Winchester356
ArboristSite Operative
Would it do ok?
There is almost no combination of bar and chain that can't be readily found. So why would you want to do this? It obviously isn't right. What advantage could there be?
I think you will discover in fact that you have a difficult time making it cut straight with the chain flopping in the groove.
Mark
I found a good deal on .058 guage bar but no chain included and my dealer ( or any other dealer close by) does not have .058 guage chain.
I doubt that you will notice any difference.
I had a .058 bar on a used chainsaw and no one around here stocked .058 .325 chain. So I ran .050 on the chainsaw until I came across a nice used .050 bar.
Shouldn't the drive be changed also?
I wouldn't make a habit of it but if you had to do it in a pinch it's fine. I've actually bought at least two saws used that had 050 in an 058 bar, and the chains were well worn.
If you think about it, you may have poorer quality oiling, especially with some of the more advanced chains that have oilomatic or lubrilink channels that essentially wick the oil up toward the chain by some sort of channel that might rely on the oil being sort of held or trapped by the bar rails. If there's a huge gap here then chain speed alone might not be sufficient and your chain might not oil as well. Your chain may also chatter or wander more when starting a cut (especially in smaller material)
Over time my guess is you'd have greater wear on both the rails and the chain.
I just wouldn't make a habit of it. In a pinch it should be fine but chains and bars are cheap enough that its not worth fussing with too much.
Just what constitutes a "broken in bar"?A lot of the bars on our race saws are
63 gauge and we run a 58 gauge chain
on them. It takes a long time to break
in a bar. I would run a new 50 gauge
chain on a new 58 gauge bar.For a short
time until the bar broke in!!
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