbor. Never ran at more than 2000 RPM's though so dont know if it applies on a chiansaw flywheel...

 

[edisto]

Thanks fellas but I made a key and fixed it up and it works beautifully. I know the reason I made such a stupid mistake I got interrupted while putting the saw together, but I now have to healthy baby goats that were born so I guess it was a fair trade.

Let me add this saw sounds awesome I cant wait to see how my first ported strato runs!

As long as the key isn't harder than the flywheel you should be good to go!

 

[discounthunter]

Thanks fellas but I made a key and fixed it up and it works beautifully. I know the reason I made such a stupid mistake I got interrupted while putting the saw together, but I now have to healthy baby goats that were born so I guess it was a fair trade.

Let me add this saw sounds awesome I cant wait to see how my first ported strato runs!

by the way it sounded i thought this was one of those flywheels with the key molded in ,that would be different. but simply shearing a key happens,thats why they make them out of a softer metal than tha crank and flywheel. most keys are only 1.00 not much to lose money on, i keep several on hand and also some uncut stock to make my own.

 

[tomdcoker]

Well I was putting together this 575 Husky today and did the cylinder port work cleaned up the piston had everything going perfect even had the saw completely together and running. Then after a few seconds of running the saw just quit. I though about it for a minute and tried to restart the saw nothing not even turning the bottom end.
Well I forgot to torque the flywheel nut and it sheared the flywheel key and the nut came loose.

Does anybody have some of these mistakes or is it just me?

If I tighten the bolt really tight after lining it up where it needs to be in time will it be ok or do I have to invest even more and buy a new flywheel? I already had to buy a new case so I am not going to make any money on this one it is just turning into a nightmare saw.

The only people who do not make mistakes are the people who do not do anything. Tom

 

[DSS]

The only people who do not make mistakes are the people who do not do anything. Tom

Yup, old guy told me the same thing once...'' anbody tells you they never ####ed anything up is someone who never done much''

 

[2000ssm6]

Bring it to the GTG!!

 

[BIGBUCK]

Don't feel bad i broke the end off the crank on the fly wheel side on my 395.
Everyone said i needed a new one. My buddy is a tool and die maker, he drilled and tapped a hole in the crank and torqued a bolt in it and has worked great.
Everyone thought it was impossible. Cost me $25 bucks.

Never hurts to try.