Just split it in the ditch and toss it up on the bank then again into the truck. I bed it would take less time and effort.
Terrible luck with keeping my chain sharp.. Darn dirt!
- Thread starter bigblue12v
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Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Agree. I found myself hitting dirt pretty often when I'm running the 24" bar on the 372. I'm going to get a 20" for this reason and reserve the 24" for the bigger stuff.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
A timber jack (log lifter/cant hook) is a worthwhile investment that every firewood gatherer should have. They save time and effort. Get a wood handle one. Most of the ones I've seen with steel handles are junk. (ie, they don't work due to poor engineering.)
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
I'll sometimes cut sections of tree limbs and get them under the log where I want the kerfs, then section the log rounds. Keeps the log and the saw chain off the ground. It can be hard to move that log, but if you cut through it at points where it is off the ground first, that will lighten it up.
Another thing: if you cut into a section of rotten wood that the insects have been into, you can bet they brought in a bunch of dirt too.
Another thing: if you cut into a section of rotten wood that the insects have been into, you can bet they brought in a bunch of dirt too.
With the tension in our timber we cut only half the log facing you, then once down 2/3 's down you bore through fully to the opposite side of the log, then you cut down until the logs lets out a crack (usually about 20mm from the dirt at the bottom of the log), then you cut upwards though the remaining log & finish at the top on the opposite side, if you pinch the bar only the tip is caught.
Thansk
Thansk
bigblue12v
ArboristSite Operative
That's too much work. I don't split anything by hand. I have back troubles. And it's crazy humid here with all the rain we been getting plus normal July heat. Exhausts you quick even if you're in good shape!
Noodle them if you don't want to split them = more saw time. But red oak should split fairly easily.
No one seems to have suggested that you should have more saws so you can carry on when one gets dull. I thought we were all sworn to enable CAD at every opportunity.
No one seems to have suggested that you should have more saws so you can carry on when one gets dull. I thought we were all sworn to enable CAD at every opportunity.
bigblue12v
ArboristSite Operative
I've done plenty of noodling to keep my stove going when I didn't have a splitter. I didn't wanna spend lots of time blocking one lane on a dangerous section of highway..
I do carry another saw, as well as a spare chain for the 360, but I try to avoid using both of those options and just do it right the first time lol. Happy to say I cut up a pretty big poplar yesterday and didn't once dull the chain ! Lol. Like I said some days no problems others I do it right off the bat. Just need to be more careful and a bit smarter less impatient.
That adds another rule of thumb for me. If I can't lift the bigger rounds to the tailgate, I have no choice but to noodle cut them in half. I have run into some so big that four chunks was barely enough, and one time it took six. That red elm round weighed in at about 800 lb:
That's a 32" bar on board the Makita.
bigblue12v
ArboristSite Operative
Wood Doctor, nice! I used to do it that way but I quickly decided I can't go all my life lifting heavy stuff. Thus I have a couple options! 1: lift rounds with log tongs on ATV winch powered crane 2: load whole log onto truck with ramps and winch.
The crane swivels, and inserts into receiver hitch tube. I added a receiver tube on bed of truck to get more height.
The crane swivels, and inserts into receiver hitch tube. I added a receiver tube on bed of truck to get more height.
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- May 13, 2014
- Messages
- 710
I think a few others already covered it but... Along the lines of what you said, you could also try hand filing more often to remove less than the grinder.
Check out the Pferd chain sharp filing guide and Pferd CS-X. I have the basic chain sharp and it's really easy. I always sharpen my own now. Only takes 1-2 strokes per tooth each or every other tank of fuel to keep it razor sharp.
Check out the Pferd chain sharp filing guide and Pferd CS-X. I have the basic chain sharp and it's really easy. I always sharpen my own now. Only takes 1-2 strokes per tooth each or every other tank of fuel to keep it razor sharp.
bigblue12v
ArboristSite Operative
I will try to sharpen more often. I tend to wait until it's noticeably dull which seems to be too late for a quick file job and by then I'm better off using bench grinder. I'll give that a shot. I think I'm OK at keeping file lines up through the stroke I just wait too long to do it and get frustrated.
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
Like RedFir said previously:
~ I also use a Peavey to roll log over rather than trying to get low in your cut.
Sometimes the logs are too big to roll without an initial deep cut or two, so on to my next tool ....
Sturdy wire brush
We get LOTS of dirt embedded into the bark around here, if the logs have sat during rain or been dragged at all.
I carry a sturdy wire brush to scrape out dirt from bark if I see any before each cut.
I hand sharpen after each fill up.
~ I also use a Peavey to roll log over rather than trying to get low in your cut.
Sometimes the logs are too big to roll without an initial deep cut or two, so on to my next tool ....
Sturdy wire brush
We get LOTS of dirt embedded into the bark around here, if the logs have sat during rain or been dragged at all.
I carry a sturdy wire brush to scrape out dirt from bark if I see any before each cut.
I hand sharpen after each fill up.
Excellent suggestion. I bought the Timberjack log lifter from Northern Tool this past spring and it works very well. I did get the fiberglas/steel composite handle that is really strong. To shore up the action, I added a couple of large washers to the pivot mechanism. It can lift up some pretty big logs, but I believe anything over 18" dia. is beyond its limit. So far, it's a keeper.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612314_200612314
Didn't read the whole thread but:
#1 rule.
Be smarter than the dirt.
#1 rule.
Be smarter than the dirt.
bigblue12v
ArboristSite Operative
If it's under 18" I usually have no trouble rolling it. I've thought about a timber jack before but buddy said that his dad's handle broke about the first time he used it. Don't know what brand. I could make one for that matter.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Sure you could make one but they're not that expensive. Use that time to cut wood. I think about $60 or less should get a decent one. Don't underestimate the engineering aspect to be able to grab the wood. Copying one would work better than creating one from scratch.
Sounds like you already know what you need to do, slow and steady wins the race.
Work smarter, not harder.
bigblue12v
ArboristSite Operative
Rainy days yield shop time, plenty of rainy days here lately. Record amounts here in Indiana... Getting a lot of wood from storm damage. I planned to copy one not going to reinvent the wheel... My cant hook has fiberglass handle and holding up great, figure all steel construction on a jack if I build one. I could probably just make a leg attachment for my hook that would pin in place on the steel part at the bottom.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
If you have a cant hook, just make a t-stand for it and you're done.
