Terrible luck with keeping my chain sharp.. Darn dirt!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Something else to try (it takes some getting used to) is to read the chips that the saw is throwing and learn where your tip is. Its easiest to tell with trees that have thick bark but when you are going through the bark the chips will get dark with more dust involved.
 
I kept looking at it wondering where the maple part of that tree was.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On an unrelated note, as a self admitted firewood scrounger, I'm having trouble with the log that's in the ditch to the right of me in that picture. Which is the one I dulled my fresh chain on. The ground is really soft and steep there. I came back to get it with my ramps and winch, since this is on a hill with curves on both ends, I didn't wanna block both lanes so I laid ramps down off side of truck off into the slope of shoulder. Tried to parbuckle it out after sectioning it, and one came up OK but kept having trouble getting second one to steer properly once it hit the ramps. Finally got it into truck bed and luckily was standing by the winch as my V cable end let loose and it rolled back off edge of truck and back down to where it's at now, only laying crooked instead of parallel with the road. I really don't like being stopped in this section of road it's fairly dangerous without the DOT dump truck at the top of hill helping with traffic. I gave up on it after my cable broke. It was so humid out it was kicking my butt trying to steer it with my cant hook on the steep ramps and no good footing. Maybe I should just admit defeat and leave them but there's still a lot of good wood down there!!! This is pretty close to my house I drive past it everyday on my way to work. Think I'm going to use log chain for a while instead of V cable if it works out right, but it's driving me nuts to leave that much good wood laying there....
 
Something else to try (it takes some getting used to) is to read the chips that the saw is throwing and learn where your tip is. Its easiest to tell with trees that have thick bark but when you are going through the bark the chips will get dark with more dust involved.
I try to do that, often times I don't see dirt when my chain gets dull. Maybe I need to take a step back and get semi chisel. Idk.
 
One thing I have noticed is that I am much better at judging the location of the bar tip when it has a larger diameter nose sprocket. I'm not sure why that is - possibly because a lot of time you cannot see the bar tip and must go from judgement about where it is relative to the part of the saw you can see, and it may be easier to picture. Possibly also sometimes you can see a part of the bar tip, and it is easier to judge a simple round shape of larger diameter than it is one of those pointy safety tips.
 
Put a wedge into the big stuff laying on the ground. When you hit bark the gap will suddenly open and you'll know to back off
I like his idea also, but if the log is above ground at that point, the wedge will tighten rather than open up. In fact, it may be hard to remove the wedge, so I carry two or three.

In addition, I watch the color of the chips as I near the ground. Bark usually produces darker chips and just before that shows up, sapwood produces even lighter color chips than the heartwood, so you know that the bark is next in line. When the bark chips start to appear, I let up on the throttle and reduce the pressure on the bar at the same time. A sharp chain will cut through bark almost instantly, and the ground is next, waiting like a rattlesnake ready to strike.
 
On an unrelated note, as a self admitted firewood scrounger, I'm having trouble with the log that's in the ditch to the right of me in that picture. Which is the one I dulled my fresh chain on. The ground is really soft and steep there. I came back to get it with my ramps and winch, since this is on a hill with curves on both ends, I didn't wanna block both lanes so I laid ramps down off side of truck off into the slope of shoulder. Tried to parbuckle it out after sectioning it, and one came up OK but kept having trouble getting second one to steer properly once it hit the ramps. Finally got it into truck bed and luckily was standing by the winch as my V cable end let loose and it rolled back off edge of truck and back down to where it's at now, only laying crooked instead of parallel with the road. I really don't like being stopped in this section of road it's fairly dangerous without the DOT dump truck at the top of hill helping with traffic. I gave up on it after my cable broke. It was so humid out it was kicking my butt trying to steer it with my cant hook on the steep ramps and no good footing. Maybe I should just admit defeat and leave them but there's still a lot of good wood down there!!! This is pretty close to my house I drive past it everyday on my way to work. Think I'm going to use log chain for a while instead of V cable if it works out right, but it's driving me nuts to leave that much good wood laying there....

Just leave it, it's not worth the risk or the hassle. I would feel pretty bad if scrounging a bit of wood caused an accident.
 
A semi-chisel chain that is set up properly will cut very well, only the stop watch will know the difference.
Try a loop of semi, learn to sharpen it, we the rakers and it will self feed through the wood without a problem.

Is it possible that you are filing too deep, as in too much of a hook? It would seem to me your edge would become more fragile.
 
A semi-chisel chain that is set up properly will cut very well, only the stop watch will know the difference.
Try a loop of semi, learn to sharpen it, we the rakers and it will self feed through the wood without a problem.

Is it possible that you are filing too deep, as in too much of a hook? It would seem to me your edge would become more fragile.
I'll give it a shot I guess.
And yes it's possible, I'm not saying I'm real good at sharpening but they sure cut like hell when I'm done lol. I normally set the rakers plenty aggressive, some times I get them a touch too aggressive and can't plunge cut or cut with the top of the bar for a while lol. Oops.
 
I will usually 90% buck about 5 to 6 pieces and then insert the wedge and make a cut to the bark. At that point I can roll the 5 to 6 pieces and finish up the partial cuts. This works well for me, and rarely do I have a chain brush the ground.

I like his idea also, but if the log is above ground at that point, the wedge will tighten rather than open up. In fact, it may be hard to remove the wedge, so I carry two or three.

In addition, I watch the color of the chips as I near the ground. Bark usually produces darker chips and just before that shows up, sapwood produces even lighter color chips than the heartwood, so you know that the bark is next in line. When the bark chips start to appear, I let up on the throttle and reduce the pressure on the bar at the same time. A sharp chain will cut through bark almost instantly, and the ground is next, waiting like a rattlesnake ready to strike.
 
When I cut stuff on the ground I find a shorter bar keeps me from hitting the ground as often. Try using the shortest bar you can get away with. Might help.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top