Upside down skid steer splitter opionins.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Farm tractors always were rated on what they actually will do, like "PTO" hp and flow "at the remotes"... Then compacts came along, and the mfg of them wanted to make them sound better on paper, so they started rating them by engine hp and what the hydraulic pump puts out MAX...

NOW you have to dig for the real performance numbers, so start by calling your parts guy and ask him what your model tractor's hy. flow is, at the remotes. I've also found that info in the shop manuals I've bought for the compacts I've owned.

SR
just my own curious question...

to my knowledge, skidsteer are still the same way. somebody correct me if im wrong. bobcat told me once that all the ratings for pressure and flow were given at the remotes
 
Farm tractors always were rated on what they actually will do, like "PTO" hp and flow "at the remotes"... Then compacts came along, and the mfg of them wanted to make them sound better on paper, so they started rating them by engine hp and what the hydraulic pump puts out MAX...

NOW you have to dig for the real performance numbers, so start by calling your parts guy and ask him what your model tractor's hy. flow is, at the remotes. I've also found that info in the shop manuals I've bought for the compacts I've owned.

SR
I had this remote put on after purchase . I had a cylinder put on one of my lower links of the 3 point to raise or lower one side for leveling a 40 foot boom sprayer on hills. It moves really fast almost to fast. The dealer mechanic tookthe detent out of the control because my dad left it on one day and overheated the fluid and burnt threw the power steering hoses that were resting on the hydro lines. Could this have made it faster
 
no. even if there was some silly reason that taking the detent out would give you a gain, the damage caused to the pump due to overheating would cancel it out. but the aftermarket remote, depending how it was plumbed and where they rob the oil from, could make it use most of the 12.7
 
no. even if there was some silly reason that taking the detent out would give you a gain, the damage caused to the pump due to overheating would cancel it out. but the aftermarket remote, depending how it was plumbed and where they rob the oil from, could make it use most of the 12.7
They fixed it under warranty thankfully. I'm not sure what they all replaced but that was about a year ago and seems to work fine. He was playing with switches when the tractor was off and then later started it and didn't notice the load on the engine. It burnt through some wires too. I wasn't happy.
 
no. even if there was some silly reason that taking the detent out would give you a gain, the damage caused to the pump due to overheating would cancel it out. but the aftermarket remote, depending how it was plumbed and where they rob the oil from, could make it use most of the 12.7

I'm guessing it wasn't an after market remote... It's another thing they do to compact tractors, most spec them without remotes to keep the price down, then jack you up later when you want one, with a "dealer install" price. They wanted $1,200.00 to put remotes on one compact I bought!

Personally, I'd want the detent, (it has no affect on flow) is useful for "continual flow" to something like a log splitter or big press, like the one that run off my tractor. Then again, some folks just bungy cord the lever down for that.

SR
 
here is a video of the one I made. it cost mostly time. i scrounged most of the steel. i had to buy the hoses and fittings.
 
I'm guessing it wasn't an after market remote... It's another thing they do to compact tractors, most spec them without remotes to keep the price down, then jack you up later when you want one, with a "dealer install" price. They wanted $1,200.00 to put remotes on one compact I bought!

SR

They have always done this to tractors. All the way back to the 60's when they started putting remote remotes if that makes since. Older tractors had the pump/control/remote hook ups all one unit right at the back of the tractor(some did have an engine or belly pump). In the early 60's with the introduction of the 4010 john deere they had components mounted separately. For example they had a variable displacement pump, stack valves besides the operators seat, and the actual connections mounted on the rear. If you wanted another remote it was another stack valve and another set of remote connections, somewhere north of 500 dollars back then. Many had one connection but as farmers found hydraulic power wonderful many got at least another. The big John deeres (100+hp) now come with 3 standard remotes but can add up to 8 on some models.
 
