Synthetic 2-stroke oils??

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The first number is wrong.. the 660 easily lasts 2000 hours at sea level..


But at 11.13hp... I'd give it a few hundred at best..

I stand corrected, and would like to change my idea that an MS-660 living at 10,000' MSL should easely last 2800 hours, and to further my idea, with cleaner air-filters per hour.
 
back to synthetic oil

alrighty, ive decided to switch to mobil 2T, i went to my local auto zone and can get it for around $46/case(6 quart bottles), ive alwasy ran orange bottle stihl at 50:1 and had good luck, surely the mobil would work fine at 50:1, correct??
 
The bar length difference is in technique.
I know loggers in Alabama that run 20" bars on 660's. They cut the drags way down and never pulse the saw. The secret to running a long bar is a very effecient chain and cleaning the chips out. If you just dog the saw in and pull up on the pistolgrip of an 880 with a 36" bar it will bog down untill the chain stops. When it does the bar will be stuck so tight in the kerf it will be very hard to get out. I have seen a lot of guys from back east do it.
I spent most of last year falling dead and dying and burnt black oaks (pretty hard and dense) and california live oaks. I mostly used a ported 372 with 32" bar and semi skip square chisel. A good friend mostly used a stock 460 with a 36" bar and same chain.

i use a 066 with a 24", have used 395's with 24", use 36" for the big stuff. had an 084 with a 41", and a 24". i don't like logging with anything less than an 066 or 395.
 
With speed, you get more heat, centralized, and overall, with speed more vibrations.
With less power doing the same job you get those same things as well. As a exagerated example, which is working harder, running hotter a 346 cutting a 20" log or a 372 cutting the same log?
 
Liquid Cooled

Not to change the subject back to the original subject, but it there any harm in running premix oil intended for liquid cooled engines in a saw? I assume that the liq cooled engin runs cooler with higher compression. Are the synthetics intended for liquid cooled?
 
With less power doing the same job you get those same things as well. As a exagerated example, which is working harder, running hotter a 346 cutting a 20" log or a 372 cutting the same log?


Sorry ben

Answered enough of your smack questions. Been reminded by other members about arguing with a FOOL , to watch out, some might not know the difference, and frankly, you had been offered some very clear concise explanations, but you take it as banter. So austlal-la-C-ya on this one!
 
boboak, what sort of oil u running?

:hmm3grin2orange: I know this will drive BWalker totally nuts but I still use Stihl dino oil. I've had good luck with it. My saws seem to like it. The only melt-down I ever had was an old 066 that my daughter fueled for me...with straight gas. When we parted out the saw it was still really clean inside and the interior wear was well within limits for the age of the saw. I know that there are technically better oils out there but I tend to stick with what works best for me...and let others experiment. :cheers:
 
Sorry ben

Answered enough of your smack questions. Been reminded by other members about arguing with a FOOL , to watch out, some might not know the difference, and frankly, you had been offered some very clear concise explanations, but you take it as banter. So austlal-la-C-ya on this one!
May a horse kick you in the balls.:clap:
 
alrighty, ive decided to switch to mobil 2T, i went to my local auto zone and can get it for around $46/case(6 quart bottles), ive alwasy ran orange bottle stihl at 50:1 and had good luck, surely the mobil would work fine at 50:1, correct??

somebody should answer your question.... ;)

yes.
 
Having just sold my MS-310 , to an ex-professional tree-guy, his first saw since a kick-back excedent, 15 years ago.

Being completely honest with him, he did mention that he might want to look for a saw with fewer hours, but would come and look at my 310 .

What I think really sold it to him is when he saw what I used to mix 3.2 oz. or slightly more oil, and run 40 : 1 or more.

But really, what cheaper insurance is there then running an extra .6 oz per gallon and 40 : 1 , if your saw split a boot or leaky seal, that extra 6/1th of an ounce may be the difference between replacing hard-parts or just soft parts.
 
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