Tank/Handle removal 044

[allboy]

So how do you remove the tank/handle asembly on a 044? I did not see it in my service manual.

 

[Jacob J.]

You're going to need a crowbar, and a two-pound hammer...

 

[Rookie1]

You're going to need a crowbar, and a two-pound hammer...

I prefer spud bar and four pound hammer.

 

[RiverRat2]

why use two tools when a splitting mall will get it done with one good lick?????:monkey: :monkey: :greenchainsaw:

 

[allboy]

Good one guys! Ha, ha, how about a M-80?
Do I need to split the case to get it off?

 

[snowdog]

here is some usefull info for you. take the rewind spring assembly off, the clutch cover off, the top plastic off, the carb off. under the clutch cover and the rewind assembly there are off white plastic circles that look like they have a screwdriver notch cut out. they are about the size of a quarter to a 50cent piece, under there is the torx screws that attach the tank to the crank case. you might have to take the wrap handle off too. once you have the screws off your main concern is detaching the impulse hose, the carb boot and then the wires. i think there is also a torx screw up high on the clutch size. hope that helps.

snowdog

 

[Tzed250]

You're going to need a crowbar, and a two-pound hammer...

Are you saying I did it wrong by using the oxy/acetylene torch?

 

[Jacob J.]

Are you saying I did it wrong by using the oxy/acetylene torch?

Oh, not at all! Next time just bring more lighter fluid though...

 

[RiverRat2]

Good one guys! Ha, ha, how about a M-80?
Do I need to split the case to get it off?

No,,, remove the trottle linkage, carb, top handle, spark plug, top & clutch cover, unwire the master control lever, push intake boot and impulse hose through the back of the air box, remove the plugs from the 4 rubber AV (annular buffers)
then remove the torx screws in the center of them,,, the handle /tank can then be separated from the power head,,,, :help: :greenchainsaw:

send me your email addy on a PM and I'll send you an IPL

 

[Jacob J.]

It's really easy, and working on modern Stihls is quite intuitive.

Basically on what Snowdog posted, but your first order of business is to empty the gas out, then remove the handlebar. Then you pop out the white annular buffer plugs, and remove the self-tapping screws in the annular buffers. Then like Rick said, you can take out the throttle linkage, carb adjustment screws grommet, carb, intake sleeve (goes behind the carb in the intake boot). Then you can push the intake boot out of the airbox carefully. There's a buffer on the high side of the flywheel side of the case that you'll need to take the self-tapping screw out of also. Then you can remove the starter and un-hook the kill switch wires from the ignition module. You'll probably need a dental pick or something sharp to remove the wire that hooks directly to the module.

Once you thread the wires out you can carefully start working the tank off. Once you get the tank backed out about an inch, you'll have room to un-hook the impulse hose. After that it's obvious.

 

[allboy]

Thanks guys, I got it. I had missed a Torx that was packed with oil caked dust. I look forward to rebuilding this beast.

 

[snowdog]

hope it goes well, but if that doesn't work, you can try dropping it handle down from a tree. that usually gets at least half of the handle off.

snowdog