Video of 026 Running

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I set them flat... parallel with the bottom of the carb.

Do you mean flush with the outside edge of the carb or just the opposite parallel with the inside "bottom" of the carb, where it is laying so to speak?

Also, The saw works better with the air filter off (just tried it, But it sprays gas back out of the carb whenever I throttle is that a bad thing?

I'll check the diaphragm/gaket order

Thanks for all the replys, Bill
 
Can you physically see the butterfly move when you adjust the LA screw? Yes, bottom diaphram against carb, top- gasket between it and the carb.

Yes the butterfly does move when I adjust the LA screw, I was wondering the same thing so just checked it.

Thanks,
Bill
 
Sure could, it almost sounds like the needle is letting too much fuel in. Try turning the low jet in a little if the speed doesn't pick up that would point to needle. bsnelling described tuning it well. Steve


The speed doesn's seem to change when I adjust the L jet.
 
Do you mean flush with the outside edge of the carb or just the opposite parallel with the inside "bottom" of the carb, where it is laying so to speak?

Also, The saw works better with the air filter off (just tried it, But it sprays gas back out of the carb whenever I throttle is that a bad thing?

I'll check the diaphragm/gaket order

Thanks for all the replys, Bill

Parallel with the gasket surface.

I didn't see an answer to the order in which you installed the pump diaphragm and gasket. It should be pump body, gasket, diaphragm. If you reverse that order, the diaphragm is too close to the needle lever and keeps it open, causing the saw to flood.

Some spray is normal. Excessive spray indicates a worn piston skirt.
 
Last edited:
Parallel with the gasket surface.

I didn't see an answer to the order in which you installed the pump diaphragm and gasket. It should be pump body, gasket, diaphragm. If you reverse that order, the diaphragm is too close to the needle lever and keeps it open, causing the saw to flood.

Some spray is normal. Excessive spray indicates a worn piston skirt.

And if your needle isn't working right you'll have excessive spray too. No speed change when you turn the low adjuster in would indicate the needle letting to much fuel in.. Steve
 
Progress Update

Parallel with the gasket surface.

I didn't see an answer to the order in which you installed the pump diaphragm and gasket. It should be pump body, gasket, diaphragm. If you reverse that order, the diaphragm is too close to the needle lever and keeps it open, causing the saw to flood.

Some spray is normal. Excessive spray indicates a worn piston skirt.

1. The pump diaphragm and gasket were installed in the correct order

2. I adjusted the needle lever down

3. NOW, the LA screw actually works!

4. I started adjusting and put the LA screw to right before the chain starts turning.

5. It was idling slowly and started adjusting the L screw, I was getting it to adjust, and thought I found a good place for the L.

6. Now the saw idles for a bit and SLOWLY dies down to quitting.

Thanks for the replys, As crazy as it might seem I feel like I'm making progress thanks to everyones help!

Bill
 
I would pull the muffler and have a look inside.From the video it does not seem to have a lot of resistance when pulling the rope. A compression tester will give you an idea as to whats going on inside the cylinder.
 
Do the RPM rise when you turn L screw in? Sounds like it is running rich. Also, turn the H screw in a little, as it does get a little fuel at idle from that circuit. Make sure to check at WOT for the BLURB or 4 cycling after that. You don't want to lean sieze it.
 
Last edited:
I was reading on a para-glider site how to get them to idle smooth, A very small portion of idle circuit comes from H jet. Not much, but they imphasized having to to adjust it to get their flying machines to idle nice. I cannot find it right now (had a few brews) but it did specify having to tweak the H jet just a little. Just a little bit!

They also enlarged the hole in the butterfly valve a hair, as they would run too rich at idle while at a higher elevation. I researched the WT carb a lot, that is where I found the best info on tuning these carbs. Those guys take their carb tuning serious!
 
Thanks for the reply scootr,

I started with both H and L out one turn.
If I adjusted the L in, the saw wanted to bog down and die.
If I adjusted it out it seemed to run louder.

Is this the opposite of what should happen?

Bill
 
I was reading on a para-glider site how to get them to idle smooth, A very small portion of idle circuit comes from H jet. Not much, but they imphasized having to to adjust it to get their flying machines to idle nice. I cannot find it right now (had a few brews) but it did specify having to tweak the H jet just a little. Just a little bit!

They also enlarged the hole in the butterfly valve a hair, as they would run too rich at idle while at a higher elevation. I researched the WT carb a lot, that is where I found the best info on tuning these carbs. Those guys take their carb tuning serious!
You can find that thread by looking under " Pop Off Pressure " 10 th one on the list
:chainsaw:
 
Try adjusting the H and L screws in a bit, if your needle adjustment is off, you can compensate with the jets. I had the same problem when I did one, first try had to have them both out almost 2 full turns. Second try after bending needle fulcrum, both had to be about 1/2 turn out to run good. Third try was a charm, split the differance, and all was well.

Needle adjustment on these carbs is critical, that is why they are able to run in any position. That needle valve controls fuel at any angle. If I remember b.(again, had a few brews) the top of the fulcrum lever should be around 1/16" or a little less from the top of the carb. Lay a straight edge across it, Check it.
I took mine apart about 3 times and adjusted that before I got it right.

If it is running too rich, try turning both screws in about a half turn. If things improve, you are getting too much fuel through needle valve. Bend the fulcrum lever down just a hair, it is touchy. I did this process until the saw ran great at about 1 1/8 turns out on both jets. This was on an Walbro WT16b. Make sure all passages and screens are clear, did you change the fuel filter in this? Fish stresses the importance of this, I can vouch for this. The old filters had a foam type filter inside them, after several years these fall apart and wind up in your carb. Plugging up important holes. Try turning the screws in, if things improve, most likely the needle valve is letting too much fuel in. Or you could have pieces of that old filter clogging it.

These are very simple carbs, but they have to be adjusted correct, and they have to be clean. Good luck, keep us posted on results, we will figure this out.
 
Thanks for the reply scootr,

I started with both H and L out one turn.
If I adjusted the L in, the saw wanted to bog down and die.
If I adjusted it out it seemed to run louder.

Is this the opposite of what should happen?

Bill

It just shows your L isn't rich enough. Either... your metering needle isn't set at the correct height (arm level with the bosses in the bottom of the metering chamber), or, you have a slight air leak. It's not unusual for L on a older saw to be set at 1.25 to 1.5 out. Set the L for max idle, then turn it 1/4 turn richer. turn up LA to compensate.

You don't need to fiddle with the pop-off pressure... fix the actual problem.
 
Last edited:
Is there a household item that will help me set the metering needle lever to the .060-.070 recommended by the Stihl carb kit instructions for this carb model?
I just read lakesides post that recommended the metering needle be level with the bosses, is that the top of the needle? What part of the metering needle mechanism is supposed to be level with the top of the bosses?

Bill
 
Last edited:
Is there a household item that will help me set the metering needle lever to the .060-.070 recommended by the Stihl carb kit instructions for this carb model?
I just read lakesides post that recommended the metering needle be level with the bosses, is that the top of the needle? What part of the metering needle mechanism is supposed to be level with the top of the bosses?

Bill

That's the TIP of the arm..... dead easy without any tool...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top