What chain brand YOU buy when u need one now (not online)

[Philbert]

Hard to know - sometimes 3rd party brands switch between different vendors, so the quality, and even the style, can vary quite a bit.
If the chain has the '000' stamped on the tie straps, at least you know what you are getting.

Philbert

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I buy stihl rs full comp. I can drive 5 minutes and have a loop made any size I want.

 

[JonCraig]

I buy stihl rs full comp. I can drive 5 minutes and have a loop made any size I want.

Exactly the same here.

 

[rd35]

I just finished skimming through the Tri-Link catalog Philbert listed. They have an engineering center in Portland. Their drive links have lubri-dam type channels on them like Stihl chain uses. Their literature is impressive. Just gotta get me a chain and see if I am impressed by it. I have sharpened a couple of Tri-link chains for customers and have seen the chrome plating on the cutters and the construction of the chain. Looks pretty nice to me. One thing I noticed is what was mentioned earlier by someone else. The chrome plating seems pretty thick. As my grinder wheel got dull on the back-side cutters the chrome had a tendency to peel (as it does with every brand chain I have ever sharpened...including Stihl). But when I rough-up my wheel the chrome seems to stay bonded to the base cutter steel better than most of the other chains. I found it to be a very workable chain for sharpening. Just need to find out if it stays sharp.

 

[Franny K]

If I need it now I will go to a particular place that is the closest. That would be a Husky dealer from where I am now in Ct and a Stihl dealer most likely in my out of area travels.

 

[Franny K]

I'm curious about the mix and match, please note if u have one saw brand but buy a different chain brand

This seems to be different than the title and presumably the poll. There are a lot of product choices, current and obsolete, just generalizing about brand does not apply to me. I do use the Stihl 61pmm3 on the Husky top handle saws.

 

[Little Al]

Here's a shot of the TriLink 0.325" full chisel after filing to proper angles and cutting a little ash. I like it, the chain cuts quite fast.
View attachment 527672

Here is some TriLink lo pro, but it is their older style. Also after cutting some ash (2 tanks on it):
View attachment 527673

And this is the lo pro in action. Saw is running at around 11krpm at the widest part of the log in both cuts, and the chain was not slowing things down:

In your video the bar appears to be jiggling/ chattering during the cut? could you feel this & on cut face was there saw tooth lines?

 

[Little Al]

Oregon, Husky, and JRed are all the same chain. Oregon makes them.

Some Husky chains .325 & maybe some Lo Pro are now produced in house ( In Europe anyway) & a good number of home owner chains are produced in Carlton & Windsor factories, although Blount own & produce all including Oregon

 

[Chris-PA]

In your video the bar appears to be jiggling/ chattering during the cut? could you feel this & on cut face was there saw tooth lines?

Good eye - yes it was bouncing, and I don't really know why. In truth I did not feel it thanks to the A/V system, but I saw it in the video. Curiously, I have another video (that I never uploaded) taken right after in a larger piece of the same tree, and it does not seem to be doing that as much. It might be because the saw is running at a slightly lower rpm in the larger round - maybe there is some sort of resonance going on, with more vibration due to higher rpm and lighter bars? This bar is cheap and light.

I can post that other vid later if you want, but it isn't too interesting otherwise.

I remember your earlier comments on VXL loops chattering. I have a 68DL loop of VXL on another ported 42cc Poulan and it was very smooth from the factory grind through several filings. Then I used the wrong gauge which set the depth gauges just a little too low, and now it's fairly grabby and bouncy. And that is a heavier, longer bar. I suppose it is possible that I made the same error on this Tri Link loop.

 

[Seedling345]

Good eye - yes it was bouncing, and I don't really know why. In truth I did not feel it thanks to the A/V system, but I saw it in the video. Curiously, I have another video (that I never uploaded) taken right after in a larger piece of the same tree, and it does not seem to be doing that as much. It might be because the saw is running at a slightly lower rpm in the larger round - maybe there is some sort of resonance going on, with more vibration due to higher rpm and lighter bars? This bar is cheap and light.

I can post that other vid later if you want, but it isn't too interesting otherwise.

I remember your earlier comments on VXL loops chattering. I have a 68DL loop of VXL on another ported 42cc Poulan and it was very smooth from the factory grind through several filings. Then I used the wrong gauge which set the depth gauges just a little too low, and now it's fairly grabby and bouncy. And that is a heavier, longer bar. I suppose it is possible that I made the same error on this Tri Link loop.

