What makes the MS 261 better than the 346 XP?

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Thread has gotten so long I have forgotten if you responded before. Forgive me if you have. If not, what's your take on the 346...not only in vibes, but over all compared to the 261?

By all accounts my Husky 353 is the same as a 346XP apart from a few engine tricks etc but the 261 is noticably smoother than my 353.
In saying that though both are very smooth and without running them side by side one after the other you'd never know :cheers:
My Dolmar 5100-S is also pretty handy with it's lack of vibes.
 
You don't need a tach to tune the saw. They are nice to have just to fiddle with. The rev limited coil on the 346 limits the rpm of the saw to 14,300rpm thats what was stamped on mine anyway. No matter how lean you tune the high side the saw won't turn faster than where the coil limits out. For most situations you should be well shy of that while the saw is working with a proper tune, and short of holding the throttle wide open no load you likely won't ever turn the saw that fast. The limited coils can make it more difficult to hear where the saw begins to 4-stroke and where it hits the limit of the coil while tuning. If you combine a couple of the tactics mentioned in some of the tuning threads you should manage OK on an unmodded saw. You can pick up a non-limited(black) coil for pretty cheap if you think you need one or want to mod the saw. Most of the 3xx era Husky saws share the same coil, though you might need to swap wires in some cases. There are some great how to threads on tuning a carb and I'm sure the wav sound file from Madsens can be found in many other threads. The first thing that I would do before worrying about the tach or coil would be to make sure you have a non-cat muffler if you go with the 346. Bottom line is get the saw that YOU like, no doubt either of the two are more than up to near any task no mods required. Good luck!

Thank you!

From years past with motox, weedeaters and saws, I think of myself as being able to satisfactorily tune by sound and the color of the plug. I just wasn't familiar with these limited coils and the effects they had on these methods.

At any rate, your response was very helpful.

Regardless of which saw I get, I would like to open the muffler a bit for optimal performance....and of course, the satisfaction of tinkering. Am I reading correctly that, if I got a 346 and did the muffler mod, I'd need a non-limited coil?
 
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Am I reading correctly that, if I got a 346 and did the muffler mod, I'd need a non-limited coil?

No

Please, I'm begging you, just go buy a saw. Anyone who over thinks this much is going to wish he had bought the other saw no matter what, anyway.

I'm unsubscribing. Would somebody PM in the next few months (or years) when he makes a decision? I have a morbid curiosity how this will finally all turn out.
 
No

Please, I'm begging you, just go buy a saw. Anyone who over thinks this much is going to wish he had bought the other saw no matter what, anyway.

I'm unsubscribing. Would somebody PM in the next few months (or years) when he makes a decision? I have a morbid curiosity how this will finally all turn out.

:agree2: This is going too far.....
 
:agree2: This is going too far.....

I agree, but it's like the wreck on the other side of the road; you just can't help but look.

Rustyze, ol' pal, here is my final stab at distilling it down for you-

346- probably better handling, lighter and definitely a zinger. Controls are as reliable as they come and easy to operate. Vibes??? What vibes??? Modern 50cc saws don't have any to speak of. It needs a MM and an unlimited coil to really shine. The coil is $30 and 10 minutes. The MM----depends on skill and tools- figure an hour.....you send me the muffler and pay for shipping, and I will mod it for you.
It is like a custom tailored suit; you won't realize what you have in your hands.

261- better filtration (not that I have ever seen a problem with the 346's), probably smoother, maybe a broader torque curve, and will probably make you very happy if you never limb with a 346. Doesn't need a coil swap (you CAN do without an unlimited coil on the 346 if you know how to tune in the cut). Will benefit from a MM. COSTS more.

Now, just close your eyes and jump!
 
I understand wanting to get a good deal and save some money, with all this time invested in this thread you could have prolly already found a really good saw. I don't know if you mentioned how much you cut, but if you aren't cutting all the time or more than 10 cords a year, there really isn't a big deal about these saws. I understand it is fun to nitpick em but like people have said before, the most important thing is a sharp chain. A guy with a poulan with a razor sharp chain could outcut a 372 with a dull one. If you are really so frugal, you need to find a good used saw. I got a great condition Stihl 036 on craigslist with 160 psi compression for 50 bucks because the guy could not start it because he had the carb tuned wrong. Obviously this kind of deal is rare but there are a bunch of guys that have found deals like this. This is where you should be trying to save money.
 
This actually made me laugh out loud.:laugh:

This whole thread makes me laugh out loud.

I lurk all the time here, but I don't usually contribute. This one is so bizarre, though, I just couldn't help myself. Only thing worse than this is shopping with the old lady for new jeans.

25 pages on deciding between two basically identical saws?! :bang: You coulda got a job delivering papers in the time you spent agonizing over this, and then you'd be able to buy both and have Brad hot rod them for you to boot.

