Normal oiling for those series of saws is about a tank of oil for every tank of gas. To fill the oil tank on mine I use a squirt bottle, it allows me to see the level and gives me better control.
Super EZ fuel issues
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Those oil pumps are healthy. Not much can fail with the piston pump/worm gear. Make sure the small o-rings are in place between the pump and the case. If you ever run it in cold weather (-15 Celcius or less), thin the oil. I have sheared a pump piston off when I inadvertently ran some heavy weight oil in it. The pump is easy to disassemble after you have removed the keeper on the end of the pump.
Many of that series I have been through like a lean setting on the idle circuit (L). Shop manual calls for 1 turn on both L and H as a base. The idle circuit is not independent from the H. I would advice setting the H (usually about 7/8 for me) and then setting the L based on it being fed fuel through the H circuit. My L settings are usually 3/4 or a tad less. If you turn in the idle speed srew too far, the transition (idle) port will begin dumping fuel and it will load up and die. There is a very fine line when setting those HDC's. Finicky.
Some also came with a Walbro version that had a port indexed through the throttle shaft that supplied additional impulse to the idle circuit when throttling. It allowed for a rather lean setting on the L while supplying the necessary impulse/fuel to not fall on it's face when throttling. There was an additional impulse hole on the rear of the carb and covered by a screen. If that is the case, make certain to have a gasket that doesn't cover that port up.
Many of that series I have been through like a lean setting on the idle circuit (L). Shop manual calls for 1 turn on both L and H as a base. The idle circuit is not independent from the H. I would advice setting the H (usually about 7/8 for me) and then setting the L based on it being fed fuel through the H circuit. My L settings are usually 3/4 or a tad less. If you turn in the idle speed srew too far, the transition (idle) port will begin dumping fuel and it will load up and die. There is a very fine line when setting those HDC's. Finicky.
Some also came with a Walbro version that had a port indexed through the throttle shaft that supplied additional impulse to the idle circuit when throttling. It allowed for a rather lean setting on the L while supplying the necessary impulse/fuel to not fall on it's face when throttling. There was an additional impulse hole on the rear of the carb and covered by a screen. If that is the case, make certain to have a gasket that doesn't cover that port up.
Good stuff thanks. Should I be able to paint a line of oil on a piece of cardboard by revving the saw? When I observe the oil outlet with bar and chain off, I can see a pulsing, but not producing much. Takes quite a while to get a drop to run down.
I think my carb does have that extra port on back of carb. I’ll have to check that gasket as you suggest.
Do you know what the grade of oil in the tank is? Maybe it's an old oil, too heavy? Just another possibility.
The fuel mix, Leons beliefs are that new oils are so much better that he uses a much thinner oil/gas mix in his Homelites & other older saws.
You'll have to check out his videos to see what fuel/oil ratio he uses.
The fuel mix, Leons beliefs are that new oils are so much better that he uses a much thinner oil/gas mix in his Homelites & other older saws.
You'll have to check out his videos to see what fuel/oil ratio he uses.
Echo bar and chain oil. Pretty thick stuff.
3/8 wrench, pop grommet out and then it will pass through the housing. There is a grommet sealing the air box that the line passes through, once you have loosened the nut and you pull back on the handle away from the engine you will see the grommet easier, push it from inside the air box forward, then the front of the air box will allow the nut to pass through it.
OK, assuming at this point you have already:
1. removed spark plug
2. removed fuel line
3. loosen bolts on the carb completely (use a 5/16 wrench)
4. remove two 5/16 bolts on outside of air box
5. removed the side of the handle, then removed the trigger from it's pin then rotate the carb to remove linkage from the carb (easiest way to do it).
6. go to the spring that is pushing in on the decomp valve and pull out on it and to the rear just enough to clear the valve and let the tension off.
7. removed the oil inlet hose (rubber molded tube).
8. loosened the oil line nut, then pull rearward on handle gently and push grommet forward opening up the air box enough to let the line pass through.
9. guide spark plug boot and grommet to large opening for spark plug and let them pass through as you separate the handle from the rest of the saw.
10. and most importantly don't work on a power mac 6, if this saw has you that frustrated you WILL take a sledge hammer to the PM6 better known as the saw from hell.
. If you look in my signature I actually own four of them, that saw will get the best of most people.
