Thanks Michael. Much appreciated. 25" is unfortunately a bit too long for the intended uses of my 241, but can I ask of the collective knowledgebase that is the good buggers in this thread whether they consider my 7900 will overpower picco chain? I ask because I have a 24 or 25" .063 3/8 Tsumura that perhaps I could replace with this LP bar and picco chain. My concerns would actually be two fold. First, would it hold up as well as the Tsumura (which is a proven to me stellar bar), and secondly, if my 7900 will overpower the chain and it'll break too early or I'll be taking links out every second day.
What say you, saw sages?
Hello,,,,
I am not going into what bar is best or who makes the best bars.
1st question I have for you is whats your intended use and timber type for which you intend to run your 7900, eg is it green pine, dry pine, native hard wood ect.
I cannot answer a useful answer regarding pine (green or dry) as I work in Australian native hardwoods (coastal).
In native hardwood, some timber species, your choice of chain is quite ok as long as you don't expect to run a long bar. Other species which have thick fibrous bark, that chain is totally useless unless you ringbark every tree. The reason LP chain is useless in this application is the narrow kerf, small gullet and tiny exit behind the tooth, in short the bark 1stly jams behind the chain on the bar, then clogs the little cutter solid as it cannot eject the chip out the rear of the tooth stalling the forward cutting motion. To get through thick bark, the chain needs a wider kerf, eg 063 gauge which allows the bar to not jam and the larger tooth can eject the chip / bark out the back thus maintaining forward cutting.
The worst (coastal native hardwoods) thick barked species sold every day for saw logs are Black butt, turp, red and white mahogany, most stringy bark species and tallow wood.
Tallow wood is one of the easier ones as its bark seems to not hinder the chain as much.
Adding to what Matt said about me running LP in racing, 1stly the racing arena has sized blocks (fresh usually) with no large knots ect and no bark. 2ndly, I only use 3/8Lp in 2 events, U100cc modified disc stacking (no bore cut and blocks 10'' to 12'') and U100cc post rip (sometimes depending on the timber species) the chain will stand crosscutting with modified U100cc saws (eg 395's or 066's) but is too slow in the bore to be competitive, again that small tooth working against itself.
I have successfully run 3/8LP on modified 3120's in training but its too unreliable and weak for that much power.
I guess I'm saying general saw usage and racing cannot be compared as the differences are many, as well as the skill factor between competitors who train on certain disciplines in different events a lot.
Cutting dry timber for fire wood, that's a hard job on man and his saw, they earn every cent they make cutting fire wood.
. There are a lot of crazies out there. Or rather, up here. This guy does not live far enough away from me.