Isn't the bouncing from the rakers/depth gauges being a hair to low. Chain grabs to deep and the raker pops it correct or no?? Only asking cause I have a habit of takin the rakers to far and it bounces every time until I file the teeth down a bit more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Chris-PA]

Isn't the bouncing from the rakers/depth gauges being a hair to low. Chain grabs to deep and the raker pops it correct or no?? Only asking cause I have a habit of takin the rakers to far and it bounces every time until I file the teeth down a bit more.

It could be, but as I indicated above I'm not sure I did that with this chain. There seemed to be something about this cut that was worse than usual, but it was a small log and the saw was revving pretty good - it might have just got to a resonant point of the chain or the A/V system, etc.

 

[Seedling345]

It could be, but as I indicated above I'm not sure I did that with this chain. There seemed to be something about this cut that was worse than usual, but it was a small log and the saw was revving pretty good - it might have just got to a resonant point of the chain or the A/V system, etc.

Read right over that sentence.. oops.. carry on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[backwoodsman42]

Has anyone ran any rotary chain. My local ace hardware carries this brand. It is 20$ for a 24" loop of 3/8-.50. 17$ for 18" 325
I've been running it for about a month. About ten trees for firewood later they haven't stretched much since initial run in or needed sharpening. Still throwing large chips. A friend of mine that works the parts counter convinced me to try a loop of 325. I have been surprised by its performance.

 

[Efisher26]

I really want to try .325, I'll have to get the rim for my clutch and a .325 bar. Is it worth it? Different then 3/8?


-Efisher26-

 

[backwoodsman42]

I usually run 325 on my 50cc or less saws. What size saw are you thinking about running 325 on

 

[svk]

Has anyone ran any rotary chain.

Yes. I got 5 loops of 3/8 pitch 72dl full chisel Rotary brand for about 11 bucks each delivered from Amazon.

Initially it stretches quite a bit. I think I had to tighten it 3 times in the first tank and once more in the second tank. Once that's out it's decent stuff and holds an edge similar to Oregon.

 

[Little Al]

Good eye - yes it was bouncing, and I don't really know why. In truth I did not feel it thanks to the A/V system, but I saw it in the video. Curiously, I have another video (that I never uploaded) taken right after in a larger piece of the same tree, and it does not seem to be doing that as much. It might be because the saw is running at a slightly lower rpm in the larger round - maybe there is some sort of resonance going on, with more vibration due to higher rpm and lighter bars? This bar is cheap and light.

I can post that other vid later if you want, but it isn't too interesting otherwise.

I remember your earlier comments on VXL loops chattering. I have a 68DL loop of VXL on another ported 42cc Poulan and it was very smooth from the factory grind through several filings. Then I used the wrong gauge which set the depth gauges just a little too low, and now it's fairly grabby and bouncy.
And that is a heavier, longer bar. I suppose it is possible that I made the same error on this Tri Link loop.

That's what I was going to ask about, as you had said the cutters were long/longer than VXL Just musing if every thing else is as should be & it still does it the Blount Rep's tip to relieve the rear edge of the cutter would effect a cure as it seems to do on chattering VXL's. As An aside I was in short order need for a 55 DL lo pro chain & the only available was a VXL I got it home & as it wasn't to long a job I fitted it & fired up, it cut fine no chatter etc.so either the loops I had way back had a problem ( which I think probably yes as the rep KNEW of it ) & they v'e now cured it but asking about it they won't admit to a problem

 

[Efisher26]

I usually run 325 on my 50cc or less saws. What size saw are you thinking about running 325 on

60cc, I find it's easier to get .325


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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl

 

[Chris-PA]

That's what I was going to ask about, as you had said the cutters were long/longer than VXL Just musing if every thing else is as should be & it still does it the Blount Rep's tip to relieve the rear edge of the cutter would effect a cure as it seems to do on chattering VXL's. As An aside I was in short order need for a 55 DL lo pro chain & the only available was a VXL I got it home & as it wasn't to long a job I fitted it & fired up, it cut fine no chatter etc.so either the loops I had way back had a problem ( which I think probably yes as the rep KNEW of it ) & they v'e now cured it but asking about it they won't admit to a problem

The VXL, Carlton N1 and TriLink lo pro all have similar long cutters. I use them all and find them to be similar, and have not noticed a vibration issue while cutting except for when I set the depth gauges too low. This particular video of the bouncing TriLink is a bit of a mystery though. It is a loop of their older lo pro design though, so maybe that contributes?

On the other hand I'm not spending long hours with a saw in my hand, so it could just be that I'm not as perceptive when it comes to vibration problems.

 

[Philbert]

Could be the wood?

Philbert