Sorry number ten was to lighten the mood and let you relax for a minute. You can change the order around a little bit on taking it apart/putting it back together but for the most part the way I listed it is about the easiest way that I have found. Once you do it once it will be a piece of cake after that.
1. removed spark plug
2. removed fuel line
3. loosen bolts on the carb completely (use a 5/16 wrench)
4. remove two 5/16 bolts on outside of air box
5. removed the side of the handle, then removed the trigger from it's pin then rotate the carb to remove linkage from the carb (easiest way to do it).
6. go to the spring that is pushing in on the decomp valve and pull out on it and to the rear just enough to clear the valve and let the tension off.
7. removed the oil inlet hose (rubber molded tube).
8. loosened the oil line nut, then pull rearward on handle gently and push grommet forward opening up the air box enough to let the line pass through.
9. guide spark plug boot and grommet to large opening for spark plug and let them pass through as you separate the handle from the rest of the saw.
10. and most importantly don't work on a power mac 6, if this saw has you that frustrated you WILL take a sledge hammer to the PM6 better known as the saw from hell.
. If you look in my signature I actually own four of them, that saw will get the best of most people.Sorry number ten was to lighten the mood and let you relax for a minute. You can change the order around a little bit on taking it apart/putting it back together but for the most part the way I listed it is about the easiest way that I have found. Once you do it once it will be a piece of cake after that.
OK, assuming at this point you have already:
1. removed spark plug
2. removed fuel ling
3. loosen bolts on the carb completely
4. remove two 5/16 bolts on outside of air box
5. removed the side of the handle, then removed the trigger from it's pin then rotate the carb to remove linkage from the carb (easiest way to do it).
6. go to the spring that is pushing in on the decomp valve and pull out on it and to the rear just enough to clear the valve and let the tension off.
7. removed the oil inlet hose (rubber molded tube).
8. loosened the oil line nut, then pull rearward on handle gently and push grommet forward opening up the air box enough to let the line pass through.
9. guide spark plug and grommet to large opening for spark plug and let them pass through as you separate the handle from the rest of the saw.
10. and most importantly don't work on a power mac 6, if this saw has you that frustrated you WILL take a sledge hammer to the PM6 better known as the saw from hell.
Success! Yes, I had all that done. It was was just the oil line fighting me.
Ok, for a refresher...this journey began because of inconsistent idling and spit back into the airbox. Now that I’ve laid eyes on the reed valves...I don’t see anything obviously wrong. Not brittle or warped.
Do I proactively replace them b/c of the symptoms?Or put it all back together and start looking for another root cause?
Crap....now that I did all this, was it even necessary? Could I have just pulled that intake block back through the airbox?
Thanks for the video. They all sit really flush. Slippery little buggers to try to keep 4 in place at the same time.
Thanks for the video. They all sit really flush. Slippery little buggers to try to keep 4 in place at the same time.
The “while I’m at it” list is growing. No idea what normal condition is, but the rubber line feeding the oil pump seems super soft. Is there anything special about it or can I just use fuel line of whatever.
Not sure if I should start a fresh thread or just keep the saga going in this one...will opt for the latter for now.
Since my last update here I’ve sourced some reed valves, gaskets, and rim style sprocket setup. The S style clutch was a bugger to break loose without proper tools but I got it.
1). Anything I can visually inspect and to see if this clutch still has good life in it? Seemed to work ok with what little run time I’ve had. Chain moved at a fairly low RPM, however. I’d rather not put this all back together and then have to take apart clutch again.
2). Parts diagram shows a circular piece that covers outside of clutch. My saw lacks that. How critical is it? I assume it’s just a means of keeping crap out of the clutch drum.
3). Looks like there’s a different style clutch with springs and shoes more like a modern one. Is that somewhat of an upgrade? I plan to use this thing semi-regularly.
Since my last update here I’ve sourced some reed valves, gaskets, and rim style sprocket setup. The S style clutch was a bugger to break loose without proper tools but I got it.
1). Anything I can visually inspect and to see if this clutch still has good life in it? Seemed to work ok with what little run time I’ve had. Chain moved at a fairly low RPM, however. I’d rather not put this all back together and then have to take apart clutch again.
2). Parts diagram shows a circular piece that covers outside of clutch. My saw lacks that. How critical is it? I assume it’s just a means of keeping crap out of the clutch drum.
