Want a great case for yer MS066 / 660? Here's How

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Bounty Hunter

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OK...Some might have a problem with this...a Stihl in a Husky box...but I go with what works.
Stihl / Husky...Ford /Chevy...Sig / Glock...Sure brand loyalty is great but they all work. Kinda like German and Swedish beer...Both good, just different.

The Husky "Power Box" is big and roomy, just not big enough to fit the mighty MS 066 / 660. However, with a few modifications they will fit great.

First, set yer saw in the case and notice that the front handle hits the back of the box...start by marking the inside of the case around the handle...

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There are lots of ways to cut plastic...A dremel tool, a Roto-Zip, I used a soldering gun with a flat tip...it melts through the plastic with ease. Make sure you only cut through the "inner" wall of the case, so don't allow the tip to get too deep.

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Next, the saws "Big Dawgs" have to be let in as well. Set the saw back in the case, checking the clearence you made for the front handle. the dawgs need to have two small holes clearenced for them for the saw to sit lower. mark them with yer Sharpie and cut them out. If yer saw has small dawgs, you might be able to skip this step. Here in there parts, with the loose 2 - 3 inch thick Jeffery and Ponderosa bark, big dawgs are a must.

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Next, the front cover of the box will need to be modified. there's a rectangular embossment on the cover to cut out, to clear the outer dawgs and the front of the clutch cover. You will then need to close the front of the box against the saw, and mark where the front lid hits the front edge of the front handle...in the case of a factory Flush Cut handle...Mark and cut these next, again only through the "inner" layer of plastic.

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Sit yer saw in the box, check all the clearencing you did...the front lid of the box should close easily without binding or pressure.
You will need to engage your chain brake...to move the the lever a little forward and down...to close the top lid, but it too should close and latch without binding.

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There you go! All that's left to do now is take a big Magic Marker and write "066" or "660" on the case, so you will remember who's inside. I personally stuff the saw into an old Harley T-shirt before it goes in the case...protects it just that much more. Now yer saw can ride around in the back of the truck, trailer or on the wood and be much safer.

Yer done...Go grab a German or Swedish Beer...That's still your choice! :cheers:
 
Well done bounty hunter! I have a husky case in the attic that i am going to fab for my 460 if it needs to fit . And as for putting a stihl in a husky case or a husky in a stihl case, well its the saw in the case that gets the job done. I like both brands .:clap:
 
This is the first time I saw this post. I like it.

Just a note - I modified a Husqvarna PowerBox for a slightly different purpose (see: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/171693-2.htm post #21).

Where I cut into the hollow plastic walls, I shot in some spray insulating foam, let it cure, then trimmed and painted it to match. It returns some of the rigidity of the blow molded box. It is often possible with this type of plastic to weld the cut-out pieces back to the box with the same soldering gun if you want to reinforce the cut-away areas.

Philbert
 
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I use these to put my saws in

I mark out were the bar will stick out and I drill two holes with a 25mm hole saw at the top and bottom of the slot and then use a jig saw to connect the holes. I put the saw in and then place the scabbard over the bar

These Crates have enough room for a fuel can, bar oil and some tools and my PPE wedges hatchet and they can come with a lid.

I do place an absorbent bad in the bottom of the crate like you find in a spill kit

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Case for MS660

I used a similar method to what David Saltas used. My wife wanted the Stihl MS 660 out of the hallway where it has sat since March when I used it to cut some 30 inch red oak up for firewood. I wasn't about to store a $1000.00 chain saw ($1,300.00 with extra bar and chains) in a shed where it could be stolen!
I bought a Plano XXL Storage Trunk size 37 3/4 inches by 18 1/4 inches by 14 inches (exterior measurements) from Home Depot. I used a 3/4 inch paddle bit to drill out the top and bottom of the cut for the bar and cover and a 3/8 inch paddle bit to cut out the top and bottom for my 36 inch bar and cardboard container. I cut out the material between the top and bottom of the pilot holes with a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Look at the attached pictures. I had to make the hole for the bar and sheath a little longer with the jig saw but the cut out for the 36 inch bar was perfect with the first try! I measured up 1 1/2 inches from the bottom for the 3/4 inch paddle drill hole for the bar and cover and made the cut right next to the side of the molded indentation for the handle. Make sure that you make the holes for the bars on the end opposite the wheels. I placed the cuts for the 36 inch bar and cover so that it sat on top of the inside cover for the wheel.
You get a big roomy storage container for your MS 660 and can secure it in the back of your truck and can stack things on top of it when stored in your home.

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I used a similar method to what David Saltas used. My wife wanted the Stihl MS 660 out of the hallway where it has sat since March when I used it to cut some 30 inch red oak up for firewood. I wasn't about to store a $1000.00 chain saw ($1,300.00 with extra bar and chains) in a shed where it could be stolen!
I bought a Plano XXL Storage Trunk size 37 3/4 inches by 18 1/4 inches by 14 inches (exterior measurements) from Home Depot. I used a 3/4 inch paddle bit to drill out the top and bottom of the cut for the bar and cover and a 3/8 inch paddle bit to cut out the top and bottom for my 36 inch bar and cardboard container. I cut out the material between the top and bottom of the pilot holes with a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Look at the attached pictures. I had to make the hole for the bar and sheath a little longer with the jig saw but the cut out for the 36 inch bar was perfect with the first try! I measured up 1 1/2 inches from the bottom for the 3/4 inch paddle drill hole for the bar and cover and made the cut right next to the side of the molded indentation for the handle. Make sure that you make the holes for the bars on the end opposite the wheels. I placed the cuts for the 36 inch bar and cover so that it sat on top of the inside cover for the wheel.
You get a big roomy storage container for your MS 660 and can secure it in the back of your truck and can stack things on top of it when stored in your home.

Here are the rest of the pictures:

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Maybe I missed it but how much was the storage box? Looks like a good idea to haul your accessories in on the quad/mule/etc. Those plastics and such on the saw arent cheap so may as well protect them plus haul your stuff. Good work!
 
OK...Some might have a problem with this...a Stihl in a Husky box...but I go with what works.

For what its worth thats a non issue. The box is a generic saw box, same as the one that Echo has been giving as a freebie all summer with a saw purchase. Only difference is the name on the outside. Marked Made in the USA anyhow.
 
Maybe I missed it but how much was the storage box? Looks like a good idea to haul your accessories in on the quad/mule/etc. Those plastics and such on the saw arent cheap so may as well protect them plus haul your stuff. Good work!

The Plano box from Home Depot cost $30.00. I meant to put that in and forgot.
 

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