Video of 026 Running

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secureland

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The 026 is back together, with a new carb kit. I set the H and L out 1 turn and it dies out after it idles for a few seconds.

This is what it sound like, How can I adjust the carb and improve this?

Thanks, Bill

 
To my ear it sounds like the idle speed is too low. Turn the LA in until the chain starts to run, and then back it off until it stops.
 
I would agree, crank up the idle setting and go from there
 
To my ear it sounds like the idle speed is too low. Turn the LA in until the chain starts to run, and then back it off until it stops.

Yes..............but IMO it sounds like it's low on compression, when you
are cranking it over. Piston almost sounds like it's free wheeling at very
first of video, before saw starts.
 
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The 026 is back together, with a new carb kit. I set the H and L out 1 turn and it dies out after it idles for a few seconds.

This is what it sound like, How can I adjust the carb and improve this?

Thanks, Bill

Is the carb kit the only thing you have done to this saw?
 
This saw had not been run in a long time. I couldn't get it started (it would start briefly with gas directly in the carb) and was advised to start with a carb kit and vac. testing. I did the carb kit, removed the fuel line and filter, inspected those, inspected the impulse line, thourouighly cleaned the air filter and did a thorough cleaning on most of the inside and outside of the saw. It took me some time as I'm new to working on saws.
I have not done the vac or pressure test yet. I was hoping to get the carb tuned and have the saw running well.


I looked at the piston from both the intake and exhaust side and it appears to be very good (no obvious scratches unlike an 029 I've seen).

Thanks for the replys,
Bill
 
I'd give another shot at tuning the carb. Here's how I do it.

-Lightly bottom both needles out and then turn out one full turn.
-Warm up the saw a little.
-Through out this process, keep the idle speed set just so that it doesn't die and the chain isn't spinning. Don't try to fine tune it yet.
-Set the low speed needle where the saw idles the fastest and then back it out 1/8-1/4 turn.
-Then adjust the high speed needle while running the saw at WOT. Make sure it's running too rich and then turn it in until it quits 4-stroking and peaks out. Richen back up a little from there until it's tries to 4-stroke just a little.
-Go back and play with the low speed needle and fine tune it to where you get the best throttle response from idle.
-Once satisfied with that recheck the high speed setting again.
-Finally set the idle where it doesn't want to die but where the chain isn't spinning either.
-Go cut wood!
 
I had a carb on one of my 026's that gave me a fit. I put in a rebuild kit twice and even had Tom check it out. I ended up getting a new carb...runs great.

Try to adjust the LA like mentioned above. If that doesn't work, see if you can find a known good carb to try out. If still no go, do the vac test. Test your compression also.
 
I attemted to tune it, (H and L were set at 1 turn out) THE RESULTS;

1. I got the saw started
2. It didn't want to idle (I had to keep squeezing the throttle)
3. I adjusted the Idle screw as far as it would go in both directions, and at no point did the chain start to spin on it's own or did it idle on it's own. It continually wanted to die out
4. Black smoky exhaust was coming out the entire time (3 minutes)
5. Finally would not start (flooded)
6. Let it sit for 5 minutes
7. Restarted, but will not idle
8. Doesn't seem to matter where I have the idle screw set, it dies out
9. I poured a bit of gas into the muffler end of the cylinder and pulled the cord, I didn't see bubbling of air or gas (I've been told this is a way to check compression, also the saw passes the drop test)

????
Thanks,
Bill
 
When I rebuilt the carb, the kit recomended a .060-.070 gap from the top of the needle lever to the edge of the carb. I eyed this gap in.
Could the needle lever adjustment be causing these problems?

Thanks,
Bill
 
Yes, I did a thorough cleaning job.

It seems like it's not getting enough air (smoky exhaust).

Not really sure where to go from here (except crazy, :) )
 
I rebuilt one a while ago, needle adjustment is touchy. First time, I had have both screws out almost 2 turns. Take it apart again, bend the lever a little, 1/2 turn on screws. Take it apart again, split the diff, perfect!

If I ever do another one, I will have the Walbro guage. Will save a lot of time.
 
When I rebuilt the carb, the kit recomended a .060-.070 gap from the top of the needle lever to the edge of the carb. I eyed this gap in.
Could the needle lever adjustment be causing these problems?

Thanks,
Bill
Sure could, it almost sounds like the needle is letting too much fuel in. Try turning the low jet in a little if the speed doesn't pick up that would point to needle. bsnelling described tuning it well. Steve
 
One more thing

The carb kit I had didn't have a rubber diaphhram that matched mine. It had a clear blue plastic one that did match. The rubber one in the kit blocked off one of the passages. I used the plastic one, worked good.
 

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