Tore my pump apart.. nothing visibly wrong.. which pump to buy now?

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blkcloud

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I carried my pump to a hydraulic shop this morning.. tore it down and could not find anything wrong with it.. measured all the bushings.. exactly .625.. measured the shafts.. all were .6245 and one was .6243.. I cant believe 1/2 of a thousandths would affect anything... i'm guessing these were made this size to allow a little oil flow between the shaft and the bushing.. all the o rings and seals were fine.. no metal shavings, nothing.. pump looked brand new... I have had it for about 6 months so it should... well i'm going to buy another one.. dont know what else to do..what pump do most of you use? this one was a mte.. I have had barns and had good luck with them.. thanks!
 
this may sound silly. did you move the return valve back to neutral? if not. the pump will seem bad. how do i know!!!
 
When I run my processor for about 10 minutes.. The pressure going into my value would only reach 1000 psi.. Not the normal 2000 or so.. Not enough to split most of them wood I'm cutting.. In my previous post the census was my pump was shot..
 
Where did you place the pressure gauge? In an earlier post of yours you said at the back of the cylinder

Still got issues.. This time my fluid level is right, my choke is not on.. But when I get onto a tough piece my splitter is stalling.. Not the gas engine but the hydraulics.. So I put a 3k psi gauge inline at the port on the back of my cylinder .. It will jump to 1000 psi and just sit there.. Any suggestions as what I need to check? Thanks!

If that's where you had placed the gauge then it makes sense that as your oil heats up you lose pressure because the seals in your cylinder may be shot. Once the oil thins the seals can not hold the oil from passing. If you did place the gauge right off the back of the pump and you're losing pressure when the valve is not open then it the pump, but if the pressure drop only occurs when you open the valve it's probably not the pump.
 
When I run my processor for about 10 minutes.. The pressure going into my value would only reach 1000 psi.. Not the normal 2000 or so.. Not enough to split most of them wood I'm cutting.. In my previous post the census was my pump was shot..


I said it was either a pump issue OR in the relief valve/control valve.

Sounds like you just need to bring the whole splitter into someone vs shotgun troubleshooting.
 
Where did you place the pressure gauge? In an earlier post of yours you said at the back of the cylinder



If that's where you had placed the gauge then it makes sense that as your oil heats up you lose pressure because the seals in your cylinder may be shot. Once the oil thins the seals can not hold the oil from passing. If you did place the gauge right off the back of the pump and you're losing pressure when the valve is not open then it the pump, but if the pressure drop only occurs when you open the valve it's probably not the pump.
After talking with the tech guy at Prince hydraulics , I moved it to where it was immediately in front of my control valve.. He assured me that it was not my valve.. And just like where it was at the rear of the cylinder.. It only measured 1000 psi there also..
 
I said it was either a pump issue OR in the relief valve/control valve.

Sounds like you just need to bring the whole splitter into someone vs shotgun troubleshooting.
That would be nice to do but... No one close by works on any thing like this...
 
Run it till it gets weak then put the gauge right off the pump, no vavling nothing... Then fire itback up and servwhat you get.

Still 1000 psi pumps failed or oil supply issue.

Over 1000 you have other issues.
 
Run it till it gets weak then put the gauge right off the pump, no vavling nothing... Then fire itback up and servwhat you get.

Still 1000 psi pumps failed or oil supply issue.

Over 1000 you have other issues.
I did this exact test... Pump shot up to 3500 psi and killed the motor... That's when I called the prince tech guy and told him what it did when I dead headed the system... He swore up and down that the control valve could not have anything to do with my issue... I took my pump to the shop the next day and we could not find anything wrong with it.. I plumbed the gauge in the line with a T between the pump and the valve..
 
After talking with the tech guy at Prince hydraulics , I moved it to where it was immediately in front of my control valve.. He assured me that it was not my valve.. And just like where it was at the rear of the cylinder.. It only measured 1000 psi there also..

What does the gauge measure when the valve is closed?
 
When it's in what I call neutral.. It has no reading.. When I push it forward to split and the ram stops .. it reads 1000 psi.. Is this what your calling closed?
 
I did this exact test... Pump shot up to 3500 psi and killed the motor... That's when I called the prince tech guy and told him what it did when I dead headed the system... He swore up and down that the control valve could not have anything to do with my issue... I took my pump to the shop the next day and we could not find anything wrong with it.. I plumbed the gauge in the line with a T between the pump and the valve..

Not sure exactly what you did there, but if you read 3500 & it killed the motor seems to me that would rule out the pump. Wouldn't it?
 
When it's in what I call neutral.. It has no reading.. When I push it forward to split and the ram stops .. it reads 1000 psi.. Is this what your calling closed?

Ok, your pump will only create enough pressure to overcome the load it's presented. So my assumption is when your oil gets hot and thins out the cylinder is allowing fluid to flow past it. This allows the pump to create flow with out building any pressure. The only other way this would happen is if the valve was failing and allowing fluid to flow through it but since you show 0 psi in neutral I doubt that is the problem. Is the cylinder old or new?
 

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