Very particular about my firewood

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I measure the bigger logs, it seems to me that the bigger the log the shorter I cut the blocks???

I usually just eyeball the cuts and it comes out ok.
I have a stack were I keep the perfect wood.
I have a pile where I put the unstackable wood and that gets burned first.

Good idea.I usually put the odd ball, odd shaped pieces in between my rows or on the very top.Sometimes though, I`ll get a shat load of real small diameter stuff, that tends to throw off the stacking a bit.I do try and make my rows look good, you can see it from the bathroom window, so it gets looked at alot.LOL I never did try the criss cross stacking, have you.
 
Good idea.I usually put the odd ball, odd shaped pieces in between my rows or on the very top.Sometimes though, I`ll get a shat load of real small diameter stuff, that tends to throw off the stacking a bit.I do try and make my rows look good, you can see it from the bathroom window, so it gets looked at alot.LOL I never did try the criss cross stacking, have you.
Suppose you "eyeball" a 28" diameter log and cut it 25" long. You split 35 logs from the big round. Then you discover that your stove accepts only a 24" log. Now, what do you do with 35 logs that are an inch too long to fit into the stove? Buy a case of beer and celebrate the event?

Criss-cross stacking logs on the ends (and occasionally in the middle) of a stack really works.
 
Suppose you "eyeball" a 28" diameter log and cut it 25" long. You split 35 logs from the big round. Then you discover that your stove accepts only a 24" log. Now, what do you do with 35 logs that are an inch too long to fit into the stove? Buy a case of beer and celebrate the event?

Criss-cross stacking logs on the ends (and occasionally in the middle) of a stack really works.
Another measurer.I get a handful of long wood every year,I either cut it in half or burn it upright in my potbelly.I cut 10 cord a year and don`t waste my time measuring.Go for it, if you have to though.I`ll take that beer too if your offering.:i know what size wood my stove takes.Why would I measure?So my pile looks good?So my stove burns efficient?I`ve never done it, so why would I even consider it?It`s a waste of time.:cheers:
 
I can guesstamate with-in an inch or two, but I have three stoves, that take 15", 24" and 30". So length isn't much of a problem, just have to remember to cut some under 15" for the little stove. The new splitter will only take 25", so shouldn't have any too long, for the big stove anyway.
 
I once blocked and split 10 cord for my MIL's furnace. Circa 22'' long.

Well ,to make a long story short, I ended up burning it all in a little airtight. Had to go through the whole pile and cut/split almost all of it. 11'' rounds burn fine...load them north/south instead of east/west.

But what a pain in the arse..........
 
For many years we cut all are wood at 16 inches and all the odd ball stuff would come home and I'd burn it in my stove. Now that I had an OWB I'd like to be around 18 inches or more but I find that the 16 inch cut is almost automatic so my piles look a bit funny (but only on the one side) Hard to teach an old dog new tricks. :)
 
For many years we cut all are wood at 16 inches and all the odd ball stuff would come home and I'd burn it in my stove. Now that I had an OWB I'd like to be around 18 inches or more but I find that the 16 inch cut is almost automatic so my piles look a bit funny (but only on the one side) Hard to teach an old dog new tricks. :)

:agree2:
 
I use a simple, effective method to get my firewood in uniform length. I took a tape meausure one day and found out that if I make a fist and then extend my thumb and my pinky finger away from one another, the distance between the tip of my thumb and my pinky is about 8". After I make my first cut on a log, I hold the saw my with my left hand and use my right hand to measure in 8" increments where to make my next cut, which takes about one second. I sell firewood in 16" and 24" lengths, which both happen to be multiples of 8. All of my firewood logs are within 2" of each other.

I used to just eyeball the length of the log when I only cut for my personal use, and it worked well enough for me. When I started selling firewood, I realized that I needed to sell a uniform product. Also, getting the logs the same length is important because a 4x4x8 stack of wood will not have as many gaps in it, which means that you are getting a true cord of wood. When I deliver a cord to a customer, they usually comment on the quality and uniformity of the firewood that I sell. Then they usually tell me that they will call me next time they need more firewood. :clap:

By the way, another important tip is to cut any knots out of a tree as you are cutting it into rounds so that you end up with mostly straight rounds that split easily and neatly. This makes splitting much faster and the logs come out much straighter when split.
 