I'll tell you which one of the two in question that I got and couldn't be happier with... after you buy one for yourself. In the meantime I'll go watch some paint dry.
 
This whole thread makes me laugh out loud.

I lurk all the time here, but I don't usually contribute. This one is so bizarre, though, I just couldn't help myself. Only thing worse than this is shopping with the old lady for new jeans.

25 pages on deciding between two basically identical saws?! :bang: You coulda got a job delivering papers in the time you spent agonizing over this, and then you'd be able to buy both and have Brad hot rod them for you to boot.

I'll tell you which one of the two in question that I got and couldn't be happier with... after you buy one for yourself. In the meantime I'll go watch some paint dry.

Even more bizarre than a guy keen to learn is those who feel compelled to complain that a thread is too long...a thread they don't even have to read. Now that's bizarre!:msp_wink:
 
Even more bizarre than a guy keen to learn is those who feel compelled to complain that a thread is too long...a thread they don't even have to read. Now that's bizarre!:msp_wink:

Hell, I ain't complaining. I didn't even read 95% of it. Like I said, I think it's pretty funny. I just keep going to the end, looking for the punch line to appear.

I'm keen to learn as well. Most of the time, I keep my ears open and my mouth shut. I fail to see how the kinds of questions you're asking are useful in helping you make an informed decision. The best minds here have already given you their best answers, but they seem weary at this point. I'd expect the well will dry up soon for you, and all you did was confuse yourself more.

I read someplace how those ultra smart yuppies research a thing to death looking for the very best product, but in the end they suffer from information overload and usually end up making a hasty and arbitrary choice when it come time to actually purchase the goods. They are usually disappointed in their choice, which is what I thing Wendell was hinting at.

Best way is to just try as many saws as possible, even ones you're not considering. The right saw will speak to you loud and clear. It might even be in a whole different class than you think you want to own.

Hey, just a thought... maybe we can make this thread into another sticky to scroll down past to get to the current stuff. You can never have too many stickies IMHO.
 
All things being equal faster chain speed equals faster cutting but you are correct in some cases.
For example my modded 660 vs. a stock 660 showed very little cutting speed improvement despite the modded saw pulling 2,000 more rpm in the cut (both saws fitted with tachos). Lean into it and it's a different story.

Good saws like Stihls and Echos??? :D They are good saws but no better than Huskies or Dolmars etc etc.

Oh and by the way with a good chain and some decent load that modded 660 has no dramas pulling 12,000rpm in the cut whilst cutting very very fast. And it was built by Sir Snelling as well :)

Saw ported by B snelling might cut the fastest at 12000 RPM in the cut not stock or muff modded saws, thats going to be around 9000 to 9500 RPM and any fasters HP and torque fall off fast. 50 cc Stihls and Echo saws have a way wider powerband than most 50cc Huskys, they keep on pulling when Huskys fall flat on thier face. Don't know about Dolmars but if the 5100 can pull a 3/8 chain it must have good torque also. Steve
 
Hey, don't beat yourself up because you're failing to see "how the kinds of questions I'M asking are useful in helping ME make an informed decision". I mean, how on earth would you know what would help ME or not?? I appreciate that we're all a little different. :msp_wink:

Back to the topic on hand. Thanks for the advice. I know full well that the 346 or 261 is what I want and need though. I'd try them in a heart beat if someone around here had them to try (I even posted). So, my choices were to just buy with little research and risk being unhappy...like I did w/ my 260, or I can ask questions here (like I've done) to make a more informed choice. Don't fret just because someone's method is different than yours:msp_smile:.

.....and don't worry. The punch line will come, if you're really that interested. After all the thoughtful help here (even had some very cool dudes PM me with help), I've realized which saw will suit ME best.

:peace:



I fail to see how the kinds of questions you're asking are useful in helping you make an informed decision. The best minds here have already given you their best answers, but they seem weary at this point. I'd expect the well will dry up soon for you, and all you did was confuse yourself more.

I read someplace how those ultra smart yuppies research a thing to death looking for the very best product, but in the end they suffer from information overload and usually end up making a hasty and arbitrary choice when it come time to actually purchase the goods. They are usually disappointed in their choice, which is what I thing Wendell was hinting at.

Best way is to just try as many saws as possible, even ones you're not considering. The right saw will speak to you loud and clear. It might even be in a whole different class than you think you want to own.
IMHO.
 
I made the decision for him today. I bought a new Stihl 261 with an 18" bar and chain. I got the hook up from the Stihl dealer $450 out the door.

Scott

That's great. I'm always at the wrong place at the wrong time. My Dealer didn't have the 261, or any pro saws, so I took the 270 for what you gave. Your Dealer must like you.:clap:
 
drum rollllllllllllllllll...........................and the answer is??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????....uh, I'm still waiting, and waiting......
 

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