wedges in felling big'uns

[TheTreeSpyder]

If the FaceCut, comes back far enough for the resulting hinge pivot back further than the CG/tcg; then logically, without other forces acting; the tree will fall into the face.

Wedging can help place the CG out past this pivot by lifting if slight backlean; or secure against other forces (wind, miscalculation etc.). Wedging can also force the hinge stronger by pressurizing hinge during folding. The gravity of the tree will force the hinge to 'X' strength; the extra tension of wedge, will like force hinge stronger like a bigger tree would. Then, tree lifts off of wedge, and pressure stops (from wedge), so now only tree pressure on the forced stronger hinge.

Bringing Facecut in further, helps to fall to Face as said.

Slanting BackCut downwards and wedging, reduces the arching motion, and thereby reduces the leverage that way. So it takes more power for the same effect, but the stump side is slanted on BackCut then too; this weakens the 'back stop' that more power must be applied to for the same effect!

 

[a_lopa]

i know of a local guy faller that got impaled by a falling dead stick thru his shoulder,i dont look up for that reason just listern and watch the hinge allways out on a 45

 

[wiley_p]

just listen and watch, sometimes Iwonder about people, you arent looking up at the hazard so how can you watch? your saw is running I guess youy have earplugs in. You make no case whatsoever nor does Erik.

 

[NeTree]

Hazards should be identified before you ever even start cutting; so why the big need to look up? Your saw isn't up in the tree top.

DUH.

 

[Gypo Logger]

An interesting technique is shown in the following picture.
Dennis has lightly set a wedge in the backcut after removing sufficient bark. The wedge hangs down, thereby detecting if the wedge stands up than the tree must be closing on the backcut. Or if the wedge falls out than the tree is where it was intended to go.
John

 

[NeTree]

Originally posted by Gypo Logger
An interesting technique is shown in the following picture.
Dennis has lightly set a wedge in the backcut after removing sufficient bark. The wedge hangs down, thereby detecting if the wedge stands up than the tree must be closing on the backcut. Or if the wedge falls out than the tree is where it was intended to go.
John

Meanwhile he can pay more attention to what he's doing.

 

[Ax-man]

Pretty slick trick with that wedge.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Dam John(Dennis), that iz a cool trick. I can't wait to show it to someone!

 

[wiley_p]

Maybe you run a saw differently than I Erik I've only been cutting for 18 years I can always learn something from folks just so far not from anything youve said on this topic, If you went in the woods with some of your technique I think you may modify things after a couple of days of poor produciton and screaming.

 

[NeTree]

wiley...

You're absolutely right- I must be wrong.

Now I'm sure I've been doing it wrong for the last 22 years. I'll have to hand over my tape and crayon, and find something else to do for a living.

 

[wiley_p]

if you have really cut in the woods remember the subject was wedges in big timber, you wouldnt be so steadfast in what you are saying, never said you didnt know what you were doing but you said DUH to me remember like I dont know whats up, sos whatsay we get togeher sometime and see what the othewr is made of its been my experience you New England boys are good at what you do in your little part of the country, but you have some strange habits, and maybe 22 years there is only 10 years out here.

 

[NeTree]

Nope. You win. I don't know a thing.










Well, I DO at least have better grammar.

 

[Big Dutchman]

wiley_p,

Reading back on this thread you said you use a wedge on every tree. That will not gain you any production, in fact it will make you be much slower on the stump. As soon as you pound your wedge up tight you lose the feel of the tree. My experience has taught me to use a wedge when needed.

 

[xander9727]

Erik,
All the trees east of the Rockies are no bigger than 15" dbh and no taller than 65'. Don't you know anything?

Everyone knows it's easier to fell a tree in an urban setting with multiple targets than a forest.

I prefer using a back release method and wedges on large trees. This prevents the tree from moving until after you're done sawing. Then you can look up after each swing of the axe/sledgehammer to look for falling debris. Addtionally it is easy to detect when the tree begins to move.

My $.02

 

[wiley_p]

I stick a wedge in on every tree except those favored to the lay, I rarely have to use my axe, a tap with another wedge sets it in the kerf and sometimes a couple more taps is needed, you are correct though. Thats why my axes are painted dayglo because often the axe is with the fuel and my pack.

 

[NeTree]

Originally posted by xander9727
Erik,
All the trees east of the Rockies are no bigger than 15" dbh and no taller than 65'. Don't you know anything?

Everyone knows it's easier to fell a tree in an urban setting with multiple targets than a forest.

My $.02

 

[NeTree]

xander, you mean like this?

 

[NeTree]

This should give you some idea on the proximity of the house...

 

[glens]

What are you guys going to be like when cabin fever sets in?

Erik, you're supposed to look <i><b>up</b></i>!&nbsp; Now I'm thinking you're not really from MA, but Kentucky or Tennessee!

 

[NeTree]

Now, if you want a reason to look up, here it is... ME.