3). Looks like there’s a different style clutch with springs and shoes more like a modern one. Is that somewhat of an upgrade? I plan to use this thing semi-regularly.
There's actually three different types of clutches.
Hard to tell what you mean by the chain moves slow but the saw raps out at around 9k so it's no 346xp but makes up for it with torque.
The S-type clutch will work but Homelite called for the other style of clutch when you use a rim and drum style, theS-type is narrower. Also there is a thrust washers change.
Hard to tell what you mean by the chain moves slow but the saw raps out at around 9k so it's no 346xp but makes up for it with torque.
The S-type clutch will work but Homelite called for the other style of clutch when you use a rim and drum style, theS-type is narrower. Also there is a thrust washers change.
Ah...so I need a different thrust washer to make the S work on this rim style drum?
Sorry my post was a little confusing. I mean the chain moves a bit at an fast idle-ish speed. I don’t have a tach to quantify that.
What about the cover plate thingee? Need to find one?
Sorry my post was a little confusing. I mean the chain moves a bit at an fast idle-ish speed. I don’t have a tach to quantify that.
What about the cover plate thingee? Need to find one?
I changed mine over after a bit from S type to ones with springs and shoes, I did put the covers on mine in order to keep stuff out of the springs.
Both of mine came without the covers on the S type. The second one on the spring type isn't really a thrust washer, it's between the drum and clutch and is there to keep stuff out of the spring type, kind of like the outer one is on the S type. Remember the shoes and springs go inward towards the drum when mounting the spring type.
The cover plates for the S type are on Leon's site and on Fleebay, and it's up to you if you want them or not to help keep stuff out of between the shoes and drum.
As far as chain moving at fast idle, the saw should start up with throttle lock on so there will be chain movement, then once you hit the trigger the engine will still spin the chain for a bit until the engine comes down to idle speed, once at low idle then the chain should not move at all.
Both of mine came without the covers on the S type. The second one on the spring type isn't really a thrust washer, it's between the drum and clutch and is there to keep stuff out of the spring type, kind of like the outer one is on the S type. Remember the shoes and springs go inward towards the drum when mounting the spring type.
The cover plates for the S type are on Leon's site and on Fleebay, and it's up to you if you want them or not to help keep stuff out of between the shoes and drum.
As far as chain moving at fast idle, the saw should start up with throttle lock on so there will be chain movement, then once you hit the trigger the engine will still spin the chain for a bit until the engine comes down to idle speed, once at low idle then the chain should not move at all.
Did not read all of this: See where you are flogging a SEZ. I have several tha tI like and that I've repaired.
First when the Low idle jet won't adjust the idle properly, you need to do a pressure vacuum test of the crankcase.
Quite common for the cylinder to block nuts to be loose and the gasket leaking.
As for removing and installing the carb, yes they are not user friendly for re-install. I wrote a series on here sometimes back about step by step re-install procedures. (one is taking a drill bit same size as the throttle rod and drilling the carb throttle rod hole at that angle while the carb throttle is held wide open. Also tie the carb throttle wide open with a little tie wire before trying to re-install. (allows you to see and guide the throttle rod into place) You will get the idea when you look at it. 99% of time if the crankcase is sealed good and a carb won't adjust for good idle you have a bad carb. Using high pressure air when cleaning can ruin one of those carbs also.
I sometimes run into a carb that just won't go but very seldom. I keep a good spare carb around for testing.
Yep them oil lines can be a pain in the AXE also.
I've never seen bad reed valves in a EZ.
First when the Low idle jet won't adjust the idle properly, you need to do a pressure vacuum test of the crankcase.
Quite common for the cylinder to block nuts to be loose and the gasket leaking.
As for removing and installing the carb, yes they are not user friendly for re-install. I wrote a series on here sometimes back about step by step re-install procedures. (one is taking a drill bit same size as the throttle rod and drilling the carb throttle rod hole at that angle while the carb throttle is held wide open. Also tie the carb throttle wide open with a little tie wire before trying to re-install. (allows you to see and guide the throttle rod into place) You will get the idea when you look at it. 99% of time if the crankcase is sealed good and a carb won't adjust for good idle you have a bad carb. Using high pressure air when cleaning can ruin one of those carbs also.
I sometimes run into a carb that just won't go but very seldom. I keep a good spare carb around for testing.
Yep them oil lines can be a pain in the AXE also.
I've never seen bad reed valves in a EZ.
