what would you reccomend??

[Tofer76]

as I am new to this site and to saws in general I have a couple questions.

first off let me tell you what I got

1. stihl MS250, bought new in 2012, with a man. date of 12/2011,
18 inch bar # 3005 008 4717 .325 mm
groove width of .063
68 drive link

2. stihl 017, bought used 2013, w/ a man. date of 01/09
14 inch bar #3005 000 3909
the rest is worn off

3. trimmer plus polesaw attachment for my string trimmer
that takes a 8 inch chain # r34
34 drive link, 3/8th pitch .43 gauge,

im trying to figure out what chains to buy for each saw and am trying to learn how to sharpen my own as well

I have a Oregon 511a electric sharpener but have no idea how to use it yet

so could you guys help a complete newbie out in selection and tips??
thanks

 

[bcaarms]

Stihl guys will tell you what chain to get. Go to you tube and watch a couple of videos of people using your same type grinder. Its not difficult. But can be until you watch someone make it seem simple.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpd2w4N0nzM

 

[showrguy]

one of your neighbors will be along soon to give you some guidence....

be patient....gwasshoppaaa

 

[w8ye]

I have a 250 and a 026. I use the Stihl yellow chains and not the green ones.

 

[Casey Johnson]

For chains, I would recommend either Stihl or Oregon. I like Oregon the best, personally. Just make sure that they are not "low-kickback" chains. The 017 is more than likely going to run a 3/8" Picco .43 gauge. Picco just means "mini". As for sharpening, I would recommend that you get some good files, such as Still or Save Edge. Go to your local dealer, and have them teach you how to properly hand sharpen your chain. Reason being is, it is fairly easy to ruin a chain with an electric sharpener, if you don't know what you are doing. If the chain gets too hot, it will be nearly impossible to hand sharpen it ever again. Hope this helps some!

 

[machinisttx]

The important info is pitch, gage, and drive link count. For your MS250 as an example, that's .325", .063", and 68. Beyond that breaks down further to safety chain(generally has green on either the package or one of the links) or non safety chain(generally has yellow on the package or one of the links). There are also two types of cutters, one is chisel and the other is semi chisel.

Safety chain is less likely to kick back when the bar nose touches something. Chisel chain cuts a little faster, but won't stay sharp as long as semi chisel in "dirty" wood.

 

[MindFork]

Good Oregon chain for your 250: Amazon.com: Oregon 22BPX068G Micro-Chisel Saw Chain .325-Inch Pitch .063-Inch Gauge 68 Drive Link Count: Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[mainewoods]

If you don't already have some be sure you get some good PPE before you cut anything. Dropping that 250 down to a 16" bar would be a good start. Welcome to AS!

 

[Tofer76]

after doing some more digging ive found some chains for the 250

stihl 26rm368
stihl 26rs 68

Oregon 22bpx68
22lpx068g
L68

now as for semi chisel or full chisel whats the diff?

still doing digging

 

[DarkTimber]

after doing some more digging ive found some chains for the 250

stihl 26rm368
stihl 26rs 68

Oregon 22bpx68
22lpx068g
L68

now as for semi chisel or full chisel whats the diff?

still doing digging

Full chisel will have a square corner and a sharp point, semi chisel will have a radiused corner and a rounded point full chisel works best in clean green wood, semi chisel is better in dry or dirty wood

 

[HuskStihl]

The bad news is you're prolly just gonna have to try some stuff to see what works best for you. The good news is that's usually pretty fun. What I run vs what a real pro runs vs what you need may be different. This may sound mean, and I don't intend it that way, but you prolly wouldn't notice a difference between Stihl vs Oregon, chisel vs semi-chisel. Learning to sharpen is more important for performance than chain selection. I agree to learn angles with hand files before hitting the electric. Welcome aboard

 

[Tofer76]

well id like to have a reference of what chain type and such to use and when
I plan on learning to hand file first before going electric

also need to learn the diff types and terms
semi chisel ,full chisel, kerf? and all that such lol
as I said im just starting out

 

[Guido Salvage]

I think both the Stihl and Oregon websites have chain guides. I was able to find the one for Stihl but seem to have lost the link to the Oregon site.

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf

 

[CTYank]

IMHO, a chain grinder is only for use after "rocking" a chain, to enable the chain to be filed in reasonable time.
For the filing, a guide like Granberg's is way superior to free-hand filing or filing with a guide that merely sits on top of a tooth. BTDT. Many filing kits are simply kludges of stuff to get lost.
For chain filing, consistency and precision count, for a lot. You are talking CHAINsaw.

 

[Tofer76]

what about carlton chains? easy to get? does anyone have the part numbers for the saws I have?

 

[apn73]

If the chain gets too hot, it will be nearly impossible to hand sharpen it ever again.

Amen, and amen. Hand sharpening is a lot less money, is arguably better and you'll get more life out of the chain. These points are especially true considering your experience level, a little too long with the grinding wheel and you'll ruin the chain, doesn't mean you can't learn if you've got your heart set on an electric grinder. 18" bar and .325 pitch chain is a bit much for an ms250, as Mainewoods said above, you may want to back it down to a 16" guide bar.

 

[eat a peach]

Welcome to AS

A lot of good help here on this site. As far as carlton chain ,I like it in a narrow kerf ,which is the width of the chain tooth.
I believe site sponsor Baileys has a sale on their brand of Carlton chain called woodland pro. I run the .325 narrow kerf on my ms250 as well as my 346xps. You can pick up pretty good deals on replacement bars there too. I believe they are made(arbor pro and woodland pro) by Blount . They also make Oregon bars.

 

[HuskStihl]

what about carlton chains? easy to get? does anyone have the part numbers for the saws I have?

You need to get on Bailey's and use their chain selection tools. All chain is "fine" when sharpened properly. Just match the number of drive links, the gauge and the pitch. I would start with a semi-chisel as a starting point and see how you like it with the 250

 

[Tofer76]

Amen, and amen. Hand sharpening is a lot less money, is arguably better and you'll get more life out of the chain. These points are especially true considering your experience level, a little too long with the grinding wheel and you'll ruin the chain, doesn't mean you can't learn if you've got your heart set on an electric grinder. 18" bar and .325 pitch chain is a bit much for an ms250, as Mainewoods said above, you may want to back it down to a 16" guide bar.

I only have my heart set on a elect cuz I already have one but I want to learn to hand sharpen first
and the 18 in bar and .325 came on the saw

 

[apn73]

I only have my heart set on a elect cuz I already have one but I want to learn to hand sharpen first
and the 18 in bar and .325 came on the saw

Understood. Stihl sometimes can go a little far with marketing and put bars and chains on saws that shouldn't be using them. It's always good idea to have a spare bar around, buy and use a 16" b&c's and keep the 18 in spare, but I understand why you wouldn't want to. I just had to shelve my plans for buying a back-up saw because I just had a bunch of car and equipment troubles.