SuperSplit with 4-Way wedge

[KiwiBro]

What didn't you like about the roller bearing/s SS and the others use?

A shameless bump.
I like many of your mods. The lower centre of gravity, extra inertia, and 4-way (for straight grained wood) makes sense to me and should be adopted (as standard or options) by the various manufacturers, me thinks. But I am not sure why the cam followers are needed to improve the design. Can anyone help please? Do the regular bearings arrangements get stuck or track funny or perhaps you can eliminate the brass wear plate altogether and have a consistent clearance to the i-beam governed by the followers arrangement only? Do the lower follower wheels/bearings get stuck/jammed on any wood debris that may sit on the lower flange of the i-beam?

Thanks in advance.

 

[CUCV]

I'll get back to you, heading to bed.

A shameless bump.
I like many of your mods. The lower centre of gravity, extra inertia, and 4-way (for straight grained wood) makes sense to me and should be adopted (as standard or options) by the various manufacturers, me thinks. But I am not sure why the cam followers are needed to improve the design. Can anyone help please? Do the regular bearings arrangements get stuck or track funny or perhaps you can eliminate the brass wear plate altogether and have a consistent clearance to the i-beam governed by the followers arrangement only? Do the lower follower wheels/bearings get stuck/jammed on any wood debris that may sit on the lower flange of the i-beam?

Thanks in advance.

 

[KiwiBro]

Anyone care to speculate on the cam followers?

Please excuse my dullness but I can't think of why they would be better than the bearing/s the manufacturers use. Perhaps the great AS knowledge base can throw some light on it for me?

Also, CUCV, have you tried a HDPE or UHMWPE layer for the table? Lower friction should help bigger rounds slide back to the wedge for re-splits with much less effort.

 

[KiwiBro]

bump

 

[CUCV]

Sorry for the slow reply...

The top surface of the I beam on the SS gets gummed up from dirt, bark, water making it difficult for the stock bearing that pushes up the rack to roll and the steel/brass guides to slide. On my electric SS that still has the stock setup I keep a can of wd40 and puddy knife handy to clean the surface. I've seen others just crank up the return spring but then they chew up the rubber bumpers and get alot of bounce back.

My cam follower carriage inside the i beam sees less bark and dirt. It addition I have scraper blades in front of the cam followers to push away the dirt. Yes I do occasionally have to scrap the bottom flange of the I-beam but far less frequently than the stock setup and would be improved if I installed a new set of scrapers.

Interesting idea about using UHMW. But thinking about it I probobly won't go there, I can't keep wood on the table in the rain, it just slides everywhere (I'm never setup perfectly level) lubricatied wood on steel give has approximately the same coef. of friction as wood on UHMW.

Please excuse my dullness but I can't think of why they would be better than the bearing/s the manufacturers use. Perhaps the great AS knowledge base can throw some light on it for me?

Also, CUCV, have you tried a HDPE or UHMWPE layer for the table? Lower friction should help bigger rounds slide back to the wedge for re-splits with much less effort.

 

[KiwiBro]

Thanks for this.

making it difficult for the stock bearing that pushes up the rack to roll and the steel/brass guides to slide.

By "stock bearing" do you mean the single roller bearing that is sprung to lift the rack on the return stroke? That's the only one I can think of on these machines that runs on "The top surface of the I beam..."?
If that's the case, then how does your rack clear the pinion while returning if not lifted by the sprung roller?

...scraper blades in front of the cam followers to push away the dirt...."

great idea. Would there be enough room to have such scraper arrangements in front of the stock roller and steel/brass guide / wear plate?
on the subject of the guide/wear plate, if you are using the cam followers, do you even need this plate, given the followers maintain an even clearance between push/wear plate and the beam?

I can't keep wood on the table in the rain, it just slides everywhere

does a wet table make it easier work sliding the rounds back and forth? I'm just curious to know whether it saves much energy b/c it seems like lower friction would really add up by the end of the day/week. I mean, if there was a way to contain runaway splits/rounds, would the energy savings with a low friction table be worth it?

From what I've seen, your modded SS is the closest to flywheel splitting Nirvana, so who better to bounce some ideas off, if you can spare the time to edumacate me/us along the way.

Thanks.

 

[Wet1]

Great setup! I love mine and dont do nearly the volume you do so I can't see myself modding mine, although I am curious has to how you get yours to stop before it hits the wedge with that slip on 4 way???

