What Knot Do You Use For Pulling Trees Over?

[one2tree]

Pulling a tree with a carabiner
Seems risky , unless you just use then once and retire then

haven't got any photos to post but think about where the carabiner i if you clasp it on trunk facing away from desired direction of fall an redirect over a suitable limb . not allways apropriate tho. 99 pertecnt of the time running bow line is the go too knott

 

[kschuler]

Use the running bowline. With the proper amount of tail, it will not pull through. To be safe add a stopper knot or yosemite tie off. If tied correctly, this knot will always come undone and will never bind. Adjust the size of the pull line to the pulling force.

 

[jefflovstrom]

This has already been answered by wise men...
double running bowline,,,now stop,,
Jeff

 

[treeman75]

No, but I know where he is.
Jeff

Where is he?

 

[one2tree]

easy so set from ground can be undone straight after fell by faller but has a tendancy to become pinnned under the heaviest part of trunk have often put good size limb down to fell onto to keep the butt of the ground an hence rope free to pull out . also found it not all to suitable for larger leaning trees where massive forces need be involved.

 

[one2tree]

i always tell the newbies(green horns)there is no such thing as a dumb question an that they are better of to over whelm me than under whelm me .... clients, foreman an bosses will never complain you did to much work, but will always let you know if it wasn't enough .

 

[no tree to big]

i always tell the newbies(green horns)there is no such thing as a dumb question an that they are better of to over whelm me than under whelm me .... clients, foreman an bosses will never complain you did to much work, but will always let you know if it wasn't enough .

Ha I have a guy that asks me at least 10 times a day "should I cut this log"? We cut all logs on site 6 to 8 feet for our tub grinder back at the shop and every day I have to tell him the machine has not gotten any bigger and we will continue to cut them every single day [emoji36]

 

[TaoTreeClimber]

You can never go wrong with a running b0wline.

 

[Jack Abbott]

Couldn't have said it any better. The Bowline is prone to fail when loaded and unloaded numerous times. The family of 8's when tied right has little to no slop in it. When lowering and hoisting tools a figure 8 on a bite or a clove hitch with some half hitches holds everything. I am a rope tech instructor at my department. And I try not to teach the Bowline the only reason why I do is because my company makes us. But like we said its 2 different industries. I was just throwin out some different points of views due 2+2=4 but so does 3+1. There's a million ways to skin a cat find what works best for you and what your comfy with and stick with it.

I like the cross over of the industries here, always good to get other perspectives, I agree with you on the bowline not being a good life line knot, I think most arborists have retired it and use either a double fishermans or anchor bend.. Having said that, if your pulling trees with it then you should only be loading it once, as long as it is dressed properly it shouldn't slip, it is a really good knot for being able to undo after a heavy load, for pulling a choked off rope with a vehicle or 5-1 I personally use a bowline with a bight, which gives the bend a larger radius (the marlin spike way where you thread the bight through then fold it over itself, this method allows you to tie it midline also). I've had regular bowlines cinch up on me after extreme loads and no one wants to take a screwdriver to their beloved rigging rope

 

[DLCRL]

Well if I climb up to set it I like a running bowline w/a wrap, so it won't cinch tight, however if I want to triangulate because there's nothing in the center of the tree to tie on to. Because the tree whys in 2 directions, I put the rope through two equal crotches and tie a bowline w/a stick in it so it won't cinch. If it does, break the stick now you've slack to work with. However if you use throw bag to set it high, use a long rope once through the crotch take the end coming down. Wrap it around the trunk making a Marline half hitch and finish w/a timber hitch above the notch.

 

[DLCRL]

As far as tying off to a vehicle, truck, small skid steer etc I just use a port-a-wrap.

 

[DLCRL]

You can never go wrong with a running b0wline.

Bowline and Timber hitch are my bread and butter for roping limbs and block wood down.

 

[treesmith]

For climbing where the tying in point is being advanced/thrown as the climber ascends, a bowline is an excellent choice.
It's easy to tie, it's easy to untie, it is stable once loaded if you dont let it flop about and actually pay attention to how it looks.
I tend not to use it for a termination knot now only because I've gone over to permanent spliced eyes.
Great for rigging/securing

 

[woodchuck357]

I have been using bowlin as my go to knot for many decades and have done alot of testing, after hundreds of cycles of loading and unloading have NEVER been able to get a properly tied and set bowlin to work loose.
All of the examples I have seen where they were able to get one to come loose were so loosely tied that they should not have been called knots.

 

[DLCRL]

If you think it might cinch up just take a wrap or 2, I've taken huge pieces but if the knot is only keeping the tail from unwinding you can untie it w/ease.

 

[mattfr12]

I have pulled on a running bowline 3/4 rope with a cable skider and the knot has never failed the rope has always broken before the knot. I had to pull a bunch of oak trunks out of a valley and used old 3/4 stable braid I had attached to a skider, because the winch cable fell a little short. Rope broke once the old bowline or double bowline is bullet proof if tied correctly.

 

[millbilly]

Six pages, and nobody and I mean none of you have even mentioned 2 of my favorites The unforgettable dragon bowline or the hatchet knot. I personally prefer the hatch knot over the dragon bowline. I don't get to pull the ole hatchet out and use it enough.