I never liked the idea of noodling, it's seems rough on the saws and takes time and effort. And yes I have a huge amount of big wood to deal with, I sell the wood and get a good price. After you deal with these big rounds for awhile you are willing to spend some money to make it easier. And we all know splitters hold their value, I can always sell it. I don't think the speed will be an issue. And I would get the 24 in so it don't have to travel far. I just seems like it would work so good, I'm so sick of fighting with those big Bastard ' s


I agree with you, noodling is a huge waste of time. Been thinking like you, for the last few years about getting a skid splitter, we get lots of huge rounds too, I'm talking 36-48 inches +

I quarter them with a wedge and the quarters are still too heavy for 1 guy to lift

Last skid splitter I looked at was 3500 $ didn't have the cash for it since wood is such a small % of our business,

But I'm sure as I get older I will find it a priority to look for one, new or used...........
 
i guess i dont mind a little trigger time on a big saw. but thats just me. and a big round for me is in the 25-28" range max
 
i guess i dont mind a little trigger time on a big saw. but thats just me. and a big round for me is in the 25-28" range max
I noodle the ones that are too knotted to split and sell. And my dad or brother in law burns them. But I'm in it to sell as much as I can. I pay the landowners $40 per cord unsplit and I get $360 a cord split and seasoned for oak by me. I have to streamline the process and make it easier on me I won't cut an oak down under 25inches unless something is wrong with it. The 20 acre woods I'm working now is full of huge Oaks and hickory. It's never been touched with a saw. I have got the Ok to cut anything I want. If I see a nice big tree I cut it down. Then I walk 20 feet and cut another one. There is one that is 6 foot plus in diameter. I am not gonna bother with that one.
 
wow. well then id say you NEED a skid splitter. i was thinkin for some strange reason it was just a hobby or maybe a side job. sounds justifiable to me. and like the others have said, if its too slow, just get a PTO pump to run it on. a 40 hp tractor will run a 21GPM prince 540 PTO pump just fine. ran one many times myself
 
wow. well then id say you NEED a skid splitter. i was thinkin for some strange reason it was just a hobby or maybe a side job. sounds justifiable to me. and like the others have said, if its too slow, just get a PTO pump to run it on. a 40 hp tractor will run a 21GPM prince 540 PTO pump just fine. ran one many times myself
how much are those? i guess that would be a back up plan. i talked to the splitter dealer and he said anything over 9 should be ok. i noticed some of the older compacts were runing like 6.3 gpm . in my specs it advertises a tandem high capacity pump 12.7 gpm looks like they may have improved them. the hydraulics seem way quicker on this 30 horse than on my 45 horse new holland. it was the first thing i noticed when i test drove it.
 
wow. well then id say you NEED a skid splitter. i was thinkin for some strange reason it was just a hobby or maybe a side job. sounds justifiable to me. and like the others have said, if its too slow, just get a PTO pump to run it on. a 40 hp tractor will run a 21GPM prince 540 PTO pump just fine. ran one many times myself
i see there like $600 for a 21gpm also do you need a fluid tank or do you plumb it into your tractor hydraulics.
 
They have always done this to tractors.

Not really, at least not since remotes have become "standard" on FARM tractors...

I haven't seen a NEW farm tractor come without "at least" one remote for more than 30 years, and only a couple compact brands have started coming with them recently...

BTW, double hydraulic pumps on a compact, (and on some farm tractors) only means that one of them is for the PS and the other is for everything else...

SR
 
Not really, at least not since remotes have become "standard" on FARM tractors...

I haven't seen a NEW farm tractor come without "at least" one remote for more than 30 years, and only a couple compact brands have started coming with them recently...

BTW, double hydraulic pumps on a compact, (and on some farm tractors) only means that one of them is for the PS and the other is for everything else...

SR
Also I got a gear drive not hydrostatic
 
Also it says it comes with hoses and flat faced connectors. I know the hoses are too short . But will the flat faced connectors hook up to my tractor. If not for a hundred less I can get it without hoses and connectors.
 
i have a skidsteer so id take the hoses and connectors but the flat faced connectors are normally only used on skidsteer. the rear remotes on your setup will most likely be pioneer style
 
I gonna buy it. My next dilemma is do I buy a used medium duty dump truck or a dump trailer. I have a 2012 f 250 with 5000 miles on it. 6.2 gas engine . Has good power but will it pull a fully loaded 16 foot dumper. A older dump truck will cost the same as the trailer but then I got another thing to maintain and insurance. I have a 16 foot car trailer with 3 foot sides . I can haul about 2 cords of green. Would like to haul more. Also sick of unloading by hand or loader.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top