 

[CUCV]

yes the "stock bearing" that lifts the rack. My rack spring is held up a 1/4 above the I'-beam by the carriage.

I have a heavy duty "scraper" more like a wedge that sits a few thou. above the I-beam. The scrapers I have in front of the cam followers actually scrape and are thin and flexible. They would not stand up to the abuse on the top side in front of the ram.

No I don't have a wear plate on the top side of the I-beam the cam followers hold the carriage precisely.

I split a bunch today, with wet icy wood, yes the pieces slide like butter but find myself chasing pieses I want to stay on the table. I see reducing friction on the table like making the easier part of my day easier. I want to make the hard part of my day easier. Cool idea, not for me right now but always ponder things and have been know to change my mind!

Thanks for the compliment, I really enjoy messing around with my equipment.

Thanks for this.

By "stock bearing" do you mean the single roller bearing that is sprung to lift the rack on the return stroke? That's the only one I can think of on these machines that runs on "The top surface of the I beam..."?
If that's the case, then how does your rack clear the pinion while returning if not lifted by the sprung roller?
great idea. Would there be enough room to have such scraper arrangements in front of the stock roller and steel/brass guide / wear plate?
on the subject of the guide/wear plate, if you are using the cam followers, do you even need this plate, given the followers maintain an even clearance between push/wear plate and the beam?
does a wet table make it easier work sliding the rounds back and forth? I'm just curious to know whether it saves much energy b/c it seems like lower friction would really add up by the end of the day/week. I mean, if there was a way to contain runaway splits/rounds, would the energy savings with a low friction table be worth it?

From what I've seen, your modded SS is the closest to flywheel splitting Nirvana, so who better to bounce some ideas off, if you can spare the time to edumacate me/us along the way.

Thanks.

 

[CUCV]

Funny you should mention that about the hitting the wedge.... others have pm'ed me about that. I really wanted to use 3/8" or 1/2" plate instead of the 1/4" but there is just no room. I got a slight witness mark on the wedge where the ram was just hitting it after the first cord.


The 4-way got a workout today and got banged up too. I have had a problem with my engagement mechanism where the bolts I used were to small on the pivot. The bolt shears every once in a great while. Its just been easier to replace the bolt instead of taking it apart and drilling it out. Today the bolt sheared, fell on top of the rack, then when the rack got to the end of cycle the broken bolt got in between the pinion and rack sending it farther forward than intended, putting a big old flat on the lead edge of the 4-way. The rack ended up under the pinion and ground of a bunch of the tips of the pinon teeth :-( It still works but doesn't engage as nice as it used to. The pivot got drilled out for a larger bolt and the 4-way got ground good enough to finish the day but will need some TLC.

Today was the first day my father got to see the 4-way run in person. He has been a skeptic, but after seeing it run thru all kinds of wood he is a believer and I'm pretty sure he will be making one tomorrow for the electric SS.

Great setup! I love mine and dont do nearly the volume you do so I can't see myself modding mine, although I am curious has to how you get yours to stop before it hits the wedge with that slip on 4 way???

 

[STLfirewood]

When is mine coming in the mail?

Scott

 

[CUCV]

There is a good chance next week! I just have 8 more cord I want to put thru it right now.

When is mine coming in the mail?

Scott

 

[STLfirewood]

There is a good chance next week! I just have 8 more cord I want to put thru it right now.

That would be great. Can't wait

Scott

 

[D Chaplin]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was wondering how your SS has held up when using the 4 way now for a couple of years? Have you had any mechanical failures as a result of the added stress from the 4 way or noticed any problems that you didn't see before?

 

[unclemoustache]

Good question. I'm now worried about my own SS - you said you've bent yours a couple times by running overly large pieces through them - I certainly want mine to last, and I put all my wood through it.

 

[CUCV]

I haven't bent a rack on a J, HD or SE model. I only bent a rack on an old Super split mini which they had an upgrade rack for when I replaced it. So the 4 way wedge was on my J model. In the mean time I sold it and bought a special edition. 4 way did not fit on the Special edition so I'm currently in the process of building a new one. I cleaned up the teeth on the J model before selling it and it ran like new and that problem had nothing to do with the 4-way. So I saw no problems due to the 4-way. The biggest concerns I had with the 4-way were more to do withe side guides and guide plate. I'm planning to make new side guides to go with the new wedge as its a bit more substantial.