Welding of a top handle and replacement rubber for handles

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buck futter said:
cut4fun I would think there would be an easier "fix" you know what I mean?
Right now I got the broken one as a extra, needs welded. I also have one without the rubber covering. Then I also have one with extras on the way, that I traded 6 different pioneer/partner service manuals for. So I hope you see why I didnt respond back to the pm. :cheers:
 
buck futter said:
lakeside what about lubing the tubing with some dishsoap or some other water soluble lubricant, perhaps even a personal lubricant? hahaha

cut4fun I would think there would be an easier "fix" you know what I mean?

I've used lube of all types, but it's still a struggle... the lube quickly gets blown out, and usually I want to paint the exposed parts so I don't use any lube. The lube leaks out from under the rubber edges and messes with the the paint. Painting first just doesn't work.

The other problem with lube is that you end up with it on your hands and now you can't get a decent grip!
 
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Lakeside53 said:
I've used lube of all types, but it's still a struggle... the lube quickly gets blown out, and usually I want to paint the exposed parts so I don't use any lube. The lube leaks out from under the rubber edges and messes with the the paint. Painting first just doens't work.

The other problem with lube is that you end up with it on your hands and now you can't get a decent grip!
What if you had the stihl rep girl use the lube first and apply it and hold the handle so you could slip it in easier for a tighter fit, then your hands stay clean to work with :hmm3grin2orange:
 
lakeside if you want I could draw you a picture the stihl girl utilizing personal lubricant to assist with the handle.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Freakingstang said:
That's what she said.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Mine too, thats what I get fer getting married in da first place, thank dog thats near done with finally. Would penetrating oils work?
:yoyo: :yoyo:

GO LIONS GO!!!!!!!!!!!! WOOT!!!!
 
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Howdy Fellas,

Funny stuff. Now I may have an answer. When I was in Korea in the Armament shop we had a General Dynamics team come in and rebuild our tester cables. They used and left us some 10 to 1 heat shrink that was the best I have ever seen. I cant remember the brand name on it though but it would work for redoing a handle. We had to use a higher power heat gun to shrink it but the stuff was thick and rubbery when done and held up good to the abuse we put it through. Dragging test cables across table edges, weapons pylons and missle launchers and the like. It was tough stuff and its what we need to redo our handles. I will have to look around the web. If I see the name it will come back to me maybe.

v/r

Mike
 
Never thought of that, heat shrink in that size. let us know ok.
 
Howdy again Folks,

I don't see the heat shrink I mentioned on an earlier post (10 to !) but I do see a wide selection of the stuff out there. I used this stuff in the military back in 1986. That 10 to 1 ratio allowed us to reinforce our test cable connections without disassembling the cannon plugs and backshells. It did work well but for a chainsaw handle you would not need that drastic of a shrink ratio. I see some thick walled flexible stuff out there on some sites that should work well. They were selling by 100 foot rolls though. The best bet may be to take your handle to your nearest industrial supply store and show them what you want to do. They should be able to spool off a few feet. As opposed to buying 100 feet. I'm on a slow dial up connection and cant really do alott of looking.

Also I remenber my Dad (has passed on) use to make his own golf clubs and would use lighter fluid to put the rubber handles on.

It looks like there are options out there though.

v/r
Mike
 
Lighter fluid, that should get the ole girls fire burning again:hmm3grin2orange:
 
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We also used a rubber tape to repair wiring harness, we called it F-4 tape. It came in black or orange and had a very thin green stripe down the middle. It was feul proof and it was fairly though stuff. Not sure about the uv proof but could of been. If you were very meticules when applying it it may do the job but not as even or uniform as heat shrink. The end would probably need to be tied off with wax cord or zip strip.

v/r

Mike
 
If it's the same stuff I've used, it needed "friction tape" on top to protect it. It also got soft in high temperatures. Might be a good short term fix, but the real handle rubber will last 25 years (even though it is a PITA to put one!)
 
Tapered

vegaome said:
We also used a rubber tape to repair wiring harness, we called it F-4 tape. It came in black or orange and had a very thin green stripe down the middle. It was feul proof and it was fairly though stuff. Not sure about the uv proof but could of been. If you were very meticules when applying it it may do the job but not as even or uniform as heat shrink. The end would probably need to be tied off with wax cord or zip strip.

v/r

Mike
Mike , I've used that on harnesses also . It was the high priced stuff that was tapered on the edge so that if you wrapped it to overlap the green line it would become the same thickness . The same company makes a comercial non mil-spec marine product that is not tapered and is called Rubbaweld .
 
That tape and .032 stainless safety wire held a good bit of the mighty F-4 Phantom II together. I wish I could remember the maker of that heat shrink. Mighty good stuff. Although someone mentioned rhino linning that stuff is pretty strong. Not sure it would feel the best. It may take me a while but I'm going to keep an eye out for some kind of heat shrink that will work.

v/r

Mike
 
Oops dial up connection said server busy, sorry duplicate post.

v/r

Mike
 
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I wonder if the stuff they use on baseball bats would work? Sort of spongy rubberized stuff and would make the handle thicker. Might not like gas though. Anybody tried that.
 
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