I use a simple, effective method to get my firewood in uniform length. I took a tape meausure one day and found out that if I make a fist and then extend my thumb and my pinky finger away from one another, the distance between the tip of my thumb and my pinky is about 8". After I make my first cut on a log, I hold the saw my with my left hand and use my right hand to measure in 8" increments where to make my next cut, which takes about one second. I sell firewood in 16" and 24" lengths, which both happen to be multiples of 8. All of my firewood logs are within 2" of each other.
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So you measure each cut with your thumb and pinkie?That means if there is a 1000 pieces of wood in a cord, your doing that 1000 times?Just for 1 cord.So, for 10 cord, your measuring 10,000 times? And your still only within 2 inches.Now that just seems like waaay to much extra work. Maybe I`m missing something, but I did work in the firewood business for quite a few years,and for several different guys.Nobody every measured their cuts.When the skidder came in with a hitch, everbody dropped threir mauls and fired up their saws.The boss would tell us what size we were cutting that day, and we knew we had to stay under that size.The thing that brought back customers was quantity and variety.(mostly red oak, everybody wanted red oak).I`m not saying if never happened, I was a driver also, and did have to go back and pick up two cords that were overcut, but only once.And I think that guy was an Engineer.(enough said).LOL I`m not putting anybody down who measures and stacks their wood down to the closest centimeter, it just seems silly, cause your burning it all in the winter anyway.It`s just a pile of wood....:cheers:
 
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Yup I am very anal about my stacking:hmm3grin2orange:


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we measure our wood to sell. our customers seem to like this the most. we ask our crew to use a stick that has painted marks. I usually eye mine, but for some reason have not been able to get the guys good at it. we use our small cutoffs to split and sell be the bucket load for patio pits.

I like pretty stacks also

be safe
 
I rake my Chips up too. Then I use them to fill mud/water holes in my trail out back. works pretty good and keeps the mud down.
 
All my "splitter trash" ends up in rubbermaid bins, in the basement, and is used for starting fires, and getting a slight coal bed back up for larger splits of wood.

I don't have an issue with burning pieces of any shape or small lengths. My stove is pretty small, and I welcome the diversity of lengths and split sizes to pack it up tight for the overnight. Also, as a wood scrounge, you just have to take what you can get... Free is free!
 
All my "splitter trash" ends up in rubbermaid bins, in the basement, and is used for starting fires, and getting a slight coal bed back up for larger splits of wood.

I don't have an issue with burning pieces of any shape or small lengths. My stove is pretty small, and I welcome the diversity of lengths and split sizes to pack it up tight for the overnight. Also, as a wood scrounge, you just have to take what you can get... Free is free!

Arent you worried about optimal heat efficiency and rated heat output like the DR. said?? :dizzy: LOL.
 
Arent you worried about optimal heat efficiency and rated heat output like the DR. said?? :dizzy: LOL.

LOL! If I pack my stove, and I get a 500-600* stove top temp, with full secondary burn and ghost flames in my firebox, I don't think I can do much better than that. I really don't believe for a second it makes a difference, especially seeing how stove manufactures are allowed to use whatever type of wood, at whatever moisture content to achieve their numbers. I'll never replicate their lab type environments for wood, or optimal burn conditions in my house anyway.

BTW, one of my favorite places to hunt is right pretty close to your location. I hunt deer hunt a few times a year in Chesterfield.
 
Suppose you "eyeball" a 28" diameter log and cut it 25" long. You split 35 logs from the big round. Then you discover that your stove accepts only a 24" log. Now, what do you do with 35 logs that are an inch too long to fit into the stove? Buy a case of beer and celebrate the event?

i have run into that and found my chop saw made quick work of trimming the pieces as i needed. much easier than breaking out the chainsaw to fix a few trying to hold them safely.
 
i have run into that and found my chop saw made quick work of trimming the pieces as i needed. much easier than breaking out the chainsaw to fix a few trying to hold them safely.

That's what I use, I find it works wonder on cutting the smaller stuff that I plan on leaving in round to burn as well. I generally split everything larger than my wrist, everything under stays round, but it's MUCH easier to cut with the chop saw.
 

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